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How I Did My Front Brakes On A8L Sport

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Old 06-22-2013, 10:33 AM
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Default How I Did My Front Brakes On A8L Sport

Alright, the pad warning light was on, the pads and rotors were replace by the dealer at 55k miles - now it's 77k miles. Guess what the pads were still pretty good, but I didn't know and I want to use my old rotors - Anyhow, it's been a debate about bleeding brakes - I don't regardless - to me if it's a sealed system, leave it alone. The brakes feel perfect - the squeaky sound is gone - I drove to 30 mph and stopped really quick - very nice. Again, this is how I did mine and everyone has his/her own ways of doing thing.


Cheers,

Louis

Last edited by ltooz_a6_a8_q7; 01-21-2014 at 03:10 PM. Reason: Change video
Old 06-23-2013, 06:11 AM
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Exactly. Recently did mine in the same manner. Only surprise was that the sensor went off at the half-way mark, but didn't mind getting the OEM pads off in favor of the cleaner ceramics. Good video.
Old 06-23-2013, 10:58 AM
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Excellent video!
I'm planning to change my front pads in few weeks as well... What tourgue have you used for the pins? Is it 30 Nm?

Thanks!
Old 06-23-2013, 11:39 AM
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Hello Vicl,
I torqued the 2 7 mm hex bolts with feel - They don't have to be extremely tight - actually, you don't have much room for the torque wrench unless it's a short one. Anywho, if you're by the book, torque them to 30Nm like you said.
If you have C-clamps you can compress the piston outside using the old pads.

Cheers,

Louis
Old 06-23-2013, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ltooz_a6_a8_q7
If you have C-clamps you can compress the piston outside using the old pads.
That is better way to do it. By praying it with a screwdriver you can damage the rotor surface.
Old 06-23-2013, 02:06 PM
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If you pry the correct direction, you won't touch the rotor surface.
Old 06-23-2013, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ltooz_a6_a8_q7
If you pry the correct direction, you won't touch the rotor surface.
Like here?

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Old 06-23-2013, 05:07 PM
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Look at the angle - the angle of the contact point always at the pad - never at the rotor - if one can't control the hand and feel the contact point (the blade of the giant screw driver) or understand the mechanics of the PRY - yes, use C-Clamp.
99% of mechanics out there would do this way - but guess what - I did it with care - and again - ignorant people shouldn't work on cars if they don't know what's good and what's not.

Cheers,

Louis
Old 06-23-2013, 05:36 PM
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I believe your video is for a guys who doesn't now how to do this. I would not call them ignorant, although the meaning is pretty much the same. So if somebody needs instructions better made them right. Let them find their own shortcuts once they know what they are doing.
Old 06-23-2013, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ltooz_a6_a8_q7
Look at the angle - the angle of the contact point always at the pad - never at the rotor - if one can't control the hand and feel the contact point (the blade of the giant screw driver) or understand the mechanics of the PRY - yes, use C-Clamp.
99% of mechanics out there would do this way - but guess what - I did it with care - and again - ignorant people shouldn't work on cars if they don't know what's good and what's not.

Cheers,

Louis
Absolutely not the way to do this, and no professional mechanic would remotely suggest it. There's a reason why there's an actual tool kit in my garage to compress brake caliper pistons


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