TTARGA, HOW I DID IT
04-10-2007, 06:00 AM
#1
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
TTARGA, HOW I DID IT
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/110410/targa_tt_007.jpg"></center><p>
. DISCLAIMER
WARNING: I DO NOT ACCEPT ANY RESPONSABILTY FOR WHAT YOU DO TO YOUR CAR. I DO NOT ACEPT ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGES THAT OCCUR TO OTHERS INCLUDING PROPERY.
THE FOLLOWING FAQ, UNLIKE OTHER FAQS, IS EXTREMELY RISKY TO YOUR BELOVED AUDI. IT MAY PERMANENTLY RUIN YOUR CAR'S FINISH THAT WOULD REQUIRE REPAINTING YOUR VEHICLE, AND COSTLY BODY WORK. IT MAY OR MAY NOT PASS LOCAL INSPECTION LAWS.
SEVERAL FACTORS COULD CONTRIBUTE TO RUINING YOUR CAR'S FINISH INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO: INACCURACIES WITHIN THIS TECH ARTICLE, YOUR FAILURE TO PERFORM STEPS DESCRIBED HERE, YOUR OWN CARELESSNESS, THE QUALITY OF THE MATERIALS USED, YOUR EXPERIENCE WITH PAINT, BASIC BODY WORK (OR LACK THEREOF), YOUR CAR'S CURRENT PAINT CONDITION, THE SEVERITY OF THE SCRATCH(ES) YOU INCURE. FURTHERMORE, THE LONG TERM EFFECT ON YOUR PAINT FINISH AND BODY FRAME WORK FROM PERFORMING THIS IS UNKNOWN. I HAVE HAD THIS FOR A YEAR NOW WITH NO ISSUES.
I DO NOT CLAIM TO BE A PROFESSIONAL; THIS DESCRIBES MY EXPERIENCE, ON MY CAR'S PARTICULAR COLOR, ON MY CAR'S CURRENT CONDITION.
YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY. USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF IN DOUBT, GET YOUR LOCAL BODY SHOP TO DO THE WORK.
BY READING FURTHER, YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DIRE RESULTS TO YOUR CAR OR ANYTHING RELATED TO THIS TO INCLUDE OTHERS.
THIS IS ALSO WHAT "I" DID, AND THERE MAY BE A SOULUTION THAT VARYS FROM THIS.
SO THERE I WAS, NO ONE WOULD INSTALL A SUNROOF ON MY TT, AND THERE WERE NO KITS FOR A TT OR A TARGA TOP. SO ONE DAY I CHOOSE TO MAKE MY OWN. I NEW IT WOULD TAKE A WHILE TO PERFECT AND THAT IT WOULD NEVER BE FULLY FINISHED. I ALSO WANTED TO MAKE AND DO EVERYTHING MYSELF TO PROVE THAT I COULD DO IT.
SO OVER A YEAR LATER, I CAN SAY THAT THE CONCEPT IS FINISHED, AND THAT IT WAS A LONG PROCESS. I HAVE TRIED ALMOST EVERYTHING TO SEAL AND LATCH THE ROOF DOWN. I ALSO TRIED TO KEEP IT VERY SIMPLE WITH MINIMAL AMOUNTS OF CUTTING AND PAINTING AND DRILLING. I ALSO WANTED THE ROOF TO BE REMOVED FROM THE DRIVERS SEAT AND ALSO TO BE INSTALLED IN LESS TIME THEN IT TAKES TO PUT A CONVERTIBLE TOP ON. I HAVE TESTED THIS OVER 20,000 MILES AND 1 YEAR. I USE THE FACTORY DRAIN POINTS TO PREENT LEAKAGE INTO THE CABIN WHERE THE ROOF MIGHT NOT SEAL. SO THE FOLLOWING IS WHAT I DID, AND HOW I DID THE FINAL VERSION.
THIS IS NOT DIRECTIONS, AND IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS, IT'S AT YOUR OWN RISK.
1. I REMOVED THE HEADLINER AND ALL INTERIOIR TRIM PIECES IN THE CABIN FOR THE ROOF.
2. I REMOVED THE TWO ROOF TRIM PIECES ON THE SIDES OF THE ROOF.
3. I TAPED A LINE TO CUT THE FRONT OF THE ROOF, SEE PICTURE. I MADE A STRAIGHT LINE, AND I USED A CUTTING BLADE, THE THINEST I COULD FIND FOR MY GRINDER. THERE IS A FRAME UNDER WHERE THE CUT WAS MADE, AND A SAWZALL WOULD HAVE RUINED IT.
4. REMOVED THE ROOF RACK MOUNTING BOLTS, 4 EA.
5. DRILLED OUT 6EA PER SIDE RETAING RIVETTS AND THEN USED A PAINT SCRAPER AND HAMMER FROM THE INSIDE TO SEPARATE THE ROOF FROM THE FRAME.
6. I TAPED A LINE ON THE REAR OF THE ROOF JUST BELOW THE POINT WHERE I COULD NOT SEE THE CUT WITH THE HATCH. I LEFT THE STAPED FACTORY CREASE ON, AND CUTT APROX ¼ INCH BELOW THAT POINT. ALSO I MADE SURE THAT I DID NOT CUT THE WIRING HARNESS THAT GOES INTO THE HATCH.
7. THE POINT OF NO RETURN, I MADE THE FRONT CUT. I WAS EXTREMLY CAREFULL NOT TO CUT THE SIDE SUPPORTS OF THE FRAME AND NOT ANY WIRES UNDER THIS PORTION OF THE ROOF. ON THE EDGES I USED AN EXTREMLY SHARP CHISLE BECAUSE I COULD NOT GET INTO THE CHANNEL WITH THE GRINDER.
8. REMOVED THE ROOF AND CAREFULLY PLACED IT DOWN ON A BLANKET, EVEN THOUGH 10 MINUETS LATER I STEPED ON IT WALKING BACKWARDS LOOKING AT WHAT I DID ?
9. LET THE FINISHING BEGIN!!!!!!!
10. LOOSLEY REINSTALL THE HEADLINNER WITH THE ROOF OFF, AND MADE A LINE ON THE BACKSIDE WITH A MARKER STRAIGHT DOWN FROM THE FRONT INTERNAL FRAME. THE CUT IT WITH A PAIR OF SHARP SISSORS.
11. I REINSTALLED ALL THE INTERIOIR TRIM PIECES MINUS THE ROOF HEADLINER PIECE THAT I JUST CUT, BUT INTALLED THE PIECE FOR THE VISORS.
12. I LOOSLY INSTALLED THE TRIM PIECES AND TRIMED THEM AS NESSARY, THE GLUED THEM DOWN WITH 3M SPRAY ADHESIVE.
13. NEXT I DID THE ROOF FINISHING WORK. WITH THE ROOF UPSIDE DOWN ON THE BLANKET, I SPRAYED "GREAT STUFF" EXPANSION FOAM TO GIVE THE ROOF SOME MORE STIFFNESS. I WAS CARFULL NOT TO HAVE ANY TOWARDS THE FRONT AND REAR BECAUSE THAT WOULD HINDER THE ROOF BEING INSTALLED. APPROX. 8 INCHES FROM THE FRONT AND FROM THE REAR. I SPREAD THE FOAM AROUND TO GET IT EVEN THEN TOOK THE NEW HEADLINER ANY LAYED IT DOWN ON TOP OFF THE FOAM. NOTE: YOU WILL HAVE REMOVED THE NEW HEADLINER AGAIN TO GLUE IT!
14. ONCE THE FOAM HAS DRIED, REMOVE THE FABRIC, AND SPRAY ON THE ADHESIVE, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EXTRA FABRIC SO YOU CAN TRIM IT ALONG ALL FOUR SIDES.
15. THEN I INSTALLED THE FRONT h BRACKET/SEAL ON THE FRONT PIECE OFF THE ROOF THAT IS STILL ATTACHED. I SCREWED THE PIECE ON THROUGH THE SKIN AND INTO THE SUBRAME WITH TWO SHEETMETAL SCREWS, ON THE EDGES OF THE ROOF.
16. I INSTALLED THE ROOF TO CHECK FITMENT, AND I HADE TO ADJUST THE REAR HATCH SO IT WOULD NOT "PINCH" THE ROOF.
17. WITH THE ROOF ON WHERE I WANTED IT, I DRILLED A 45 DEG WHOLE THROUGH THE ROOF CHANNEL INTO THE REAR FRAME SUPPORT, AND WAS REALLY CAREFULLY OF THE WIRES. THEN DID THE SAME ON THE OTHER SIDE. ALSO I DRILLED A WHOLE LARGE ENOUGH FOR THE LATCH HANDLE ON THE INSIDE TRIM.
18. THEN I REMOVED THE ROOF AND INSTALLED THE SPRING PIN LATCHES FROM THE OUTSIDE IN. I USED A SOCKET TO HAMMER THEM INTO PLACE. REINSTALLED THE ROOF AND CHECKED FOR FITMENT AND OPERATION.
19. WITH ALL WELL I STARTED THE LAST STAGE.
20. I REOVED THE STUFF UNDER THE FACTORY ROOF TRIM PIECES, IE THE RUBBER SPACERS AND THE ROOF RACK CLIPS. BUT I LEFT THE SEALS ON THE SIDES
21. THEN I LOOSLY PLACED THEM BACK ON AND MADE A LINE TO CUT INLINE WITH THE CUT IN THE FRONT OFF THE ROOF.
22. NEXT I TAPED DOWN THE SIDES OF WHERE THE TRIM PIECES WILL GO. I MIXED SOME BONDO TO BOND AND FILL UNDER THE TRIM PIECES TO THE ROOF. I PLACE THE TRIM PIECES ON AND LINED THEM UP. LET IT DRY AND REPEAT ON THE OTHER SIDE. NOTE: MOVE THE LATCHES IN AND OUT TO PREVENT THE LATCHES GETTING STUCK TO THE BONDO!
23. REMOVED THE TAPE AND CLEANED UP. REMOVED AND REINSTALLED THE ROOF A FEW TIMES AND MADE MINOR ADJUSTMENTS AS NESSARY.
THE KEY THINGS TO PREVENT THE ROOF FROM BEING RIPPED OFF BY THE WIND WHEN DRIVING IS THE LEADING h BRAKET AND THE PREVENTION OF THE ROOF MOVING TO THE REAR. I ENSURED THE THERE WAS NO WAY THE WIND COULD GET UNDER THE LEADING EDGE OF THE ROOF PANNEL. ALSO TO ENSURE A GOOD WATER TIGHT SEAL, YOU MUST ENSURE THE h BRAKET FITS TIGHTLY ON THE ROOF.
THAT'S ALL BESIDE SMALL COSMETIC THINGS NOT WORTH TALKING ABOUT.
ANY QUESTIONS?
. DISCLAIMER
WARNING: I DO NOT ACCEPT ANY RESPONSABILTY FOR WHAT YOU DO TO YOUR CAR. I DO NOT ACEPT ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGES THAT OCCUR TO OTHERS INCLUDING PROPERY.
THE FOLLOWING FAQ, UNLIKE OTHER FAQS, IS EXTREMELY RISKY TO YOUR BELOVED AUDI. IT MAY PERMANENTLY RUIN YOUR CAR'S FINISH THAT WOULD REQUIRE REPAINTING YOUR VEHICLE, AND COSTLY BODY WORK. IT MAY OR MAY NOT PASS LOCAL INSPECTION LAWS.
SEVERAL FACTORS COULD CONTRIBUTE TO RUINING YOUR CAR'S FINISH INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO: INACCURACIES WITHIN THIS TECH ARTICLE, YOUR FAILURE TO PERFORM STEPS DESCRIBED HERE, YOUR OWN CARELESSNESS, THE QUALITY OF THE MATERIALS USED, YOUR EXPERIENCE WITH PAINT, BASIC BODY WORK (OR LACK THEREOF), YOUR CAR'S CURRENT PAINT CONDITION, THE SEVERITY OF THE SCRATCH(ES) YOU INCURE. FURTHERMORE, THE LONG TERM EFFECT ON YOUR PAINT FINISH AND BODY FRAME WORK FROM PERFORMING THIS IS UNKNOWN. I HAVE HAD THIS FOR A YEAR NOW WITH NO ISSUES.
I DO NOT CLAIM TO BE A PROFESSIONAL; THIS DESCRIBES MY EXPERIENCE, ON MY CAR'S PARTICULAR COLOR, ON MY CAR'S CURRENT CONDITION.
YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY. USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF IN DOUBT, GET YOUR LOCAL BODY SHOP TO DO THE WORK.
BY READING FURTHER, YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DIRE RESULTS TO YOUR CAR OR ANYTHING RELATED TO THIS TO INCLUDE OTHERS.
THIS IS ALSO WHAT "I" DID, AND THERE MAY BE A SOULUTION THAT VARYS FROM THIS.
SO THERE I WAS, NO ONE WOULD INSTALL A SUNROOF ON MY TT, AND THERE WERE NO KITS FOR A TT OR A TARGA TOP. SO ONE DAY I CHOOSE TO MAKE MY OWN. I NEW IT WOULD TAKE A WHILE TO PERFECT AND THAT IT WOULD NEVER BE FULLY FINISHED. I ALSO WANTED TO MAKE AND DO EVERYTHING MYSELF TO PROVE THAT I COULD DO IT.
SO OVER A YEAR LATER, I CAN SAY THAT THE CONCEPT IS FINISHED, AND THAT IT WAS A LONG PROCESS. I HAVE TRIED ALMOST EVERYTHING TO SEAL AND LATCH THE ROOF DOWN. I ALSO TRIED TO KEEP IT VERY SIMPLE WITH MINIMAL AMOUNTS OF CUTTING AND PAINTING AND DRILLING. I ALSO WANTED THE ROOF TO BE REMOVED FROM THE DRIVERS SEAT AND ALSO TO BE INSTALLED IN LESS TIME THEN IT TAKES TO PUT A CONVERTIBLE TOP ON. I HAVE TESTED THIS OVER 20,000 MILES AND 1 YEAR. I USE THE FACTORY DRAIN POINTS TO PREENT LEAKAGE INTO THE CABIN WHERE THE ROOF MIGHT NOT SEAL. SO THE FOLLOWING IS WHAT I DID, AND HOW I DID THE FINAL VERSION.
THIS IS NOT DIRECTIONS, AND IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS, IT'S AT YOUR OWN RISK.
1. I REMOVED THE HEADLINER AND ALL INTERIOIR TRIM PIECES IN THE CABIN FOR THE ROOF.
2. I REMOVED THE TWO ROOF TRIM PIECES ON THE SIDES OF THE ROOF.
3. I TAPED A LINE TO CUT THE FRONT OF THE ROOF, SEE PICTURE. I MADE A STRAIGHT LINE, AND I USED A CUTTING BLADE, THE THINEST I COULD FIND FOR MY GRINDER. THERE IS A FRAME UNDER WHERE THE CUT WAS MADE, AND A SAWZALL WOULD HAVE RUINED IT.
4. REMOVED THE ROOF RACK MOUNTING BOLTS, 4 EA.
5. DRILLED OUT 6EA PER SIDE RETAING RIVETTS AND THEN USED A PAINT SCRAPER AND HAMMER FROM THE INSIDE TO SEPARATE THE ROOF FROM THE FRAME.
6. I TAPED A LINE ON THE REAR OF THE ROOF JUST BELOW THE POINT WHERE I COULD NOT SEE THE CUT WITH THE HATCH. I LEFT THE STAPED FACTORY CREASE ON, AND CUTT APROX ¼ INCH BELOW THAT POINT. ALSO I MADE SURE THAT I DID NOT CUT THE WIRING HARNESS THAT GOES INTO THE HATCH.
7. THE POINT OF NO RETURN, I MADE THE FRONT CUT. I WAS EXTREMLY CAREFULL NOT TO CUT THE SIDE SUPPORTS OF THE FRAME AND NOT ANY WIRES UNDER THIS PORTION OF THE ROOF. ON THE EDGES I USED AN EXTREMLY SHARP CHISLE BECAUSE I COULD NOT GET INTO THE CHANNEL WITH THE GRINDER.
8. REMOVED THE ROOF AND CAREFULLY PLACED IT DOWN ON A BLANKET, EVEN THOUGH 10 MINUETS LATER I STEPED ON IT WALKING BACKWARDS LOOKING AT WHAT I DID ?
9. LET THE FINISHING BEGIN!!!!!!!
10. LOOSLEY REINSTALL THE HEADLINNER WITH THE ROOF OFF, AND MADE A LINE ON THE BACKSIDE WITH A MARKER STRAIGHT DOWN FROM THE FRONT INTERNAL FRAME. THE CUT IT WITH A PAIR OF SHARP SISSORS.
11. I REINSTALLED ALL THE INTERIOIR TRIM PIECES MINUS THE ROOF HEADLINER PIECE THAT I JUST CUT, BUT INTALLED THE PIECE FOR THE VISORS.
12. I LOOSLY INSTALLED THE TRIM PIECES AND TRIMED THEM AS NESSARY, THE GLUED THEM DOWN WITH 3M SPRAY ADHESIVE.
13. NEXT I DID THE ROOF FINISHING WORK. WITH THE ROOF UPSIDE DOWN ON THE BLANKET, I SPRAYED "GREAT STUFF" EXPANSION FOAM TO GIVE THE ROOF SOME MORE STIFFNESS. I WAS CARFULL NOT TO HAVE ANY TOWARDS THE FRONT AND REAR BECAUSE THAT WOULD HINDER THE ROOF BEING INSTALLED. APPROX. 8 INCHES FROM THE FRONT AND FROM THE REAR. I SPREAD THE FOAM AROUND TO GET IT EVEN THEN TOOK THE NEW HEADLINER ANY LAYED IT DOWN ON TOP OFF THE FOAM. NOTE: YOU WILL HAVE REMOVED THE NEW HEADLINER AGAIN TO GLUE IT!
14. ONCE THE FOAM HAS DRIED, REMOVE THE FABRIC, AND SPRAY ON THE ADHESIVE, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EXTRA FABRIC SO YOU CAN TRIM IT ALONG ALL FOUR SIDES.
15. THEN I INSTALLED THE FRONT h BRACKET/SEAL ON THE FRONT PIECE OFF THE ROOF THAT IS STILL ATTACHED. I SCREWED THE PIECE ON THROUGH THE SKIN AND INTO THE SUBRAME WITH TWO SHEETMETAL SCREWS, ON THE EDGES OF THE ROOF.
16. I INSTALLED THE ROOF TO CHECK FITMENT, AND I HADE TO ADJUST THE REAR HATCH SO IT WOULD NOT "PINCH" THE ROOF.
17. WITH THE ROOF ON WHERE I WANTED IT, I DRILLED A 45 DEG WHOLE THROUGH THE ROOF CHANNEL INTO THE REAR FRAME SUPPORT, AND WAS REALLY CAREFULLY OF THE WIRES. THEN DID THE SAME ON THE OTHER SIDE. ALSO I DRILLED A WHOLE LARGE ENOUGH FOR THE LATCH HANDLE ON THE INSIDE TRIM.
18. THEN I REMOVED THE ROOF AND INSTALLED THE SPRING PIN LATCHES FROM THE OUTSIDE IN. I USED A SOCKET TO HAMMER THEM INTO PLACE. REINSTALLED THE ROOF AND CHECKED FOR FITMENT AND OPERATION.
19. WITH ALL WELL I STARTED THE LAST STAGE.
20. I REOVED THE STUFF UNDER THE FACTORY ROOF TRIM PIECES, IE THE RUBBER SPACERS AND THE ROOF RACK CLIPS. BUT I LEFT THE SEALS ON THE SIDES
21. THEN I LOOSLY PLACED THEM BACK ON AND MADE A LINE TO CUT INLINE WITH THE CUT IN THE FRONT OFF THE ROOF.
22. NEXT I TAPED DOWN THE SIDES OF WHERE THE TRIM PIECES WILL GO. I MIXED SOME BONDO TO BOND AND FILL UNDER THE TRIM PIECES TO THE ROOF. I PLACE THE TRIM PIECES ON AND LINED THEM UP. LET IT DRY AND REPEAT ON THE OTHER SIDE. NOTE: MOVE THE LATCHES IN AND OUT TO PREVENT THE LATCHES GETTING STUCK TO THE BONDO!
23. REMOVED THE TAPE AND CLEANED UP. REMOVED AND REINSTALLED THE ROOF A FEW TIMES AND MADE MINOR ADJUSTMENTS AS NESSARY.
THE KEY THINGS TO PREVENT THE ROOF FROM BEING RIPPED OFF BY THE WIND WHEN DRIVING IS THE LEADING h BRAKET AND THE PREVENTION OF THE ROOF MOVING TO THE REAR. I ENSURED THE THERE WAS NO WAY THE WIND COULD GET UNDER THE LEADING EDGE OF THE ROOF PANNEL. ALSO TO ENSURE A GOOD WATER TIGHT SEAL, YOU MUST ENSURE THE h BRAKET FITS TIGHTLY ON THE ROOF.
THAT'S ALL BESIDE SMALL COSMETIC THINGS NOT WORTH TALKING ABOUT.
ANY QUESTIONS?
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04-10-2007, 08:21 AM
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You're a brave man! ...still hard to see any detail from your pics....
...I'd like to see good pics of the edge detail with the roof piece off, especially.
Not that I'd ever attempt this myself. :-)
Not that I'd ever attempt this myself. :-)