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Old 02-26-2012, 09:43 PM   #11
Rogviler
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Did you check out the vacuum booster? I would say it sounds more like that than the lifters. The lifters are more like a literal tick, but this is like a slapping, clattery sound, right?

Hey, do you want me to pull a new air boot for you? I noticed that the junkyard has some good ones when I was there the other day.

-Rog
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Old 02-27-2012, 11:54 AM   #12
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Actually, i have not checked the vacuum booster yet surprisingly. Been quite busy with school work, but i think i will today if i can find the right spot. i think its under the 2-3 spark plugs? at a small intersection. One tube going from the top of it and another from the side?


and yes it's a very clattery slapping sound, it is also intermittent .

If you can send a good used air boot that would be really cool. Im pretty sure i have access to a credit card so i can pay you for it. I still remember the hood cable you got for me. I definately wont forget that.
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:08 PM   #13
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Just so you're 100%, if I may use a frame from your video:

Click the image to open in full size.

You can probably just take the rod out and then make that vacuum junction a straight-through rather than a T. Make a block-off plate and remove it for a cleaner look.

-Rog
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:01 PM   #14
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ohh, i was looking in the wrong place!. thanks, that actually helps alot. i will remove that as soon as possible.

i have plenty of extra tubing from my parts car that i can utilise for this job. Could i just use a rubber cap to cover the end of the T intersection?
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:20 PM   #15
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Yeah, whatever you can use to plug the line would be fine.

-Rog
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:04 PM   #16
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okay, ive used a good rubber cap with a hose clamp and i have tightened it up pretty good for the T shaped intersection. for the bottom i untightened the large hollow nut and aimed the nozzle downwards with a large rubber cap and clamp aswell. And yes i did re-tighten it

Hopefully that changes somthing, if not i still am doing the seafoam when i have at least 20$ in the tank
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:27 PM   #17
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Did you remove the rod yet?

I happened across a picture of what a block-off plate would look like:

Click the image to open in full size.

-Rog
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:59 PM   #18
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i took the rod out on my parts engine just to see how easy it was. I havent done much with the seafoam or anything becuase that super annoying hesitation and messed up idle is back

At idle it runs at 1500 rpm smooth. But its way to high

and when driving it hesitates and stutters really bad. WOT is impossible now. I changed the intake boot for another one that wasnt so bad, but there was no difference.

Im really quite frustrated and honestly, i just want a different Audi. I saw a mint 1990 coupe quattro 20 valve for sale with a price of $4500 bucks. its golden beige, as with the interior and man is it ever nice. I would love a car without as many problems as mine.

even some ugly bmw would make me happy right now
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:43 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audi-driver1126 View Post
even some ugly bmw would make me happy right now
Don't you ever say that!!!
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:04 PM   #20
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It's gotta be a vacuum leak. There's pretty much nothing else that would cause that. I know you know about the usual suspects (90% of the time it's a crack in the folds of the air boot), but there are other spots, like the fuel injector seals. The injector seals are particularly suceptable to aggressive solvents, like brake cleaner.

See if they wiggle a lot and if they pull out easily. They are cheap and easy to replace:

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...njector%20Seal

But I'd really check your lines and the boot. Have you flexed the boot a lot to check for cracks? I'll try to get a better one for you, but in the meantime you can really gob on some black RTV gasket maker. If you clean the boot really well it lasts pretty good. Just don't start the car until it's dry.

-Rog
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:04 PM
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