Timing belt is loose and frayed - Page 2

Huskerbob · 05-05-2012, 11:08 AM

When i did all that work 2 months ago I used a new tensioner and I did pull the pin and pre-loaded it according to the instructions. Since that work I have about 1500 miles on it with no problems.

Huskerbob · 05-05-2012, 11:10 AM

Got it. Thanks. I need to turn the cams about 1/4 inch closkwise to get the bar on. Then loosen the cams and then re-position the crank to the TDC mark? Install the crank lock tool.

SloopJohnB@mac.com · 05-05-2012, 05:41 PM

Either one first should work since you're so close. I'd position the cams then move the crank. Replace TB, idlers, tensioner, etc. If it's more than 50K miles since you've done the water pump and thermostat I'd replace them as well.

Huskerbob · 05-06-2012, 02:08 AM

Thanks for the help SJB. I did evertyhing on the front of the motor about 1500 miles ago when I did the timing belt. This all started with a leaky thermostat so as long as I was in there I just replaced everything plus a failing alternator.

Huskerbob · 05-12-2012, 07:02 AM

okay, got it all apart and the tensioner has failed. It just sits there. The tensioner pulley is trashed and the tensioner arm is actually worn into 2 pieces. Also the crank pulley has a nice grove in it where a piece of the tensioner arm got stuck. How do I remove the crank pulley? Not enough room for a puller to get behind it. Thanks for any advice.

ezveedub · 05-12-2012, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Huskerbob

okay, got it all apart and the tensioner has failed. It just sits there. The tensioner pulley is trashed and the tensioner arm is actually worn into 2 pieces. Also the crank pulley has a nice grove in it where a piece of the tensioner arm got stuck. How do I remove the crank pulley? Not enough room for a puller to get behind it. Thanks for any advice.

What brand is the hydraulic tensioner? Was it OEM? Also, are you trying to take off the lower crank timing belt sprocket? If so, you need to pull the crank bolt and take off the sprocket. The bolt gets replaced also, one time use. I assume you already have the crank pulley off to get the TB covers and tensioner out.

Huskerbob · 05-12-2012, 11:58 AM

the tensioner says NTN on it so Japanese made. Got it from Blau. So I need to remove the big 12 point 24mm bolt at the front of the crank? That will let me get that chowed pulley off? The pulley has 2 keys on the crank.

ezveedub · 05-12-2012, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Huskerbob

the tensioner says NTN on it so Japanese made. Got it from Blau. So I need to remove the big 12 point 24mm bolt at the front of the crank? That will let me get that chowed pulley off? The pulley has 2 keys on the crank.

Yes, you need to pull that 24mm 12 point bolt to get the sprocket off. The front pulley has two alignment keys that index to the crank TB sprocket. You need to have the crank locking pin installed so you can loosen and install the new sprocket and bolt. Replace the crank seal while you're in there.

Huskerbob · 05-12-2012, 12:31 PM

Okay got that part I think. The locking tool will hold so I can break that bolt? Now looking at the cams on the driver side cams the little arrows line up perfectly with the notches on the cams. On the passenger side the exhaust cam arrow is lined up with the notch but the intake cam notch is off about 1/4 inch from the arrow. Maybe one roller on the chain. Can I lift that cam and move it one roller? I'm going to do the seals on the tensioner there anyway so I'll have the cams up.

ezveedub · 05-12-2012, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Huskerbob

Okay got that part I think. The locking tool will hold so I can break that bolt? Now looking at the cams on the driver side cams the little arrows line up perfectly with the notches on the cams. On the passenger side the exhaust cam arrow is lined up with the notch but the intake cam notch is off about 1/4 inch from the arrow. Maybe one roller on the chain. Can I lift that cam and move it one roller? I'm going to do the seals on the tensioner there anyway so I'll have the cams up.

As long as the crank locking pin is installed fully, it will hold to remove and install the crank bolt. The internal cam timing marks I'm not 100% sure of when it comes to the alignment. Its been a while since I've done one. I know it's been posted on this forum before though. If I remember correctly, it was 16 rollers on the chain between the intake and exhaust cam marks. If one is off, then loosen the cams and rotate the cam in the chain when the tensioner is loosened.

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05-05-2012, 11:10 AM	#12
Huskerbob AudiWorld Senior Member 2000 Audi A4 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: North Carolina Posts: 736	Got it. Thanks. I need to turn the cams about 1/4 inch closkwise to get the bar on. Then loosen the cams and then re-position the crank to the TDC mark? Install the crank lock tool.

05-05-2012, 05:41 PM	#13
SloopJohnB@mac.com AudiWorld Super User 2002 Audi S6 Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 4,121	Either one first should work since you're so close. I'd position the cams then move the crank. Replace TB, idlers, tensioner, etc. If it's more than 50K miles since you've done the water pump and thermostat I'd replace them as well.

05-06-2012, 02:08 AM	#14
Huskerbob AudiWorld Senior Member 2000 Audi A4 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: North Carolina Posts: 736	Thanks for the help SJB. I did evertyhing on the front of the motor about 1500 miles ago when I did the timing belt. This all started with a leaky thermostat so as long as I was in there I just replaced everything plus a failing alternator.

05-12-2012, 07:02 AM	#15
Huskerbob AudiWorld Senior Member 2000 Audi A4 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: North Carolina Posts: 736	okay, got it all apart and the tensioner has failed. It just sits there. The tensioner pulley is trashed and the tensioner arm is actually worn into 2 pieces. Also the crank pulley has a nice grove in it where a piece of the tensioner arm got stuck. How do I remove the crank pulley? Not enough room for a puller to get behind it. Thanks for any advice.

05-12-2012, 11:58 AM	#17
Huskerbob AudiWorld Senior Member 2000 Audi A4 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: North Carolina Posts: 736	the tensioner says NTN on it so Japanese made. Got it from Blau. So I need to remove the big 12 point 24mm bolt at the front of the crank? That will let me get that chowed pulley off? The pulley has 2 keys on the crank.

05-12-2012, 12:31 PM	#19
Huskerbob AudiWorld Senior Member 2000 Audi A4 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: North Carolina Posts: 736	Okay got that part I think. The locking tool will hold so I can break that bolt? Now looking at the cams on the driver side cams the little arrows line up perfectly with the notches on the cams. On the passenger side the exhaust cam arrow is lined up with the notch but the intake cam notch is off about 1/4 inch from the arrow. Maybe one roller on the chain. Can I lift that cam and move it one roller? I'm going to do the seals on the tensioner there anyway so I'll have the cams up.

05-12-2012, 01:06 PM
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