Seems like we have had a few of these spring leaks recently - including mine. The after-run coolant pump continues to circulate coolant through the turbo after the car has been shut off to allow the turbo to cool down properly. You can hear it running after you shut off the car, or whenever you stick the key in the ignition before starting the car.

I couldn't find any write-ups on the replacement, so here's mine. I have a higher-mileage TT, so if this is starting to become a common issue, we will probably start to see more of these leaking. It's not a tough job but a few things are good to know before you start, i.e. do this when the engine is cold, otherwise you will get sprayed with hot coolant when you remove the hoses. (Don't ask me how I know that.) Probably a good idea to unscrew the cap of the coolant expansion tank to vent the system too. This simple process took me about an hour. (That includes looking for the pliers, dropping torx bits and screws, etc. My point is that you can do it faster if you are efficient.)

The pump is located in front of the engine, behind the radiator. It's actually screwed into it. Here is a picture (thanks to MarTT). Btw, this picture is not correct for the TT: The pump is not held on with nuts; it's held on by Torx screws.



The part number is 078 965 561 and is available from World Impex for about $106.

Step 1: Jack up the car and remove the skid plate underneath the engine. This step is completely optional, but I tend to drop a lot of things when working around the engine, so avoid the frustration and expletives by removing this at the start.

Step 2: Remove this front trim piece. The rivets are removed by pushing in the center button--in a little, but not all the way through--and then pry up on the rivet.




Here you can just barely see the pump between these two hoses. This is looking towards the front of the car.




Step 3: See this clip? It holds the wiring socket on the pump.




Use a needle-nose pliers to remove it.




Step 4: Pull off the wiring socket. It should slide off once the clip is removed.




Step 5: Unscrew the two screws holding the pump. They are T30 Torx screws. I used a Torx bit in a 1/4" socket on a socket wrench. Be careful not to drop the screws.




Step 6: Yank that sunuvabitch out.




Note the small plastic hose clip that holds the hose to the metal bracket underneath the front manifold cover. Don't lose this and make sure to reconnect it when putting it back together.




Step 7: Remove the hose clamps. Get ready for coolant to spray out. (Note the crusty dried-up coolant. Looks like it's been leaking for a while.)




Here's where I ran into a problem. Top is the old pump, bottom is the new pump. Note the new pump does not include the clamps that hold the pump. Also note that the clamps are held together by a riveted bracket. Those clamps somehow need to get transferred to the new pump.




What I did was use a Dremel to cut off the ends of the rivets and used a screwdriver to pry the bracket apart. The clamps then sprung loose. I figured that that riveted bracket was only to help hold the clamps together and in place during assembly, since the screws will hold the clamps shut anyway once the pump is screwed back onto the radiator.




Here is the new pump with the old clamps. I actually left one of the rivets a little long (by accident), but it lightly held the clamps together when pressed in place. Make sure you have the clamps in the same spot on the new pump as they were on the old so it goes back into the car at the same angle.



Now reinstall everything in reverse: Attach the hoses, screw the pump back into place (can be a little tricky with the loose clamps), snap the small plastic hose holder back into its bracket, plug in the wiring socket, put on the metal spring clip, turn on the ignition to make sure it doesn't leak, reinstall the trim piece, and you're done.

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Lots 'o problems; my sig got too long.
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