MODSHACK.....OIL cooler in and leak free!!......
10-06-2002, 12:50 PM
#1
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MODSHACK.....OIL cooler in and leak free!!......
<center><img src="http://images.fotki.com/v9/photos/7/7305/152444/DSCF0034-or.jpg"></center><p>
We're operational and leak free right out of the box! The logic of using 195 degree coolant to "cool" the oil of the 1.8 escapes me. The stock water box cooler is a known failure point (oil and water don't mix).Numerous failures reported over on Vortex and a few here. Oil globs in your overflow tank is the clue. The real solution is an efficient, stacked plate outboard cooler. Here's a quick summary of the install...Pics are at the fotki link below to support the text...
1) Remove the nose (not really necessary, but I had to remove my IC fans, run some wiring, and it made access easier!)
2) Remove all plastic under the car: Undertray, left and right skirts.
3) Mount new Cooler in the right side lower inlet. This will require fabricating a bracket. Mount optional fan if this is to be used
4) Remove IC cross tube (225 models)for access
5) Remove oil filter, drain oil
6) Drain coolant
7) Get up in there with pliers and remove the spring clips and coolant hoses to the stock oil "heater" (be prepared for an antifreeze shower if you haven't drained enough coolant....ask me how I know!). Plug these lines with the bypass plugs.
8) With a 27mm socket, remove the nut holding the waterbox on, wiggle the box off, then remove the 4 inch pipe nipple with a set of vice grips.
9) Cut the nipple (you no longer have 3 inches of OEM cooler there) and set up the sandwhich plate for installation.
10) lube the O ring and Put the sandwich plate in place and tighten with a 1 1/8 socket.
11) Measure and make up the Aeroquipt braided oil lines
12) hook up lines, install new filter, refill with 6 quarts oil (Yes, 6!), Top up coolant, cross your fingers and start her up.
If your lucky, you'll have no leaks. In a few minutes you'll start to feel warmth at the cooler "in" feed. A few more and it will be darned hot. Test the fan for cool down. If all looks good, put the car back together. Total time spent on this was about 7 hours for reference. While I do not have an oil temp gauge, Marcus found some info that should give some indication of it's effectiveness from an A4 guy:
Results: (this is from someone elses A4)
Old idle oil temp = 200
Old normal driving oil temp = 210
Old very aggressive street driving temps = 230
Old track temps = 255
Mocal equipped idle oil temp = 200 (I can watch it rise after coming to a light
)
Mocal equipped normal driving oil temp = 180
Mocal equipped very aggressive street driving temp = 180-185
Mocal equipped track temps = I anticipate approx. 195 at the most
Pretty impressive huh? That's a 25-30 degree drop minimum to a 45-50 (!!!!) degree drop with aggressive driving!
That's it! I'll work up a parts list, but total for everything is about $175 ($250 with fan). Not for the faint of heart, install wise. Proceed at your own risk as always...
One (ok, 2) caveats.....You can't do this exact install unless you're running an FMIC. Stock 180's could go in the left grill, stock 225's in the center lower grill). Your car (and turbo) will like you for this (and live longer as a result).......(my car likes me a lot if how she runs is any indication....:-)
Steve<ul><li><a href="http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/oil_cooler/">Oil Cooler install</a></li></ul>
We're operational and leak free right out of the box! The logic of using 195 degree coolant to "cool" the oil of the 1.8 escapes me. The stock water box cooler is a known failure point (oil and water don't mix).Numerous failures reported over on Vortex and a few here. Oil globs in your overflow tank is the clue. The real solution is an efficient, stacked plate outboard cooler. Here's a quick summary of the install...Pics are at the fotki link below to support the text...
1) Remove the nose (not really necessary, but I had to remove my IC fans, run some wiring, and it made access easier!)
2) Remove all plastic under the car: Undertray, left and right skirts.
3) Mount new Cooler in the right side lower inlet. This will require fabricating a bracket. Mount optional fan if this is to be used
4) Remove IC cross tube (225 models)for access
5) Remove oil filter, drain oil
6) Drain coolant
7) Get up in there with pliers and remove the spring clips and coolant hoses to the stock oil "heater" (be prepared for an antifreeze shower if you haven't drained enough coolant....ask me how I know!). Plug these lines with the bypass plugs.
8) With a 27mm socket, remove the nut holding the waterbox on, wiggle the box off, then remove the 4 inch pipe nipple with a set of vice grips.
9) Cut the nipple (you no longer have 3 inches of OEM cooler there) and set up the sandwhich plate for installation.
10) lube the O ring and Put the sandwich plate in place and tighten with a 1 1/8 socket.
11) Measure and make up the Aeroquipt braided oil lines
12) hook up lines, install new filter, refill with 6 quarts oil (Yes, 6!), Top up coolant, cross your fingers and start her up.
If your lucky, you'll have no leaks. In a few minutes you'll start to feel warmth at the cooler "in" feed. A few more and it will be darned hot. Test the fan for cool down. If all looks good, put the car back together. Total time spent on this was about 7 hours for reference. While I do not have an oil temp gauge, Marcus found some info that should give some indication of it's effectiveness from an A4 guy:
Results: (this is from someone elses A4)
Old idle oil temp = 200
Old normal driving oil temp = 210
Old very aggressive street driving temps = 230
Old track temps = 255
Mocal equipped idle oil temp = 200 (I can watch it rise after coming to a light
) Mocal equipped normal driving oil temp = 180
Mocal equipped very aggressive street driving temp = 180-185
Mocal equipped track temps = I anticipate approx. 195 at the most
Pretty impressive huh? That's a 25-30 degree drop minimum to a 45-50 (!!!!) degree drop with aggressive driving!
That's it! I'll work up a parts list, but total for everything is about $175 ($250 with fan). Not for the faint of heart, install wise. Proceed at your own risk as always...
One (ok, 2) caveats.....You can't do this exact install unless you're running an FMIC. Stock 180's could go in the left grill, stock 225's in the center lower grill). Your car (and turbo) will like you for this (and live longer as a result).......(my car likes me a lot if how she runs is any indication....:-)
Steve<ul><li><a href="http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/oil_cooler/">Oil Cooler install</a></li></ul>
10-06-2002, 01:02 PM
#7
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excellent! i *must* have one!!
oh, and thanks a lot for the play by play and the photos -- i don't think i'd have the nerve to dive in without your help.
and before i forget to ask... where did the fans come from, and where should i put an oil temp sensor in the grand scheme of things (or should i even bother)?
and before i forget to ask... where did the fans come from, and where should i put an oil temp sensor in the grand scheme of things (or should i even bother)?
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10-06-2002, 01:05 PM
#8
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You mention "plugging" the coolant lines - I am gonna assume that there is one in and one out
could you also connect them together? Looks great Steve and I can attest to those oil temps on my A4.
10-06-2002, 01:10 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
I suppose you could....>>
I got the info from Hall motorsports who supplied the plugs (1.8 technique). You could also spice them together as I believe this is just a non-critical water feed system.
10-06-2002, 01:12 PM
#10
AudiWorld Uber User
Thread Starter
Parts list:
From http://www.racerpartswholesale.com
(1) 3/4 x 16 sandwich plate
(2) FCM-2622 AN10 to 3/8 90 degree adaptors@$6.52
(2) FCM-2627 AN10 to 1/2 90 degree adaptors@$5.60
(4) FCM-1014 AN10 straight connectors@$7.47
(7 ft) AN10 FBA1000 hose@$5.65 ft
(1) TRU-l7B oil cooler@$44.95
(1) Spal 6/5 inch puller fan (optional)@$75
From Home Depot:
(1) 3/8 pipe thread "T"
(1) Plug for future sensor access
(2) 5/8 brass plugs for the water lines
(1) 3/4 x 16 sandwich plate
(2) FCM-2622 AN10 to 3/8 90 degree adaptors@$6.52
(2) FCM-2627 AN10 to 1/2 90 degree adaptors@$5.60
(4) FCM-1014 AN10 straight connectors@$7.47
(7 ft) AN10 FBA1000 hose@$5.65 ft
(1) TRU-l7B oil cooler@$44.95
(1) Spal 6/5 inch puller fan (optional)@$75
From Home Depot:
(1) 3/8 pipe thread "T"
(1) Plug for future sensor access
(2) 5/8 brass plugs for the water lines