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#1 | ||
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New Member
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 106
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#2 |
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2000
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Your stock A4 does not have adjustments for camber or caster. If you want to be able to do this, you'll have to look into aftermarket control arms. And once you have those, you have to think through what settings you want for what driving you'll be doing (it's kinda of a blessing and a curse). Adjustments are with standard wrenches on the control arms in the wheel well.
You can adjust your toe settings on the car with the (PITA) eccentric bolts. However, your toe-plates will give you a measurement for your total toe per axle, but you won't know what it is at each wheel unless you string the car up. So you may be able to obtain, say, 0 toe upfront, but you may also inadvertantly thrust the alignment left or right. Stringing the car up isn't difficult, but is time consuming and rewards your patenince and if you are detail oriented. Toe plates are handy for making quick (but not 100%precise) adjustments at events if you can reasonably eye-ball where the toe is for each wheel, but it assumes that your starting alignment is somewhere in the ball park where you wanted it.
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Sharon
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#3 |
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if there is no adjustment for camber how do they align the car? My car is lowered and I am getting inside tire wear on both front and rear so I am assuming from that, that I have negative camber. Can I even the camber out between sides?
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#4 |
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you'll need to have the adjustable upper links to change camber/caster beyond what minute adjustments can be made without them. If your car is lowered and you have too much negative camber, I think you'll need the links to fix it.
As for which adjustments do what... that's a complicated one to answer. You really have to adjust everything even if you only want to change camber. Once you start messing with stuff, you'll realize what's going on. Oh, and make sure you do things in this order: caster, camber, toe otherwise you might be there for a while. The first time I did this, it took me about 4 hours to do the front with all the trial and error involved. If I had to do it again, I could probably do it in less than 2.
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![]() 2001.5 S4 - Nogaro Blue (sold) 2004 350Z Track South SF Bay Area |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
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can be attributed to too much toe out too. You have an adjustment for that.
Simply lowering your car will give you more camber. We're not talking gobs here, probably a max of arround -1.25 degrees give or take (and obvouisly depending on how low). The other method dealers use is if there is too much camber on one side, is to slide the subframe left or right. There's some slop in the attachments to do that.
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Sharon
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#6 |
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I'd love to see the current state of THWAP.
I'm going to try to do some ProSolos and Tours this year too, but planning a wedding is turning out to be somewhat time consuming, so we'll see.
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![]() 2001.5 S4 - Nogaro Blue (sold) 2004 350Z Track South SF Bay Area |
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#7 |
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We've committed to a full autocross season this year. For us that means trying to hit all the national events west of the Rockies, and committing to one of the local series. We'll like opt for AAS if they can get a concrete site(Crow's Landing? Pretty please?). We may end up doing an occaisional SFR event, but doubt that we'll do their whole series.
I'll be at the first couple SFR events, but probably without THWAP (she's in peices and will be in more and more peices in the coming weeks).
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Sharon
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#8 |
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This new organization? Some folks splitting from the SCCA Solo2 scene.
We may try one of these out.
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Sharon
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#9 |
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and with substantial prize money too! I'll have to keep my eye on that and maybe give it a try as well.
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![]() 2001.5 S4 - Nogaro Blue (sold) 2004 350Z Track South SF Bay Area |
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#10 |
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Also, is it really necessary to get the rear toe links and sway bar link or are most people just running the adjustable fronts?
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