Frequently Asked Questions and Common Problems Thread Collection
09-12-2006, 05:23 AM
#211
DIY replacement of Fuel and Coolant Temp gage movements (by Jeff Bipes)...
<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1486795.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1486795.phtml</a</li></ul>
09-16-2006, 11:48 AM
#212
AudiWorld Super User
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Noblesville, Indiana
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Front control arm bushing replacement/upgrade to poly bushings:
This is a how-to on replacing the stock rubber bushings with PowerFlex polyester bushings. These bushings are located in the forward position in the front control arms on the Audi TT.
Why? Very early Audi TT's had a smaller, stiffer bushing in the control arms (known as MK1). Some occurrences of oversteer at high speed led to a recall and Audi replaced it with an entirely new arm (known as MKII) which are basically the same, only the front position bushing is much larger.
MKI vs MKII:
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v327/photos/4/41970/4038447/arms1-vi.jpg">
The MKI arms are much-sought after and very rare. If you're not lucky enough to have found a set, the closest you can get to the crisp steering feel the MKI arms provide over the MKII is to replace the larger, cushier stock bushings with the stiffer poly bushings.
Before the step-by-step I thought I'd get to the good stuff first.
<B>Driving impressions:</B> Surprisingly immediate increase in steering feel through the wheel. If you drive like you are going through a slalom course of cones this will best show the marked increase in steering response over the stock bushings. Turn-in is quicker and you simply feel more attached to the car from the steering wheel through to the wheels on the ground.
<B>Tools needed:</B>
13, 16, 17 and 18mm sockets (1/2 drive preferred on the larger sockets)
18mm open end wrench
25mm torx
Jack and jack stands or lift
Rubber mallet
12-year-old boy (optional)
PowerFlex PFF3-501 front wishbone poly bushings <a href="http://www.ttstuff.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FMPFF3501">av ailable at TT-Stuff</A>
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v292/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings145-vi.jpg">
Replacing #1 in photo below:
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v16/photos/4/41970/4038447/PFTTQ_540-vi.jpg">
<B>Audi Part numbers for front control arm nuts and bolts removed:</B>
(You can get these at your dealer or your online parts supplier of choice.)
N 904 840 03 hexagonal head bolt M12X1.5X82 (2 needed per car, #4 in pic below)
N 102 622 01 hexagon head bolt c/w shoulder BM12X1.5X70-SW18 (2 needed per car, #5 in pic below)
N 015 081 4 hexagon nut, shouldered M12X1.5 (2 needed per car, #6 in pic below)
N 103 320 01 hexagon nut, shouldered M10 (6 needed per car, #11 in pic below)
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v22/photos/4/41970/4038447/etka-vi.gif">
New nuts and bolts:
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v22/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings059-vi.jpg">
Get the car up in the air. Make sure the car is in gear, emergency brake on. We placed jack stands under the frame rail. Make sure car is secure before getting under it.
Cars up in the air (DanoTT silver '02; MarTT black '01)
<img src="http://images17.fotki.com/v297/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings010-vi.jpg">
Jack stand on frame rail:
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v16/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings006-vi.jpg">
Remove wheels with 17mm socket and set aside.
Remove belly pan with 25mm torx and set aside (12 year old optional but very helpful):
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v292/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings127-vi.jpg">
Here's the bar that will be removed:
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v16/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings004-vi.jpg">
Remove headlight range control linkage with 13mm socket (on left side arm):
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v16/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings101-vi.jpg">
Mark position of nuts holding the control arm to the ball joint.
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v292/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings016-vi.jpg">
Remove bottom nuts from ball joint with 16mm socket. (Mine were nasty and a little rusty, clean them up before re-install.)
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v22/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings019-vi.jpg">
Remove bolts from front bushing and rear bushing location with 18mm socket. Rear bushing bolt also has a nut. You may need to hold this with the open end 18mm wrench.
Remove the front 18mm bolt:
<img src="http://images12.fotki.com/v212/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings024-vi.jpg">
Remove the rear 18mm bolt (hold nut on the top):
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v18/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings026-vi.jpg">
Remove the control arm. The easiest way to do this is pull down on the outer end of the arm, freeing the ball joint from the arm. The ball joint assembly rotates out of the way, allowing quite a bit of play in the control arm, allowing you to pull the arm down and out. Repeat for the other side of the car.
Now the fun part. You have to get the bushing out of the arm and I've read various ways to do this from burning it out with a torch to drilling through the rubber, then pounding it out with a hammer while the arm is secured in a vise. We chose the easier route - have someone else do it! We're lucky enough to have a good relationship with the local Audi service department and some of the techs as well. The bushings are housed in a metal sleeve, then that sleeve is pressed in to the arm at the factory. The tech said he has never removed them; they always just replace the whole arm. We thought a standard bushing press would take the bushing right out, but apparently not. The tech used a combination of the press and an air chisel to get them out. We handed him $100 when he was done with the four arms and we were on our way (he was happy).
Audi tech using an air chisel to remove bushings:
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v22/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings039-vi.jpg">
Bushings removed!
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v327/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings038-vi.jpg">
When we got back from the shop, we used a small sanding wheel attached to a drill to clean and smooth the inside of the arm where the new poly bushing will be installed.
Spread some of the included grease on to the poly bushing and press in to the arm one side at a time. They slide right in.
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v22/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings044-vi.jpg">
Press in to the control arm:
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v86/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings048-vi.jpg">
Then take the stainless steel sleeve and push into the assembled components. A fast and firm push against the concrete garage floor put them in the right spot. I said fast and firm.
Stainless steel sleeve pushes in:
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v292/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings050-vi.jpg">
So now you're feeling pretty good and ready to install the arms back on the car.
Arms ready for install:
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v86/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings053-vi.jpg">
A smear of grease on the outer edges of the poly bushings helps here.
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v292/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings093-vi.jpg">
Install is literally reverse of removal. With the outer edge of the control arm pointing down and the bushing sides angled up, slide/push the arm into the car. It takes some pressure (rubber mallet).
Angle the arm up and in:
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v327/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings060-vi.jpg">
Line up the front bushing and press in the new bolt (p/n N 904 840 03). The longer of the 2 bolts goes in the front. The shorter is for the back. You don't need to start threading it right now since the rear bushing is not lined up yet. You might decide this is a good time to twist the ball joint back into the 3 holes in the control arm - you can do this but don't install the new nuts (p/n N 103 320 01) just yet. You'll need to wiggle the arm and sometimes hammer with the mallet to get the arm in position.
When the rear is lined up, press in the bolt (p/n N 102 622 01) and secure with the top nut (p/n N 015 081 4). Then you can thread the front bolt in and tighten it down.
Tighten rear 18mm bolt and nut (nut shown):
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v16/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings063-vi.jpg">
Tighten front 18mm bolt:
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v327/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings077-vi.jpg">
Put the 3 16mm nuts on the ball joint and tighten to 75 Newton meters (as stated in the Bentley).
Line up 16mm nuts with your marks and tighten:
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v86/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings083-vi.jpg">
Attach the headlight range control bracket to the control arm with the 13mm bolt.
I could not find torque specs for the 18 mm bolts in the Bentley. They were on there super tight, so we tightened them super tight. For the rear 18mm bolt, make sure to hold the nut on the top with the 18mm open-end wrench.
Put belly pan back on and wheels back on. Remove jack stands, lower car. Drive and enjoy.
Regarding alignment: Both Dan and I feel an alignment is due after this install. We're not sure we lined up the ball joint/control arm connection just right and we were due for a good alignment anyway. If you're more precise, an alignment is not necessary.
Why? Very early Audi TT's had a smaller, stiffer bushing in the control arms (known as MK1). Some occurrences of oversteer at high speed led to a recall and Audi replaced it with an entirely new arm (known as MKII) which are basically the same, only the front position bushing is much larger.
MKI vs MKII:
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v327/photos/4/41970/4038447/arms1-vi.jpg">
The MKI arms are much-sought after and very rare. If you're not lucky enough to have found a set, the closest you can get to the crisp steering feel the MKI arms provide over the MKII is to replace the larger, cushier stock bushings with the stiffer poly bushings.
Before the step-by-step I thought I'd get to the good stuff first.
<B>Driving impressions:</B> Surprisingly immediate increase in steering feel through the wheel. If you drive like you are going through a slalom course of cones this will best show the marked increase in steering response over the stock bushings. Turn-in is quicker and you simply feel more attached to the car from the steering wheel through to the wheels on the ground.
<B>Tools needed:</B>
13, 16, 17 and 18mm sockets (1/2 drive preferred on the larger sockets)
18mm open end wrench
25mm torx
Jack and jack stands or lift
Rubber mallet
12-year-old boy (optional)
PowerFlex PFF3-501 front wishbone poly bushings <a href="http://www.ttstuff.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FMPFF3501">av ailable at TT-Stuff</A>
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v292/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings145-vi.jpg">
Replacing #1 in photo below:
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v16/photos/4/41970/4038447/PFTTQ_540-vi.jpg">
<B>Audi Part numbers for front control arm nuts and bolts removed:</B>
(You can get these at your dealer or your online parts supplier of choice.)
N 904 840 03 hexagonal head bolt M12X1.5X82 (2 needed per car, #4 in pic below)
N 102 622 01 hexagon head bolt c/w shoulder BM12X1.5X70-SW18 (2 needed per car, #5 in pic below)
N 015 081 4 hexagon nut, shouldered M12X1.5 (2 needed per car, #6 in pic below)
N 103 320 01 hexagon nut, shouldered M10 (6 needed per car, #11 in pic below)
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v22/photos/4/41970/4038447/etka-vi.gif">
New nuts and bolts:
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v22/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings059-vi.jpg">
Get the car up in the air. Make sure the car is in gear, emergency brake on. We placed jack stands under the frame rail. Make sure car is secure before getting under it.
Cars up in the air (DanoTT silver '02; MarTT black '01)
<img src="http://images17.fotki.com/v297/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings010-vi.jpg">
Jack stand on frame rail:
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v16/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings006-vi.jpg">
Remove wheels with 17mm socket and set aside.
Remove belly pan with 25mm torx and set aside (12 year old optional but very helpful):
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v292/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings127-vi.jpg">
Here's the bar that will be removed:
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v16/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings004-vi.jpg">
Remove headlight range control linkage with 13mm socket (on left side arm):
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v16/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings101-vi.jpg">
Mark position of nuts holding the control arm to the ball joint.
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v292/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings016-vi.jpg">
Remove bottom nuts from ball joint with 16mm socket. (Mine were nasty and a little rusty, clean them up before re-install.)
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v22/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings019-vi.jpg">
Remove bolts from front bushing and rear bushing location with 18mm socket. Rear bushing bolt also has a nut. You may need to hold this with the open end 18mm wrench.
Remove the front 18mm bolt:
<img src="http://images12.fotki.com/v212/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings024-vi.jpg">
Remove the rear 18mm bolt (hold nut on the top):
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v18/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings026-vi.jpg">
Remove the control arm. The easiest way to do this is pull down on the outer end of the arm, freeing the ball joint from the arm. The ball joint assembly rotates out of the way, allowing quite a bit of play in the control arm, allowing you to pull the arm down and out. Repeat for the other side of the car.
Now the fun part. You have to get the bushing out of the arm and I've read various ways to do this from burning it out with a torch to drilling through the rubber, then pounding it out with a hammer while the arm is secured in a vise. We chose the easier route - have someone else do it! We're lucky enough to have a good relationship with the local Audi service department and some of the techs as well. The bushings are housed in a metal sleeve, then that sleeve is pressed in to the arm at the factory. The tech said he has never removed them; they always just replace the whole arm. We thought a standard bushing press would take the bushing right out, but apparently not. The tech used a combination of the press and an air chisel to get them out. We handed him $100 when he was done with the four arms and we were on our way (he was happy).
Audi tech using an air chisel to remove bushings:
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v22/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings039-vi.jpg">
Bushings removed!
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v327/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings038-vi.jpg">
When we got back from the shop, we used a small sanding wheel attached to a drill to clean and smooth the inside of the arm where the new poly bushing will be installed.
Spread some of the included grease on to the poly bushing and press in to the arm one side at a time. They slide right in.
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v22/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings044-vi.jpg">
Press in to the control arm:
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v86/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings048-vi.jpg">
Then take the stainless steel sleeve and push into the assembled components. A fast and firm push against the concrete garage floor put them in the right spot. I said fast and firm.
Stainless steel sleeve pushes in:
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v292/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings050-vi.jpg">
So now you're feeling pretty good and ready to install the arms back on the car.
Arms ready for install:
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v86/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings053-vi.jpg">
A smear of grease on the outer edges of the poly bushings helps here.
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v292/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings093-vi.jpg">
Install is literally reverse of removal. With the outer edge of the control arm pointing down and the bushing sides angled up, slide/push the arm into the car. It takes some pressure (rubber mallet).
Angle the arm up and in:
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v327/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings060-vi.jpg">
Line up the front bushing and press in the new bolt (p/n N 904 840 03). The longer of the 2 bolts goes in the front. The shorter is for the back. You don't need to start threading it right now since the rear bushing is not lined up yet. You might decide this is a good time to twist the ball joint back into the 3 holes in the control arm - you can do this but don't install the new nuts (p/n N 103 320 01) just yet. You'll need to wiggle the arm and sometimes hammer with the mallet to get the arm in position.
When the rear is lined up, press in the bolt (p/n N 102 622 01) and secure with the top nut (p/n N 015 081 4). Then you can thread the front bolt in and tighten it down.
Tighten rear 18mm bolt and nut (nut shown):
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v16/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings063-vi.jpg">
Tighten front 18mm bolt:
<img src="http://images19.fotki.com/v327/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings077-vi.jpg">
Put the 3 16mm nuts on the ball joint and tighten to 75 Newton meters (as stated in the Bentley).
Line up 16mm nuts with your marks and tighten:
<img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v86/photos/4/41970/4038447/bushings083-vi.jpg">
Attach the headlight range control bracket to the control arm with the 13mm bolt.
I could not find torque specs for the 18 mm bolts in the Bentley. They were on there super tight, so we tightened them super tight. For the rear 18mm bolt, make sure to hold the nut on the top with the 18mm open-end wrench.
Put belly pan back on and wheels back on. Remove jack stands, lower car. Drive and enjoy.
Regarding alignment: Both Dan and I feel an alignment is due after this install. We're not sure we lined up the ball joint/control arm connection just right and we were due for a good alignment anyway. If you're more precise, an alignment is not necessary.
09-23-2006, 04:54 PM
#214
Steering Column Cover Removal (you can replace if you want):
<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1554477.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1554477.phtml</a</li></ul>
09-23-2006, 08:50 PM
#215
Replacement of wheel well 90 Degree bellypan fittings...
<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1554582.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1554582.phtml</a</li></ul>
09-24-2006, 05:51 PM
#217
Side mirror removal/install. Also for Euro Mirrors.
<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1101497.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1101497.phtml</a</li></ul>
09-29-2006, 05:33 AM
#220
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 5,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Additional observations and notes regarding latitudinal and longitudinal sensors...
<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/threads/431500.phtml#1556568">https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/threads/431500.phtml#1556568</a</li></ul>