Tight Streering, Clucking noise on bumps...

[VONBOTTLE]

You just need to remove the battery and there is a hole in the tray that gives access to the bolt, but i'd remove the tray while you're down there so you can clean out the drain - you'll probably have a birds nest size pile of crap clogging the drain. If the bolt is loose, you might want to put some blue loctite on it before tightening, i think to 50 ft/lbs - can't recall for sure

[SloopJohnB@mac.com]

Just remove the battery and/or the battery tray and look. STFA, I've seen some pics posted on this or TOF.

[MP4.2+6.0]

I have not found a bad ball joint in general. I have found torn boots that would have likely led there over time, but not wear to the ball joint itself; probably caught early. On the other hand, the bushing end has been torn out each time. Tie rod ends were shot on most recent 130K era change. The inner ones where you can't even see them inside the boot.

I just replace the whole part. Obviously I tighten it down with the suspension bearing weight to avoid new bushing distortion. Not sure unfortunately if the earlier changes when car was under warranty were actually done that way by the dealer.

[MP4.2+6.0]

and just w/ hand tools. No problem w/ any of the through bolts as far as loosening and physically moving them. I have air wrenches but haven't used them for this. I have had to demo saw out some of the bolts because of clearance issues (rear upper and one of the lowers IIRC), but then by reversing new ones on the install it can be reassembled. On the other hand, lower ball joint end of the lower control arms have been painfully difficult, even with the spec'ed tools.

Back to the start point though of my suggestion: Front uppers. Most common wear point I have seen (at the bushing) on both the A6 and A8, and documented w/ TSB's over time too. The net on those is I have found them relatively easy to replace on both ends. An hour or less from wheel removal to back on the road.

[tester123]

Hello,

I suppose this time around things are a bit easier. It was the steering rack bolt that was loose and causing the rattle. I removed the battery tray (although not required, cleaned one of the blocked drains), used some Loctite-RED to prevent loosening in future. It was am easy task - for a change!

Also, changed the driver side tie-rod end (passenger side was changed couple years ago) and the steering is smooth like it should be.

Thanks guys!