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    tCarbon 180 FMIC Install
    Posted by: TTreker on 2007-08-14 14:31:58
    Account #: 46158

    As you may have seen I've spent some time the past couple days installing the relatively new tCarbon FMIC kit for the 180 motor. Here's a little write-up on how the install went. Click on any image for a larger version.

    Here's what was in the box. This kit uses the crossover pipe present (but not used on 180s) to route the charge air. Due to minor shipping damage I was missing some mounting hardware (nuts/bolts).
    P8090004.JPG

    After consulting with Tylor I was able to procure the correct missing hardware locally. Note the 42DD MAP sensor mount and alien feed line plug in the baggies. The short 1" hose with the plug and 2 clamps is to plug the charge line for the DV relo
    P8090005.JPG

    1st thing is to take the front bumper cover off. There are several writups on how to do that but I liked this one here due to it being a little more concise.

    After the bumper cover is off remove the passenger headlight assembly (3 torx screw) then the inlet hose from the SMIC to the throttle body and unmount the MAP sensor from the SMIC
    P8120003.JPG

    Next remove the SMIC and associated plastic air ducting. Undo the clamps to the pancake pipe and joiner hose.
    P8120004.JPG

    There are 3 10mm bolts holding the SMIC on, 2 top 1 bottom, access them from the front. Save these (I needed to reuse 2).
    P8120005.JPG

    Next install the 2 Z-brackets from the kit by removing the upper inside bumper support bolts and mounting as shown. You can remove the bumper before you do the Z-brackets but I didn't.

    driver side
    P8120006.JPG

    passenger side
    P8120007.JPG

    If you haven't yet, remove the bumper by undoing the long bolts on each side.

    Install the IC tank top support bracket to the Z-brackets as shown. I used 1 bolt, 2 washers (f/r) and a nylock nut on each side. Note which bracket goes where. The top bracket is the one without the tabs on the end.
    P8120009.JPG

    The bottom support bracket attaches to the radiator housing at the bottom corners. On mine the mounting holes were present but no bolts so I reused 2 of the SMIC mounting bolts. Note again the bottom bracket should have 'tabs' on each end. If things don't seem to be lining up try swaping the brackets (top/bottom). Mine fit perfectly.
    P8120010.JPG

    When you're finished with those 3 steps it should look something like this:
    P8120008.JPG

    Next install the tank using 6 sets of bolts/washers
    P8120012.JPG

    On mine there was a gap on the top and bottom between the IC tank mounts and the brackets. I used a washer to fill them in.
    P8120013.JPG

    Before attaching any of the silicone tubing I used a Shop Vac in reverse to blow out my metal cross pipe. A bunch of dust/dirt came out so I'd highly recommend it!

    Then the elbow piece can be attached between the pancake pipe and cross pipe. It will be obvious which way the tube goes on. If it doesn't seem to fit turn it around.
    P8120015.JPG

    Make sure the ends are on and get under the car to tighten the T-bolt clamp to the cross pipe. You'll have to remove the plastic belly pan if you haven't already.
    P8120019.JPG

    Next connect the 'U' shaped tube between the driver side of the cross pipe and IC tank end. The long end of the tube goes on the cross pipe.
    P8120016.JPG

    Again make sure the tube is securely on the pipe. I had to do a little work to get it over the cross pipe enough.
    P8120018.JPG

    Now attach the long piece to the outlet of the tank and feed it up toward the intake. At this point I just test fit the final inlet tube to the throttle body.
    P8120023.JPG

    After much test fitting I came to the conclusion that this was the best arrangement for the coupling and T-bolt clamps. Remember everything must be oriented so as not to interfere with the headlight.
    P8130024.JPG

    I used a little teflon tape to seal around the MAP sensor screws
    P8130025.JPG

    Tighten everything down
    P8130028.JPG

    DV relo hookup
    P8130032.JPG

    Other end
    P8130033.JPG

    Note that I did not use the supplied charge port plug. I removed the metal plug from the supplied assembly and used it to plug the OEM line. That way it's easy to switch back if I need to.
    P8130034.JPG

    I had a hard time finding a good spot for the horns. For now they're here in the driver side SMIC location
    P8140038.JPG

    Capped alien feed
    P8140039.JPG

    The coolant tank cover needs trimming
    P8140040.JPG

    New toothy grin
    P8140041.JPG

    I plan to post my performance impressions later. For now I am re-calibrating the Boost Machine but at this point haven't noticed any turbo lag alluded to in another thread.

    ---


    2000 TTC 180 FT Lake Silver/Gray Unspoiled
    APR Chip | Samco TIP | Modshack Stage 3 | tCarbon FMIC | Forge 007P | EvoShield | Poly Dogbone | Borla Catback | Original MKI Arms w/ Poly Bushings | Bilstein/Eibach | Neuspeed 28mm RSB | Stoptech Rotors | OZ ULs 18x8 | H&R Spacers (10f/20r) | Tint (28f/16r)

    2005 Touareg V6 Offroad Gray/Anthracite
    Revo Flash | Euroswitch | XM | Llumar AT35 Tint | Splash Guards

    1998 Passat 1.8T Tip Fjord Blue/Gray
    APR Chip | TT DV | Eibach Prokit | 16" Swings | Euroswitch | XM | Tint

    Had:
    2003 A4 Avant 1.8TQMS APR Stage 1+

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