Turbo Removal?

[Scibz]

Hey everyone new to this website and new to owning an Audi...i was a VW guy before but wanted more power. Anyways im replacing all Turbo/ex gaskets on my 91 200 20vQT and im having a hard time removing the Turbo from the car. I have all lines disconnected except for the oil feed line...im not sure if i need an allen or a Torx bit and i dont want to strip it! i assume once i have that line off the turbo will come right off?

[yodasfro]

The oil drain line is held to the turbo with 2 5mm allens. The feed is held to the turbo with 2 10mm likely very rusted nuts hammering on an undersized socket will work. Don't worry if the studs pull out you'll want to replace them with bolts anyhow. Any particular reason you are wanting to replace the gaskets?

[Scibz]

Hey I actually didn't have too much trouble getting the feed lines off...Turbo is out..I thought i had a bad exhaust manifold gasket (mani to block)But it turned out that my waste gaste gasket actually went...almost set my heat reflector on fire! =X So i figured if i was already this far why not replace them all? It took a long time to find the proper gaskets, but Thankfully ecs tuning had all but 1

[Scibz]

Im also pretty sure i have a poor TPS..but i am not sure how to determine if its a bad TPS or not. My car is boggy seems to be running on 4cyl not 5 below 2500 rpms...car likes to stall as well. Any suggestions?

[yodasfro]

There are a few tests you can do with a DMM to check it. You should also learn how to check the fault codes. TPS info http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl.../20vthrot.html

Fault code info http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...html#20v_check
That is not to say it could be something entirely different one thing to check is the bypass valve and it's vacuum line

http://www.quattro123.com/Audi200Byp...eplacement.htm

Of course you should make sure your plugs ign. wires and fuel injectors are all good too.

[Scibz]

Thanks for the help i appreciate it. As for the bypass valve, i have a forge 007 in place of them OEM. i actually removed this part not long ago clean and inspected in and everything seems to be ok.

The issue originate about two weeks ago now when i degreased my engine...Im new to the 20v and i did not cover all electrical connections. I am pretty sure this is whem i shorted my TPS, or something else. I have cleaned out my ISV and throttle body hopefully once my gaskets come in and i fire her back up we see some improvement.

As for testing the TPS with a DMM i have already done this and heres what i got. Note: i did ground my DMM to a bolt on the car, i did not connect to pins on the TPS so my readings may be wrong

Pin
1 4.98v
2 0.02v
3 .36v to 4.60 v (closed to full throttle)
4 .01
5 7.26v

Also tested my ign Coil and resistance checks out. But my ign wires seems kinda questionable.

[yodasfro]

Check the link I post about checking the TPS you want to check the resistance ohms not volts between pins 2-3 with the throttle opened and closed.

[Scibz]

As for testing my TPS here are the results

With my DMM set at 20k Ohms

Closed throttle reads 1.062 @ 20k ohms
FOT reads 3.00 at 20k ohms

not sure if i had the right setting on my dmm but regardless i think something is wrong with it after reading about it on sjm

[yodasfro]

Sounds like it is within spec and yeah you probably just have the wrong setting on the DMM. You want it adjusted so the the TPS clicks just as the throttle closes. Here's a better diy on how to test it and the readings
http://www.s2central.net/ds_F60_G69.html

[Scibz]

huge help man thanks a bunch