Tight Streering, Clucking noise on bumps...

[tester123]

Hello, For over a period now, started noticing that there was this thud/clunking kind of noise from the beast usually on small bumpy roads or "wavy" road- (if you drive on Queens Blvd. NYC, you'd know what I am talking about). Sound seems to originate predominantly from the passenger side of the car and sometimes could be felt in the brake / gas pedal. First guess was battery could be loose, but it checkout fine. No cables / other items dangling so, got me thinking it could some boots in the suspension/control arms etc. Also, it could be brakes..?? however, haven't checked anything out yet due to rain. Also steering is getting stiff progressively for a while now, kinda like losing power steering assist. The weird thing is sometimes, there is no problem even during the same drive/outing in the city or during parking etc. Other times, it makes me think that definitely something is wrong. Checked hydraulic fluid and levels are fine. Driver side tie rod's boot is little worn and possibly needs replacement -not so bad in shape- and will do as soon as rain subsides here. The passenger side has been replaced. Just thought I'd post to get some feedback from you folks regarding the areas I should look at.

[MP4.2+6.0]

especially the front ones. On a 2001 w/ some miles, if never changed likely long since toast. Now on my second set changed at 130K miles on a 2000 4.2. They will make some noise if badly worn. Typically at the bolt up point to the top of the strut assembly.

[tester123]

Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0

especially the front ones. On a 2001 w/ some miles, if never changed likely long since toast. Now on my second set changed at 130K miles on a 2000 4.2. They will make some noise if badly worn. Typically at the bolt up point to the top of the strut assembly.

Thanks for the quick reply!

I've also been suspecting the control arms (secretly wishing it wasn't, thinking of work involved ) ... If it is the control arm could the boots be replaced or the whole thing itself?

[SloopJohnB@mac.com]

?? What boots? Clunking control arms are most often worn ball joints although I have pressed in new UCA bushings..just did one on the S6. Replacing a boot on a bj might work if you find a boot and if the bj isn't worn. But if bj is worn the only option is replacing the UCA. Make sure it isn't a lower control arm!

[tester123]

Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com

?? What boots? Clunking control arms are most often worn ball joints although I have pressed in new UCA bushings..just did one on the S6. Replacing a boot on a bj might work if you find a boot and if the bj isn't worn. But if bj is worn the only option is replacing the UCA. Make sure it isn't a lower control arm!

What I meant to say was bushings, instead, I wrote boots. Wrong words but same thought... I am with you on this and personally, would never bother replacing boots on ball joints and always replace the component itself. In my opinion, if the boots are bad, chances are that the ball joint is compromised one way or the other. If it is the bushings then may be, it would make sense to replace them (of course, provided BJs are intact)?

Either way, what should I be expecting to pay for just bushings or for the UCA set? And, you know of any reliable place to get good parts (OEM or AM)?

[SloopJohnB@mac.com]

I've paid as much as $30 apiece for S6 bushings (they are a little diffo from stock A6, also diffo part number, but fit A6 arms too) and have seen them online for $15. Look around.

Yes, I've pressed out/in new bushings on UCAs that have good bjs. Some people say if the bushing is bad the bj isn't far behind, but my labor is cheap. If the bj is tight with no discernible play it's ok to just replace a bushing.

UCAs can run $120-240 apiece...depends on where you get them...try FCP Groton for Lemforder bits...lifetime guarantee. Popping UCAs gets easier and easier the more you do it.

Clunking may be a bushing, but more likely a bj, either on the UCA or worse, a lower control arm. I just replaced a bushing on a UCA on the S6 and still have a clunk on the left side..doesn't happen often and I haven't been able to isolate the problem...I'll wait a couple of months and see if I can figure out where it is...

[tester123]

Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com

....Popping UCAs gets easier and easier the more you do it.

I bet! Haven't looked at it yet, but just thinking that pinch bolt might be stubborn.. we'll see.

Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com

...I haven't been able to isolate the problem...I'll wait a couple of months and see if I can figure out where it is...

Well, my car started this clunking lightly during the winter and now it is demanding attention.. Like you said, I just hope it is not the lower...

[SloopJohnB@mac.com]

Other people have had problems but my air wrench just rips the bolt out. Loosen the nut first...never had a problem with the pinch bolt.
When you put it back in use antiseize on the bolt shaft.

[VONBOTTLE]

Check the steering rack bolt underneath the battery, mine was loose last fall and made a similar clunking noise

[tester123]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts everyone! It's always good hear some feedback as it helps narrow the issue in similar situations.

Originally Posted by VONBOTTLE

Check the steering rack bolt underneath the battery, mine was loose last fall and made a similar clunking noise

This is another thing that was on my mind as well. I went as far as checking the battery but didn't remove it. Do you have any pic of the particular bolts / location /description that could help me?
(I'll also check through my Bentley on my computer to get an idea. I must say, that manual is not user friendly! I start looking for one thing and get more confused as the search results are narrowed ).