98 audi A6 aha 2.8l timing belt replacement
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98 audi A6 aha 2.8l timing belt replacement
Hi out there.
Im trying to get my daughters car back on the road asap. I think i really might of hosed her car up. I tried replacing her tb after installing a new water pump, t stat etc. I saw a video of a guy succesfully doing this by marking the belt and pullys in a few different areas and put it bak on and it started right up.
So I thought I would give it a go and did the same thing.. all of my marks lined up perfectly without a hitch, i started it and it ran a bit rough so i shut it off immediately. I tore back into it and lined my crank pully to the timing mark and noticed that the belt adjusted because the cam on the left was a hair off to the left and the cam on the right (driver side) was a hair off to the right. So I broke down and bought the 3391 cam lock and the 3242 crank hold pin tools. I re did everything perfectly and it tries to start but it doesnt.
My question is, could i have bent some valves being off just a smidge? Im afraid i already know the answer, but still in denial..
Thanks for any help!!
Im trying to get my daughters car back on the road asap. I think i really might of hosed her car up. I tried replacing her tb after installing a new water pump, t stat etc. I saw a video of a guy succesfully doing this by marking the belt and pullys in a few different areas and put it bak on and it started right up.
So I thought I would give it a go and did the same thing.. all of my marks lined up perfectly without a hitch, i started it and it ran a bit rough so i shut it off immediately. I tore back into it and lined my crank pully to the timing mark and noticed that the belt adjusted because the cam on the left was a hair off to the left and the cam on the right (driver side) was a hair off to the right. So I broke down and bought the 3391 cam lock and the 3242 crank hold pin tools. I re did everything perfectly and it tries to start but it doesnt.
My question is, could i have bent some valves being off just a smidge? Im afraid i already know the answer, but still in denial..
Thanks for any help!!
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I tore back into it and lined my crank pully to the timing mark and noticed that the belt adjusted because the cam on the left was a hair off to the left and the cam on the right (driver side) was a hair off to the right. So I broke down and bought the 3391 cam lock and the 3242 crank hold pin tools. I re did everything perfectly and it tries to start but it doesnt.
So it ran rough with the timing off, but won't start at all with the timing set correctly? That seems odd.
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I know, it doesnt sound right does it. I was thinking loss of compression due to being off time as shown in my picture. I will stop bye after work and grab a compression gauge and check it.
Hopefully i flooded it or something..
There is just not enough time in a day.. I have 6 little ones, 2 in soccer seems we are at the fields both Saturday and Sunday and practices during the weekdays etc.
I seem to opt for the quick/easy methods.. next time I definetely will buy the correct tools.. Murphy has no sympathy for short cutters does he?
Hopefully i flooded it or something..
There is just not enough time in a day.. I have 6 little ones, 2 in soccer seems we are at the fields both Saturday and Sunday and practices during the weekdays etc.
I seem to opt for the quick/easy methods.. next time I definetely will buy the correct tools.. Murphy has no sympathy for short cutters does he?
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Hi out there.
Im trying to get my daughters car back on the road asap. I think i really might of hosed her car up. I tried replacing her tb after installing a new water pump, t stat etc. I saw a video of a guy succesfully doing this by marking the belt and pullys in a few different areas and put it bak on and it started right up.
So I thought I would give it a go and did the same thing.. all of my marks lined up perfectly without a hitch, i started it and it ran a bit rough so i shut it off immediately. I tore back into it and lined my crank pully to the timing mark and noticed that the belt adjusted because the cam on the left was a hair off to the left and the cam on the right (driver side) was a hair off to the right. So I broke down and bought the 3391 cam lock and the 3242 crank hold pin tools. I re did everything perfectly and it tries to start but it doesnt.
My question is, could i have bent some valves being off just a smidge? Im afraid i already know the answer, but still in denial..
Thanks for any help!!
Im trying to get my daughters car back on the road asap. I think i really might of hosed her car up. I tried replacing her tb after installing a new water pump, t stat etc. I saw a video of a guy succesfully doing this by marking the belt and pullys in a few different areas and put it bak on and it started right up.
So I thought I would give it a go and did the same thing.. all of my marks lined up perfectly without a hitch, i started it and it ran a bit rough so i shut it off immediately. I tore back into it and lined my crank pully to the timing mark and noticed that the belt adjusted because the cam on the left was a hair off to the left and the cam on the right (driver side) was a hair off to the right. So I broke down and bought the 3391 cam lock and the 3242 crank hold pin tools. I re did everything perfectly and it tries to start but it doesnt.
My question is, could i have bent some valves being off just a smidge? Im afraid i already know the answer, but still in denial..
Thanks for any help!!
Ok so the tools won't do what they are supposed to do UNLESS you FIRST pop loose the cam gears with a puller....are you getting a check engine light any codes?
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#8
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I know, it doesnt sound right does it. I was thinking loss of compression due to being off time as shown in my picture. I will stop bye after work and grab a compression gauge and check it.
Hopefully i flooded it or something..
There is just not enough time in a day.. I have 6 little ones, 2 in soccer seems we are at the fields both Saturday and Sunday and practices during the weekdays etc.
I seem to opt for the quick/easy methods.. next time I definetely will buy the correct tools.. Murphy has no sympathy for short cutters does he?
Hopefully i flooded it or something..
There is just not enough time in a day.. I have 6 little ones, 2 in soccer seems we are at the fields both Saturday and Sunday and practices during the weekdays etc.
I seem to opt for the quick/easy methods.. next time I definetely will buy the correct tools.. Murphy has no sympathy for short cutters does he?
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Thanks all for your help!!
Wow there is so much to say in reply, im on my tablet so so each letter is a slow painfull hen peck, not to mention the corrections. So please bare with me!
4driver4
That is a good possibility, this actually happened to her car last year. I tried to start with my foot all the way down the other night with no luck. I remember thats how i got it started last time.
I havent tried a cap of oil in each cylinder yet.. Also the car's front end is still in the air on jacks, wonder if this would make any difference or not?
Murdereda6avant
I wanted to pull the cam pulleys this last time after I got the tools, but I got a wierd tink sound and it felt as if I was tightening that cam bolt up. I couldnt find any specific information as to which way to loosen, I went counterclockwise and it felt like the bolt was going to break. So I opted to try to see if I can get the belt tight enough between the crank,idler,and driver cam and I did, then i threaded under the waterpump over the pass cam real tight and then over the tensioner. I then pulled the pin and torqued he tensioner 11ft lbs counterclockwise. It turned out good, then i took off the cam lok tool and removed the crank holding pin and turned the engine 2 full rotations and back to my mark and was able to get the cam lock bar back on with just a tiny amount of downward pressure on the pass side after placing it on the driver cam, i mean tiny.. so yeah its still maybe not perfect. I would like to do it the way you suggest this Sunday afternoon. Also I did not mention this before, the crank pully doesnt exactly fit snug on the guide pins, meaning I can loosen all 8 bolts and rotate about an 1/8 or so back and forth? So I split the difference? I think the 3242 tool might of fit into a hole so that there is no discrepancy on crank placement, does that sound right??
Also about the fuel pressure, her car ran perfectly good before I touched it, as most things. Im getting used to it now, I still have to hear it though from my better half.. "See told you, you should of took it in, no one listens to me!!" Lol.. Im sure we all get a little taste of this now and again..
Wow there is so much to say in reply, im on my tablet so so each letter is a slow painfull hen peck, not to mention the corrections. So please bare with me!
4driver4
That is a good possibility, this actually happened to her car last year. I tried to start with my foot all the way down the other night with no luck. I remember thats how i got it started last time.
I havent tried a cap of oil in each cylinder yet.. Also the car's front end is still in the air on jacks, wonder if this would make any difference or not?
Murdereda6avant
I wanted to pull the cam pulleys this last time after I got the tools, but I got a wierd tink sound and it felt as if I was tightening that cam bolt up. I couldnt find any specific information as to which way to loosen, I went counterclockwise and it felt like the bolt was going to break. So I opted to try to see if I can get the belt tight enough between the crank,idler,and driver cam and I did, then i threaded under the waterpump over the pass cam real tight and then over the tensioner. I then pulled the pin and torqued he tensioner 11ft lbs counterclockwise. It turned out good, then i took off the cam lok tool and removed the crank holding pin and turned the engine 2 full rotations and back to my mark and was able to get the cam lock bar back on with just a tiny amount of downward pressure on the pass side after placing it on the driver cam, i mean tiny.. so yeah its still maybe not perfect. I would like to do it the way you suggest this Sunday afternoon. Also I did not mention this before, the crank pully doesnt exactly fit snug on the guide pins, meaning I can loosen all 8 bolts and rotate about an 1/8 or so back and forth? So I split the difference? I think the 3242 tool might of fit into a hole so that there is no discrepancy on crank placement, does that sound right??
Also about the fuel pressure, her car ran perfectly good before I touched it, as most things. Im getting used to it now, I still have to hear it though from my better half.. "See told you, you should of took it in, no one listens to me!!" Lol.. Im sure we all get a little taste of this now and again..