banditoamigo

Some asked in my previous post about how the boost gauge is mounted/installed in my car. Here's a bit more detail.

First, here's where the <a href="http://prosportgauges.com/premium_series_peak_warning_gauges.aspx"> $80 ProSport gauge </a>is mounted. All you need to do is pop the vent out at the front and drill a 3/8" hole at the back of the vent location to run the wires. Note that the ProSport gauge includes the mounting cup, visor and double-sided tape that you'll need to mimic my install.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/77805/boost-gauge.jpg">

Under the hood, you just need to tap into a boost/vacuum line using the supplied tee and vacuum hose. I chose to tap into the fuel sender module's line (some discussion on if this is the best line to tap, but it's the easiest to find, snip and insert the tee). I also ran the hose into the battery compartment and mounted the control module/sender for the boost gauge to the ECU box to keep it cool and dry. There's a nice grommet you can use to get into the battery compartment, and another nice little grommet/plug leading into the firewall just to the right of the battery.

Here's the details under the hood:

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/77805/boost-guage-routing.jpg">

Other than that it's pretty simple -- just follow the instructions that came with the gauge (they're hacked up English from China, and a bit cryptic): Red goes to battery lead, black to ground, white/orange go to switched source and/or light switch (the gauge can change color when you turn on your lights -- handy as the white gauge face is pretty bright at night).

Other tips: Run the wiring from the firewall into the cabin by completely removing the triangle-shaped plug and using a coat-hanger wire to fish the wire down to where you can reach it. Same goes for the access from the vent pocket to the fuse box next to the driver's side door.

And one final word of caution -- make sure you use new boost line hose where you tap into the line -- when I tapped it the first time I ended up making a small hole in the line, and it caused the car to go into limp mode and run lean b/c the fuel sender wasn't getting the right amount of boost to adjust correctly. It may be better to tap into the line under the Y-Pipe, the only drawback there being that you have to remove the pipe to get to the line.

There you go! Easy-peasy :-)

hockeypuck

thanks for the write up.

Rally_nutcase_1982

Perhaps poxy a small bolt into the gauge's bottom plate and tighten it with a nut from below.....I'm concerned that the tape might give way (heat/cold/heat...etc) at that location.

Thanks for sharing, nice write up and good pictures!

banditoamigo

If I use velcro I can just unplug the gauge and pop the vent back in place (like when I'm parked at the airport and don't want to call any attention to myself), or when I'm going to the dealer, not that I have any notion of fooling anybody that I'm stock anymore :-)

It's extremely tight under the vent with all the electronic stuff above the fuse box, so I doubt I'd be able to get anything in from below. May be worth using a short self-tapping screw to hold it in, but really with the wires plugged into the back and snaked through a hole, and the gauge itself sitting inside the vent, gravity takes care of most of it and the tape is just there to keep it from bouncing around ;-)

GarageGuy05

Good stuff...mucho obliged.

Allroad_RS27

cool! I like the final result!

tb02ar2.7T

This would eliminate any wobble or vibration associated with the loose mount.

I had previously used standard velcro to mount my iceLink cable to my ProClip. I could just slip my Nano on the interface cable without any actual contact between the iPod and the ProClip. This worked, but the iPod would lean one way or the other if it got off center. I replaced the velcro with dual lock and now it can support a full size iPod without any trouble.