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Old 03-03-2012, 06:01 PM   #21
audi-driver1126
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Default Okay, i have accomplished alot today

This morning me and my father decided to spend the day working on the car trying to defeat this odd issue.

here is what we did and to what success it brought upon us:

- Changed the intake boot for a less damaged one > no diffrence
- Checked air filter > nothing wrong there
- Changed the distributor pressure regulator > nothing noticable
- Changed the idle control valve > small difference
- Fixed bad fuel pump connector wiring > ran good, then the problem returned

so basically everything we did had little to no effect on how the car ran. when i fixed the twisted wire on the positive lead to the fuel pump the car ran like a charm but has now retured to the stuttering and hesitation.

After that, me and my father decided to return to using the original fuel distrubutor. If any of you remember, i had changed it out for my parts cars just to try my luck.

NOW, there is a new problem. but it seems a little more simple
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Old 04-06-2012, 11:28 AM   #22
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i just removed the big metal rod inside the engine. I dont have a plack i can cover it with as of now though. With the rod removed i have a great big hole with nothing in it. I put the weird brake booster thing back on and bolted it back together, but is it okay to run the engine without the rod inside, and the brake booster device back on?

Here is what i did:

-unbolted the two nuts holding on the brake booster device
-pulled off the brake booster
-removed the metal rod
-put the brake booster back on, leaving the rod's hole unblocked
-tightened everything back up.

i did not put a metal plate over the area, i just put the device back on without the rod inside
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Old 04-06-2012, 11:45 AM   #23
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Yeah, that's fine. A blocking plate would just be to clean up the engine so you don't have that big thing hanging off of it.

-Rog
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Old 05-08-2012, 12:42 PM   #24
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Awesome, aside from a few annoying problems...yes still more problems (sigh) i have fixed the issue thanks to everyone who pitched in with their info. Seafoam did not seem to do anything noticeable in my car...but now that the rod is gone i have no ticking, slapping or anything else that sounds concearning.

Here is a little picture i made just for the sake of others to learn. On photoshop of course...

i might spend a good while making a simple easy to understand diagram of the system and post it for others
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File Type: jpg Audi inline 5 problem.jpg (96.0 KB, 45 views)
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:01 PM   #25
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once and a while you need to have an Audi mechanic set the CO at idle on these CIS cars with a sensitive (and expensive) gas sniffer. CO at idle needs to read about 1.5 % at the pre cat port near the manifold. my car was running really rough, and after I fixed the vacuum leaks and had the CO set, it idles like a sewing machine now at 800 RPM's. My car was way off. as someone mentioned earlier in the thread, if the injector seals are gone, you can not tune the car either.

High idle that can not be dialed down can be from too much advance on the ignition timing as well.

I had to laugh at something you posted. If you are having trouble getting a I5 10 Valve running right, a 20V Coupe is not the answer! they are more complicated and almost as old = even more troubles heading your way. Seems like every 20V Coupe I test drove when I was looking at getting one last year had ABS lights and check engine lights lit up on the dash.

Last edited by onlyaudis; 05-22-2012 at 07:03 PM.
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:08 PM   #26
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found out the major part of this problem was the exhaust. a really bad leak after the cat...Now it idles better. 850 rpm but is a little rough. weird bouncing idle and sometimes hesitates at low rpm
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:57 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audi-driver1126 View Post
well, i've done enough browsing of the forum's here to be a professional at using Seafoam, and i haven't even done it yet.

From what i have read on the forums, most people talk about feeding the Seafoam in through the vacuum lines. like the brake booster for example. Others have talked about putting a can in the tank and feeding it through the CIS system. I've gotten plenty of info about that.

What i want to know is:

What are the best steps to put it in the oil?

from what i gathered, i would need to do this

-Run the car to operating temperature
-Dump the whole can? of Seafoam engine treatment in the oil (via the engine oil cap on valve cover)
-Drive the car around for a little while with the treatment in the engine oil.
-Change oil/oil filter.

Do i have to change the oil right away? or can i drive it around for a day or two. (im on a tight budget) and im not sure how much of the Seafoam to feed into the oil.
put the whole bottle in and DONT DRIVE IT !!!!!!!!!!!!! idle the car for 20-30mins change the oil drive for about 100km then change the oil ...the first time you change the oil it doesnt get every thing out of the system and sea make the oil so thin that if you dont not get everything out have fun rebuild a engine !!
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:59 PM   #28
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I would not personally add an entire bottle of Seafoam to the oil for such a small engine. Per Seafoam's instrustions, you should use 1.5 oz. for every quart of oil, so you're looking at around 1/3 of a bottle or a little more. You can run that as long as you like.

I don't actually think an entire bottle would hurt anything, but it's just wasting it.

-Rog
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:59 PM
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