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Buying a 2000 TT Help looking for input

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Old 04-16-2009, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by eddierocks16
I love these types of failures with cars in mass production. You get geographical failures. The guy down south barely ever see's dew point. Where people up north see dew point all the time. Where is the guy to chime in with I live up north and don't see any white sludge. Oh wait my car is garage kept that must be why. Thats when statistics has to be used to determine how many cars are in certain conditions to predict what warranty costs are. Thats the purpose of silent recalls. You can knock out geographical failures with out recalling the whole fleet. since most cars never cross into regions they weren't designed to be in. Auto companies are slick like that. It also helps to fix enough of the cars so there is a lot less people for a class action suit. But the business case to determine financial loss from a class suit vs warranty vs silent recall is very complex. But will always minimize rework costs in the long run.
Wow...you really have NO CLUE what you are talking about...
Old 04-16-2009, 07:02 PM
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I have owned my 2000 180TTQ for almost 5 years, 65k miles (bought it at 33k). So far nothing major, no sludge issues to report, been using mobile 1 0-40w Syn and Castrol 5-30w German Syn. I upgraded my DV to a hyperboost when the stock one was causing some strange acceleration surging I determined as the result of impending failure. The swap was easy enough. I had the TB/WP job done @ 60kish (which was pushing it since the belt was already 7 years old at the time). I'm probably a bad test case since I hardly ever get her out of the garage, and when I do I am a mixed driver in terms of aggression. I never track, it's never been used as a daily driver, and it never sees bad weather. In my opinion the 2000 was the best year of the TT, for the simple fact that most of them didn't have the ESP system (mine proudly doesn't) so the driver is actually 100% in control of how the car handles itself on the road and the track. One thing to mention that I really want to get the deflector shield for the coilpack wiring harness cause since most early model TT's (including mine) dont have this (you'll notice the wires are laying almost directly ontop of the engine case with no shielding) the wires will tend to get worn and once exposed (from heat and age) they will cause firing issues with the coil packs and cause acceleration issues and CEL's all over the place. Once this happens, replacement is expensive since the entire wiring harness must get replaced.
Old 04-18-2009, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by eddierocks16
Sludge yes.


http://audi.tribe.net/thread/628613c...7-509bcbceaa5b

There is poor crank case ventilation. Usually the sludge builds up under the valve cover. There are quite a few threads here that discuss common tt problems. Read through sway bar and 1st gear grind. All the quarks of the TT are listed.

this is a quote from your link....

"What is strange about this recall is that it doesn't include the TT, which has a 1.8T. "

to my understanding the sludge issue is a longitude 1.8t problem and not so much on a transverse 1.8t (which is what a TT has )
Old 04-18-2009, 04:36 PM
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i almost forgot to mention. my 2002 has over 107k( i bought it in 05 with 35k) on it and ZERO SLUDGE, like the others said mobil 0w40 every 5-7k and you should be fine.
Old 04-18-2009, 08:17 PM
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Its still a 1.8T. Did you guys not read about how to reduce the risk of a class action suit. Audi TT 1.8 are of a less population. Its the same engine. You not knock the majority in a silent recall, and stick it to the minority. **** haven't any of you guys worked in a corporate world. Its all about sticking it to the customer for buying a ****ty product. Any one with free time can come dig the sludge out of my valve cover. Post all you want how its not your problem. I have been around these business cases to reduce warranty costs by sticking to certain groups.
Old 04-19-2009, 07:08 AM
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Don't worry blewchip. I am familiar with people like you who can't back what he says with physics. Then you brag about trophies to justify short comings of knowledge. You would understand that engine sludging has to do with oil flow circuits, cooling circuits, and ventilation. Audi does a thing called badging. A concept they took from the Jap's. You use the same head and block, then switch pistons, rods, cranks, and heads to adjust power. Which means if one 1.8t has sludge issues they all will. But only certain conditions will cause sludging. If there was a missed operation for drilling a passage, they would have listed out vin build dates.

I would love to hear you what you have to say about oil consumption. You probably would say dude my car doesn't consume oil. You must be using crappy oil cuz you suck. Then you would my car has been in a magazine and I have auto x trophies. If I say your using crappy oil then thats what it is and thats how I back it.

Some day you will learn the physics to being an automotive expert and will be able to explain things with a good argument.

In case your wondering why some people who buy new cars have higher oil consumption than others. Its not because of the weight of the oil they use or anything they did. Given not using oil wieghts of extreme values. It because of the manufacturing. OK hear comes the physics blewchip, take a break if your brain starts to hurt.

Take a cylinder you have a radius, height, an circumference.

Lets do a basic model. If you draw a line up the height or Y- axis. Ideally it would be straight. When a cylinder gets bored the Y-axis is waveform. Depending how wavy that is will vary with oil consumption. Like wise say you sample the circumference at a thousand different points along the height. You find it is not straight at all. This random out of roundness is caused by many things. Plunge speed, tool spinning speed, coolant flow when cutting, tool sharpness, Chamfers on tool to discard cut material and reduce chatter when cutting, Proper bearing preload on cutting machine(This why I am nervous about small shops that can't afford to certify their machines every year, machines need to be rechecked after so many uses and time operating). Some engines are bored better than others and its like a scratch and win ticket for consumers if they buy a new car that does consume oil.

Like wise the same goes for pistons. Companies cannot not gauge every bore every where and the find matching pistons. So on stack out some people have higher oil consumption than others.

Then there is piston rings and break in. Sometimes engines get built with flipped rings, or they may miss a honing step. People don't under stand they should not use the dingle berry hones.

Honing engines is a science and takes more than a trophy, car in magazine, and wanna be speed shop to do. Honing is not black magic. It just takes some development time. Usually a good hone will be 4 - 6 steps. Each step using a different hone head. When a cylinder gets honed your trying to achieve a certain surface finish that is proper for break in. Imagine this you have 100 grit sand paper and 1000 grit all on the same sheet. You need to shave off on the 100 grit leaving the 1000 grit. This is like the peaks and valleys of the surface of metal. During break in these peaks will break off causing wear between the ring and wall seating them. Also some piston rings are tipped. These tips must wear off during break in or else you will face excessive blow, because of an uneven force around the ring. The tips are there to apply additional force to the cylinder walls assisting in break in of a cylinder that is not ideally round all the way up and down. Some may say Eddie if you know what a cylinder wall that is broken looks like why not hone just like it and not have a break in period. Well your ring will not seat. This is like wanting a 1000grit finish but making it a 2000grit instead. No break in will occur if the wall is over honed. You need to break of the peaks in the grain metal to seat the ring. If they are not there no break in can occur.

Every one remembers the special break in oil days, which are no longer around because we understand what the cylinder walls should like for a proper break in. These days you can factory fill with synthetic oil and still achieve proper break in. The reason for this is a lot of mechanical engineers will use standardized test to gauge metal wear. The issue is these test are not represented of all the factors with metal wear in an engine. Because of this we have found that factory fills using synthetic you will still obtain a proper break in after doing hundreds of tear downs and inspections of an engine that was built and ran for a while.

Next be careful of what piston rings you buy. Some companies offer rings that have right angles to allow each side of the ring to overlap each other and produce a better seal. STAY AWAY FROM THESE. Carbon will build up in the corners reducing the rings ability to expand and contract as it adjusts to the uneven round wall. Also if the carbon build up gets bad enough the ring may never compress small enough causing more radial pressure and a higher ring wear rate. Which is why some people complain that a certain companies rings where out fast for some people it will and others it won't.

A proper ring design will not use right angles at overlap.They will use a slot cut at a fairly shallow angle to allow for a lot of overlap on piston ring ends giving nearly perfect seal and good movement.

Now remember blewhchip just believe what I say because I have a trophy from a local baseball, hockey, and auto x team, and am a poser who brags about having their car in a magazine. When you have the magazines assigning people to try to capture spy shots of vehicles where you work then we will talk.

Then again you could just believe the physics and facts.
Old 04-19-2009, 07:21 AM
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Forgot to put in the proper way to run an engine for break in. It is hard. On a scale of 1 - 10. With 10 being the highest, you should run the engine at a 7 - 8. You want higher cylinder pressures to force the rings out on the walls causing them to seat quicker and better.
Old 04-19-2009, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by BlewChip
What are twelve? You are a tool
Your right I am 12. I have 12 years experience in the auto industry. And if you didn't work some poser speed shop in the middle no where that has no regulations. You would understand how to operate a business that is regulated and can be forced into recalls. Remember its all a game to make money and no one likes losing it, All auto companies have to determine the best way to reduce costs when a recall has to be issued or the cost to reduce press.

The issue with some corporate business models, is some people don't consider using lots of silent recalls as an investment to profitability in the future. Because they can't quantify it effects.

Take Toyota, I consider them to be a Foreign GM/Chrysler. But there crappy products have silent recalls left and right. GM/Chrylser's motto is your the dumb a$$ that bought it, you should fix it. My cousin got a new engine in his Lexus because of a silent recall. The car had 110k miles on it to. Since Toyota took care of him do you think he will buy another? GM/Chrysler would have been like thats what you get for buying our product so go buy another.

Look where GM, Chrysler, Toyota are. They both have crummy prodcuts, but the customer perception is Toyota is better. In reality they are just better at hiding their defects. Japenese are known for that.

So BlewChip, YOU DO NOT KNOW what you are talking about if you do not think a big corporation does not have strategy to reduce cost especially in rework.
Old 04-19-2009, 10:04 AM
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http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/articl...TGRUOHEGM1.DTL

VW and Audi officials have noted that proper maintenance is crucial with the turbocharged 1.8-liter engine used in the 1998-2004 VW Passat and 1997-2004 Audi A4. VW also said the 1.8-liter engine used in the New Beetle, Jetta and Audi TT was not as likely to have a problem because that engine contained more oil
so once again its not really a 1.8t transverse (jetta,TT,beetle) problem since these 1.8t's have more oil.... if you maintain you car you should be fine...

eddie you can copy and paste info all you want but it doesnt make you right.
Old 04-19-2009, 11:12 AM
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