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Never endin fuel gauge saga. She's back at the dealer. Replaced cluster and both senders. Reads

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Old 10-25-2004, 09:59 AM
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Default Never endin fuel gauge saga. She's back at the dealer. Replaced cluster and both senders. Reads

2/3 full with about 2 gallons in the tank (280 miles). Anybody who had this problem actually have a fuel gauge which works properly now?
Old 10-25-2004, 10:20 AM
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Default ours never went past full when they replaced the cluster and the sending unit...

It used to go higher when it was new. Now it sits slightly toward the left of the "F" mark. At least it doesn't disco up and down when the thing broke. That was quite funny - until we stalled the car - for having no gas - oops.
Old 10-25-2004, 10:51 AM
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Default I had that problem. Audi replaced the instrument cluster without results...>>

finally replaced both senders and problem solved. ...Until 2 weeks ago and same problem appeared. I put a bottle of fuel treatment cleaner (Chevron) before refueling twice and problem seems to be solving its self.
Old 10-25-2004, 12:31 PM
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Default I had problems with the gas gauge as well...replaced fuel pump and relay.

that fixed the problem...but the cluster decided to go out a year later.
Old 10-25-2004, 05:37 PM
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Default That is really interesting. Read on. Somebody posted that the oxidation, not rust,

caused by oxigenated gas interferes with the signal from the sender. Read this

They corrode, possibly due to oxygenated gas. If you take it out...

you can use a pink pearl eraser to burnish the contacts, and they will be back to normal. I had to do that once, about 30K ago, been fine since. I expect I'll have to do it again at some point.

(corrode, not like getting eaten away, but like develop an insulating oxide film)

Here's a post I made OTOF at the time:

My fuel gauge was reading high - close to 1/2 with over 300 miles on the trip odometer, a natural event on a TDI, but not on a TT.

VAG-Com showed the resistance fluctuating (measuring block 2), so I pulled the fuel pump. Attached to the side is a ceramic circuit board with multiple contacts and resistors across which a set of sliding contacts move with the float. I figured that corroded or contaminated contacts were the problem.

To get to the contacts, you need to remove the metal rod which holds the float. It's a press fit and can be removed by carefully prying with a small screwdriver. After doing so, the plastic piece which holds the moving contacts can be removed easily. The circuit board is on a plastic carrier, after removing it, the circuit board can also be removed.

I then cleaned both with a contact cleaner, then used a "pink pearl" eraser to lightly burnish all points of electrical contact.

Put it back together, and not much change at all. Foo. But, I've got a Quatto, so there's a second sender in the left side of the tank. The two senders are connected in series so the gauge reads the sum of both sides of the tank.

Pulled the secondary fuel pump, and cleaned those contacts, too. That took care of the problem - the gauge now reads about 3/16, where it read 7/16 before.

Much cheaper than a new right side sender (about $80) or a secondary pump (about $135, no separate sender available).
Old 10-25-2004, 05:40 PM
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Default Bill, can your diagnostic software read this?

My fuel gauge was reading high - close to 1/2 with over 300 miles on the trip odometer, a natural event on a TDI, but not on a TT.

VAG-Com showed the resistance fluctuating (measuring block 2), so I pulled the fuel pump. Attached to the side is a ceramic circuit board with multiple contacts and resistors across which a set of sliding contacts move with the float. I figured that corroded or contaminated contacts were the problem.
Old 10-26-2004, 10:02 AM
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Default

did that help? don't know if VAG-COM can read that.
Old 10-26-2004, 12:15 PM
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Default

It said someting about going into Bank 2 and reading fluctuations.
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