TTS oil change.
06-05-2018, 01:55 PM
#1
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
TTS oil change.
I changed the oil on my TTS for the first time today so I thought I would share some pics of the process and tools needed. It was really quite straightforward.
Tools and parts needed:
32mm socket
Torx T45
Torx T25
Small flat screwdriver
Oil drain plug tool
Plastic oil drain plug
Oil Filter and O-Ring
6 quarts of your oil of choice. I chose Mobil 1 0w40.
The under-body panel is very large and secured by 11 Torx T25 screws, 3 Torx T45 bolts and 2 plastic push pins that can be pried out with a small screwdriver.
This is the first car I’ve had with a plastic sump pan. The drain plug is plastic and requires a special tool to twist it on and off. It’s just half a turn by hand. I replaced the plug which has a new o-ring seal on it. Cheap insurance. Here is a view looking toward the front of the car. I have already inserted the drain plug tool into the plug.
My oil was really dirty looking after only 2500 miles. My car was warmed up so the oil drained pretty quickly.
After draining the oil I fitted the new oil drain plug. It’s good practice to lube the plastic o-ring on the plug with a little oil. Then I re-installed the under-body panel.
Now I turned my attention back to the top of the engine. To access the oil filter you need to remove the engine cover. It has 4 attachment points. Just give it a pull. Now you can better see the oil filter in the front, the dipstick just behind it and the filler cap in the back.
Use the 32mm socket to remove the oil filter canister. I was amazed at how small the oil filter was. Just pull out the old one and replace it with a fresh one. Don’t forget the new O-ring. And remember to lube it.
Now add 6 quarts of oil and you are done. Check the dipstick to be sure you are in the proper fill range. Most cars don’t even have a dipstick any more!
Tools and parts needed:
32mm socket
Torx T45
Torx T25
Small flat screwdriver
Oil drain plug tool
Plastic oil drain plug
Oil Filter and O-Ring
6 quarts of your oil of choice. I chose Mobil 1 0w40.
The under-body panel is very large and secured by 11 Torx T25 screws, 3 Torx T45 bolts and 2 plastic push pins that can be pried out with a small screwdriver.
This is the first car I’ve had with a plastic sump pan. The drain plug is plastic and requires a special tool to twist it on and off. It’s just half a turn by hand. I replaced the plug which has a new o-ring seal on it. Cheap insurance. Here is a view looking toward the front of the car. I have already inserted the drain plug tool into the plug.
My oil was really dirty looking after only 2500 miles. My car was warmed up so the oil drained pretty quickly.
After draining the oil I fitted the new oil drain plug. It’s good practice to lube the plastic o-ring on the plug with a little oil. Then I re-installed the under-body panel.
Now I turned my attention back to the top of the engine. To access the oil filter you need to remove the engine cover. It has 4 attachment points. Just give it a pull. Now you can better see the oil filter in the front, the dipstick just behind it and the filler cap in the back.
Use the 32mm socket to remove the oil filter canister. I was amazed at how small the oil filter was. Just pull out the old one and replace it with a fresh one. Don’t forget the new O-ring. And remember to lube it.
Now add 6 quarts of oil and you are done. Check the dipstick to be sure you are in the proper fill range. Most cars don’t even have a dipstick any more!
Last edited by S4Bloom; 06-05-2018 at 02:06 PM.
06-06-2018, 02:46 AM
#3
AudiWorld Super User
Really well done writeup Brad!! Yes, it's a very large under-tray. I only had to undue half of it to install the 034 transmission dogbone and even that was tedious on Rhino ramps. Your lift is certainly the way to go.
I've only suctioned oil thus far but you've inspired me to go back to ol' school draining. Amazon for the "winged" sump plug tool?
I've only suctioned oil thus far but you've inspired me to go back to ol' school draining. Amazon for the "winged" sump plug tool?
Last edited by Huey52; 06-17-2018 at 02:58 AM.
06-06-2018, 09:25 AM
#5
See I'm planning to just do mine with an extractor! I've seen plenty of people doing the EA888 from the top (and apparently most shops do it this way too), especially since the filter is on the top too! Thoughts anyone? The special tools and having to take the entire under panel off is really unappealing to me.
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Mr TT (03-28-2021)
06-06-2018, 10:12 AM
#7
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
There is a torque spec actually stamped on the top of the filter but I didn’t use a torque wrench. It’s not like a bolt where you can overtighten it. The housing just spins on, with pretty fine threads, then just stops. You can’t overtighten it. There is no way to screw it up. If you don’t want to buy a 32mm socket (I am a tool addict so any excuse for me to buy a new tool is a win.) then you can easily remove and install the oil filter canister with a big adjustable wrench.
The undertray removal is inconvenient but it’s not difficult at all. It took me no more than 10 minutes to remove it (since it was my first time) and 5 minutes to reinstall.
The only tool most people don’t already have in their tool box is the drain plug removal tool. I got that on Amazon for about $5.
Using an extractor would be pretty cool. You should definitely post about your experience. Hmmm, maybe that’s another tool I ”need”.
The undertray removal is inconvenient but it’s not difficult at all. It took me no more than 10 minutes to remove it (since it was my first time) and 5 minutes to reinstall.
The only tool most people don’t already have in their tool box is the drain plug removal tool. I got that on Amazon for about $5.
Using an extractor would be pretty cool. You should definitely post about your experience. Hmmm, maybe that’s another tool I ”need”.
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06-06-2018, 10:21 AM
#8
Alright, I figured it was pretty standard and hard to screw up, but was worried that it had a torque spec stamped right on it and didn't want to break something that screws into my engine block haha. I don't mind getting the 32mm socket (like $5 and keeps the housing from getting claw marks), but a torque wrench is a lot more expensive just for this.
I'm going to get an extractor because I don't have a lift and don't really want to jack the car up. I'll post a write-up like you did! Been meaning to get an extractor for a while. Can use for (almost) any car's oil change, and also for getting stale fuel out of tanks, for brake bleeds, etc. Thanks for the info!
I'm going to get an extractor because I don't have a lift and don't really want to jack the car up. I'll post a write-up like you did! Been meaning to get an extractor for a while. Can use for (almost) any car's oil change, and also for getting stale fuel out of tanks, for brake bleeds, etc. Thanks for the info!
06-07-2018, 02:42 AM
#9
AudiWorld Super User
I've top extracted my oil once thus far. It was of course much easier, especially given the also top mounted oil filter. And it is the way many dealerships and independents now do it. But I just can't help feeling I'm not getting all the "sediment" out. So, I will do a bottom drain next AudiCare + 5k interval.
