Sigh - New K-MAC Camber & APR R1 DV parts fail on install
#1
Sigh - New K-MAC Camber & APR R1 DV parts fail on install
I haven't made any modifications to my car in a while - I've been happy with the current setup and been focusing more on driving technique then masking my shortcomings with horsepower or other mods But driving home after my last track day on the big track at Willow Springs (finally broke into 1:38's!) I heard a new noise coming from the turbo area and discovered some the studs from the elbow downturn to the exhaust had sheared. I also found I had corded the outside edges of my front NT01s (granted they have about 4 track days on them but other than the edges could have gone a couple more days given the rest of the rubber and compared to the rears).
So I decided to finally pull the trigger and ordered the K-MAC front camber kit for my TT (part 141016) since the car was going into the shop anyway. And while I was ordering rear brake pads at ECS I saw they had the new R1 diverters from APR, so, being a total sucker for DV upgrades (I've had like 5), I ordered one of those too.
I was initially a little disappointed when I opened up the K-MAC kit; I expected it to look like the ones pictured on their website, with markings for "at the track" adjustments. Instead it looks a lot like a stock shock tower mount, albeit made of urethane instead of rubber and having adjustment capability (but adjustments that need to be made during an actual alignment). At first I was just going to return the kit, but I showed it to my mechanic and he thought it would give me what I wanted (at least -2 degrees camber) and thought it looked pretty solid. So I decide to go ahead.
Everything went fine with the initial install; the kit went on, the alignment was made, and then as the tech was torquing down the final nut to lock the assembly in place (60 ft/lbs per the supplied instructions) the stud snapped right off. I think the key contributor is the "stud" is a hollow shaft. The email I got back from K-MAC in Australia is that they left that open so folks could get to adjustable shock settings (I use H&R Springs coilovers, no adjustments). They've "never" had anyone else every report this problem, however they stated that they are getting rid of the hollow stud with the next rev (being shown at SEMA) instead going with a solid one.
It may be I got the "only one" that was defective, but if it gave up under torque I decided I wasn't going to leave it on my car to fail at the track, so rather than replace it I had them uninstalled and went back to stock (nothing like paying labor to uninstall/install your coilovers twice and two alignments to end up stock ...).
And it probably really is me - I have the worst luck with parts. Case in point - APRs R1 Diverter. Reading their copy on the website you'd think this thing was nearly indestructible. Well, mine managed to fail after 5 miles. Since my tech was doing the exhaust (which, btw, needed the broken studs lasered out of the elbow) and the K-MAC install he graciously offered to install the diverter while he was at it, free of charge (I don't know about you, but I absolutely hate installing a DV given its position in my car with the APR stage III kit, just a total pain in the ***). So after picking the car up from the shop I'm driving home and all is well. I'm cruising down the highway and start playing with the throttle generating some boost, and suddenly the power's off and the gauge isn't reading higher than 10 psi. Then it starts making a weird moaning sound under load and the boost is totally erratic.
So when I get home I pull the DV and sure enough, the metal "button" seal that should be attached to the bottom of the diaphragm is floating around inside the DV. So, back to one of my piston DVs (decided to put the Forge in as it had been the least used) and the car is running perfectly. Again, I probably got the 1 of a 1000 that will fail, but if it goes bad that fast I'm not getting a replacement to see if it does it again. Refund.
So, 0 for 2 this week on new stuff and I have to go through the hassle of returning everything. But at least the car is ready to go for this weekend's event at Buttonwillow
So I decided to finally pull the trigger and ordered the K-MAC front camber kit for my TT (part 141016) since the car was going into the shop anyway. And while I was ordering rear brake pads at ECS I saw they had the new R1 diverters from APR, so, being a total sucker for DV upgrades (I've had like 5), I ordered one of those too.
I was initially a little disappointed when I opened up the K-MAC kit; I expected it to look like the ones pictured on their website, with markings for "at the track" adjustments. Instead it looks a lot like a stock shock tower mount, albeit made of urethane instead of rubber and having adjustment capability (but adjustments that need to be made during an actual alignment). At first I was just going to return the kit, but I showed it to my mechanic and he thought it would give me what I wanted (at least -2 degrees camber) and thought it looked pretty solid. So I decide to go ahead.
Everything went fine with the initial install; the kit went on, the alignment was made, and then as the tech was torquing down the final nut to lock the assembly in place (60 ft/lbs per the supplied instructions) the stud snapped right off. I think the key contributor is the "stud" is a hollow shaft. The email I got back from K-MAC in Australia is that they left that open so folks could get to adjustable shock settings (I use H&R Springs coilovers, no adjustments). They've "never" had anyone else every report this problem, however they stated that they are getting rid of the hollow stud with the next rev (being shown at SEMA) instead going with a solid one.
It may be I got the "only one" that was defective, but if it gave up under torque I decided I wasn't going to leave it on my car to fail at the track, so rather than replace it I had them uninstalled and went back to stock (nothing like paying labor to uninstall/install your coilovers twice and two alignments to end up stock ...).
And it probably really is me - I have the worst luck with parts. Case in point - APRs R1 Diverter. Reading their copy on the website you'd think this thing was nearly indestructible. Well, mine managed to fail after 5 miles. Since my tech was doing the exhaust (which, btw, needed the broken studs lasered out of the elbow) and the K-MAC install he graciously offered to install the diverter while he was at it, free of charge (I don't know about you, but I absolutely hate installing a DV given its position in my car with the APR stage III kit, just a total pain in the ***). So after picking the car up from the shop I'm driving home and all is well. I'm cruising down the highway and start playing with the throttle generating some boost, and suddenly the power's off and the gauge isn't reading higher than 10 psi. Then it starts making a weird moaning sound under load and the boost is totally erratic.
So when I get home I pull the DV and sure enough, the metal "button" seal that should be attached to the bottom of the diaphragm is floating around inside the DV. So, back to one of my piston DVs (decided to put the Forge in as it had been the least used) and the car is running perfectly. Again, I probably got the 1 of a 1000 that will fail, but if it goes bad that fast I'm not getting a replacement to see if it does it again. Refund.
So, 0 for 2 this week on new stuff and I have to go through the hassle of returning everything. But at least the car is ready to go for this weekend's event at Buttonwillow
#2
uggh...that's my luck too. Don't think either of those parts have had many good experiences here.
I know lots here use the KMAC rear, but not so much the front, IIRC. I'm not sure that anyone has reported trouble free performance from the R1 DV. Better luck next time?
Enjoy the track day!
Rich
Enjoy the track day!
Rich
#3
AudiWorld Super User
hey jeff -- i have a FWD / APR stage3 as well >>
no doubt about it -- this kit will shake loose any flaws with the car. i've had some sheared manifold studs, etc. i'm at 130k miles now with about 60k miles on the kit.
as far as the dv goes -- i'd stick with a solid piston dv for your setup. i've run as many dv's as you have and the most tried and true is the old forge 006 (too big though) or the dahlback piston dv (which i run now without problem). diaphram ones never work right with this setup -- and no matter what, all dv's flutter with this kit (at least that's what i've noticed).
i didn't realize kmac made a front kit for the fwd tt. sorry you had bad luck with that one.
<img src="http://www.squarewave.com/army/andrew/ttStuff/tt-oct-2006-047.jpg">
as far as the dv goes -- i'd stick with a solid piston dv for your setup. i've run as many dv's as you have and the most tried and true is the old forge 006 (too big though) or the dahlback piston dv (which i run now without problem). diaphram ones never work right with this setup -- and no matter what, all dv's flutter with this kit (at least that's what i've noticed).
i didn't realize kmac made a front kit for the fwd tt. sorry you had bad luck with that one.
<img src="http://www.squarewave.com/army/andrew/ttStuff/tt-oct-2006-047.jpg">
#5
too bad....would have been curious to hear your impressions>>>
on that front camber kit....I hate the OEM setup and would love to get something with a bit more adjustment....
I am glad your tech broke that stud in the shop and it did not happen at Willow....it would/could have been A LOT WORSE!
If you wind up going with the new solution...post your impressions please...
I am glad your tech broke that stud in the shop and it did not happen at Willow....it would/could have been A LOT WORSE!
If you wind up going with the new solution...post your impressions please...
#7
having owned one APR R1 DV...i can't imagine having one in a stage III setup, let alone
a 225HP with a chip. i can imagine that it is probably good with a stock setup. i had my APR R1 DV spring swapped out with the stiffer spring and it still honks at a specific vacumn level...right before boost now, whereas before, it use to honk at a constant level at 0 (zero, where vacumn to boost).
with the nomex diaphram, anyone may not be able to tear or rip it, but holding boost or preventing it from honking is another issue. not sure about anyone else that has one, but i seem to remember that those that have one here report similar issues, like Qu!cksilva.
with the nomex diaphram, anyone may not be able to tear or rip it, but holding boost or preventing it from honking is another issue. not sure about anyone else that has one, but i seem to remember that those that have one here report similar issues, like Qu!cksilva.