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Coolant Leak

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Old 08-06-2013, 10:24 AM
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Default Coolant Leak

I have a coolant leak. It was diagnosed as coming from the Cooling Hose Connector.

Where is this located? I have been looking for a cooling system diagram that contains this part, and I have yet to find it.

Any help would be appreciated as I am planning to replace the part tonight. (The shop wanted to charge ~$212 dollars. (It is a $4 part)

Thanks in advance.
Old 08-06-2013, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Midget Hellion
I have a coolant leak. It was diagnosed as coming from the Cooling Hose Connector.

Where is this located? I have been looking for a cooling system diagram that contains this part, and I have yet to find it.

Any help would be appreciated as I am planning to replace the part tonight. (The shop wanted to charge ~$212 dollars. (It is a $4 part)

Thanks in advance.
I tried to edit the original post, but I was not able to. This is a 2000 Audi TT Quattro. I am not having much luck in finding the location of this particular part.
Old 08-06-2013, 02:03 PM
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I think that is on the left side of the engine bay and the temp sensor goes in the top of it.


Cheers.

http://images5.fotki.com/v73/photos/...SCN2158-vi.jpg
Old 08-06-2013, 02:24 PM
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Default I'd replace the hoses and coolant while you're at it

if the hoses had never been replaced. Being that you are a newbee here, I assume that you know that the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, etc must be replaced every 5 years or 60K. If yours is due for replacement, you can do it all at the same time.

Last edited by Vegas-roadster; 08-06-2013 at 02:27 PM. Reason: added data
Old 08-07-2013, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by CRU57Y
I think that is on the left side of the engine bay and the temp sensor goes in the top of it.


Cheers.

http://images5.fotki.com/v73/photos/...SCN2158-vi.jpg
Thank you, that gives me an area to start looking.
Old 08-07-2013, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Vegas-roadster
if the hoses had never been replaced. Being that you are a newbee here, I assume that you know that the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, etc must be replaced every 5 years or 60K. If yours is due for replacement, you can do it all at the same time.
I figured they needed to be replaced regularly, but I didn't realize it was as early as 60k miles. Wow.

Are you saying that in order to get to this part, I would need to take all of that off, or are you saying that since I will be replacing hoses anyway I might as well do the timing belt and pump?
Old 08-07-2013, 03:07 PM
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Default The TB stuff is the most important

Originally Posted by Midget Hellion
I figured they needed to be replaced regularly, but I didn't realize it was as early as 60k miles. Wow.

Are you saying that in order to get to this part, I would need to take all of that off, or are you saying that since I will be replacing hoses anyway I might as well do the timing belt and pump?
If the TB etc have not been done, you are driving a time bomb that will cost you $5K+ if the timing system fails. So your leak has zero importance compared to doing PM on the TB system. There have been posts of folks who discovered this fact and had a TB failure on the way to the garage to get the TB done. There is no inspection that guarantees the TB system is not on the verge of failing. Usually it is the tensioner that goes but the water pump is also a major failure point, particularly if yours is the original which had a plastic impeller (a replacement should be metal). Thus replacing the system at 5 years/60K is the only tried and true method. Since you have to drain the coolant to do the TB system, I would replace 13 year old hoses (and thermostat) on any car I owned as PM, whether it was during TB PM or replacing a cracked coolant connector. Most folks agree that DieselGeek makes the best TB replacement kit that has everything you need to replace as well as a special tool to pull the water pump. Relative to the thermostat, some folks have seen an increase in operating temp when a non-OEM thermostat was used.

P.S. Audi was sued for stating in you owner's manual that the timing belt wouold last 100K because it just isn't true.

Last edited by Vegas-roadster; 08-07-2013 at 03:09 PM.
Old 08-07-2013, 04:09 PM
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There are two versions of that flange, located at from what the picture shows, the back of the cylinder head. One version is for with EDL electronic differential lock and the flange has this number molded into it 06A121133C but it's sold as 06A121132A, the other option is for with ESP electronic stability program and it's molded in number is 06A121133J OR BB and sold as 06A121132AP, either one is 20.00 plus the O ring so you can transfer the sensor from the old to new flange. We have both in stock and they look similiar from my quick drive by visual. If you want to pm me with email I can send you the diagram.
Old 08-09-2013, 06:37 AM
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Well, after jumping in and looking at the part that the shop said was bad...it was not that part. I called them to clarify and they said it is the part that bolts to the engine. I took it off to examine it, and it was fine. What I did find was a bad O-Ring on the Temperature Sensor. Glad I didn't let them do the work, that would have been a $300 mistake.
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