WHAT? No bushings on the strut tower???
#1
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WHAT? No bushings on the strut tower???
Just looked under my hood and found this. Doesn't there need to be a bushing on that? There is a little rubber ring that's on there. I took it off for one of the pics. I'm pretty sure it's not doing anything.
I'm also getting the popping sound when turning the wheel. I just got FSDs and springs put on the car. Now I'm worried that the bearings are bad.
This lowering has proved to be a rough road...
I'm also getting the popping sound when turning the wheel. I just got FSDs and springs put on the car. Now I'm worried that the bearings are bad.
This lowering has proved to be a rough road...
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Just looked under my hood and found this. Doesn't there need to be a bushing on that? There is a little rubber ring that's on there. I took it off for one of the pics. I'm pretty sure it's not doing anything.
I'm also getting the popping sound when turning the wheel. I just got FSDs and springs put on the car. Now I'm worried that the bearings are bad.
This lowering has proved to be a rough road...
I'm also getting the popping sound when turning the wheel. I just got FSDs and springs put on the car. Now I'm worried that the bearings are bad.
This lowering has proved to be a rough road...
It is generally recommended to replace the bearing, nut and mount when you replace the suspension.
I just installed coilovers and the new mounts were almost twice the size of the ones I took off, they shrink with age. See pic (not mine)
ECS sells a kit for around $50 to do both sides.
#3
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Can I add these without taking the struts off. I would hate to take that nut off the top and something fly apart.
Also, when I go over something like railroad tracks it seems to hit pretty hard. Could this be the reason?
Also, when I go over something like railroad tracks it seems to hit pretty hard. Could this be the reason?
#4
Strut bushings and bearings seem to last about 40,000 miles for most. Not a huge job but it is a weak point of VW Audi McPherson strut suspensions.
#5
AudiWorld Super User
You can replace the mounts and bearing without removing but it's not easy and be careful because there is a lot of energy in those springs.
You need some decent tools, air tools make this much easier.Hydraulic jack and jack stands is a must. Torque wrench also.Some 6/7 mm long allens with a 21/ 22mm deep sockets (a 13/16 spark plug socket) is a good fit.
There are two nuts that need to be removed, the first one holds that top mount you can see, but there is another one under the rubber mount that holds the springs on the struts.That's the one you need to very careful with.
You will need a pair of spring compressors.
1.Jack up front of car and put on jack stands.
2. Remove front wheels.
3. Remove sway bar link both sides.This will allow the suspension to drop further.
4. Jack up one wheel and attach spring compressor to top of spring.Tighten spring compressor 4-5 turns to hold spring.Make sure it's secure because you will be in a world of hurt if not
5. Remove Top nut and top hat 7 mm allen, 21/22mm socket, this is tricky as the shaft of the shock is going to try and turn. Air impact gun works best.
This is where you need to be careful.
6. Loosen and remove the lower nut similar to (5).
7. Lower the jack a little more (about 6 inches).
8. Remove rubber mount and old bearing. You should be able to reach up and maneuver it out.
9. Re-install new bearing and mount.
10. Install new 21/22 mm nut.
11. Jack wheel hub so mount is in position, torque to 44 ft lbs.
12. Fit top hat mount and nut torque to 44 ft lbs.
Passenger side is hardest, if you are going to "epic fail" that would be the side.
You really need pics but I don't have any.
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