ABS problem?

[NWS6]

Mine was the last work I had done, at the dealer, under a extended warranty. There is some coding work required after installing the part. If you go the module Masters route, I think the new coding may be avoided. In addition to the great discussions here on this forum, another helpful information source is to read forums of other cars which use the same Bosch ABS system. The BMW forums indicated many similar problems and fixes, just make sure it's that exact same system, yours is likely a Bosch 5.7 . These modules are definitely an expensive,failure prone part. The hardest part about deciding on how to fix this problem, is that no clear fault codes were ever given. All I had was the intermittent warning lights and ESP activation, and also the intermittent Yaw sensor fault code. It's been about 3 months since the new ABS module, and all systems are working perfectly with no fault codes or warning lights. I lived with intermittent problems for about 4 years, it's great to have it working properly.

[theloosa6]

Originally Posted by NWS6

Mine was the last work I had done, at the dealer, under a extended warranty. There is some coding work required after installing the part. If you go the module Masters route, I think the new coding may be avoided.

In addition to the great discussions here on this forum, another helpful information source is to read forums of other cars which use the same Bosch ABS system. The BMW forums indicated many similar problems and fixes, just make sure it's that exact same system, yours is likely a Bosch 5.7 . These modules are definitely an expensive,failure prone part. The hardest part about deciding on how to fix this problem, is that no clear fault codes were ever given. All I had was the intermittent warning lights and ESP activation, and also the intermittent Yaw sensor fault code.

It's been about 3 months since the new ABS module, and all systems are working perfectly with no fault codes or warning lights. I lived with intermittent problems for about 4 years, it's great to have it working properly.

Sounds like I have the exact same problem...I just need to find out how easy (or not) it is to remove the ABS module.

Thanks.

[Boston Driver]

The ABS module is somewhat easy to take out. There are 6 torx bolts on the right side. To get to those bolts, you have to jack up the car, remove the wheel liner, unbolt the washer tank, and then you have direct access to those bolts. There was someone from another forum taht said he could get at the bolts using a small torx bit and a socket, but there was not enough room for me to do that method, and it was hard to see two of the bolts without moving the washer tank out of the way.

I brought mine to BBA Reman (located in MA) to do the rebuild. They were slightly less expensive than Module Masters, and they carry a lifetime warranty on their repair (as long as you own the car).
http://www.bba-reman.com/content.asp....3_ABS_Removal

Here is a video of the removal on a B5 S4, but it is pretty much identical to the A6. At least here you can see him using the socket instead of removing the wheel liner to get at the washer tank so get direct access tot he ABS module bolts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqSHUfrXZ-8

Good luck!!!

[theloosa6]

Beautiful, exactly what I was hoping to get help on! Yes, I did talk to BBA, they did my TCM rebuild so I feel pretty good about their service. Were you having similar problems as what I have been experiencing prior to taking your module out? After a day of no ESP light activating, it acted up yesterday (couple of quick flashes) along with the "clicking" noise from what I beleive is the ABS module...noise was also coming from that direction.

Thanks again!

[Boston Driver]

Mine was not the yaw sensor but one of the wheel speed sensors. Just don't forget to cover the exposed ABS pump if you plan on driving the car without the module in place. I used tin foil to wrap the box so I could still drive it around and not worry about the pump getting fouled up.

[GTA_Driver]

I glanced under the hood of a new 2012 A4. They had the sense to rotate the ABS module 90 degrees.

Too bad they didn't think of it from the start.

I'm removing it on my father's B5 A4

[NWS6]

I'd ask BBA if they can analyze the ABS module, and to insure it is the problem. A second question to ask BBA, is if there will be any coding required when you reinstall it.

It sounds like a good experienced company. They probably have some good information on removal and installation tips, also.

If you're disconnecting your battery. Make sure you've got your radio code first. Good luck with your repair.

[Boston Driver]

BBA reman will only charge a diagnostic fee if there is nothing wrong with the ABS module. The instructions they send you stress the importance of disconnecting the battery before reinstalling the unit. Good company, and local to me, so they even had a "local" discount!

[theloosa6]

Originally Posted by Boston Driver

BBA reman will only charge a diagnostic fee if there is nothing wrong with the ABS module. The instructions they send you stress the importance of disconnecting the battery before reinstalling the unit. Good company, and local to me, so they even had a "local" discount!

back again and still needing some help to make some sense out of this...sent the ABS module to BBA, they found broken connections and burnt/gone wires. Re-installed the repaired module. Now I have a solid ESP and ABS light whereas before, the ESP light was intermittent and only one instance of the ABS light coming on!). Cleared previous yaw sensor code but now I have a new wheel sensor code:

00283 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Front Left (G47)
27-00 - Implausible Signal

From what I understood, I did not have to recode anything but just re-install the module and everything should clear itself. Was I mistaken and am I suppose to recode something? Or is this simply a matter of now that the module is "fixed", it is now diagnosing the original problem of the wheel sensor being bad (not the yaw sensor)?? Or is the module still bad??

Help please...thx.

[SloopJohnB@mac.com]

Sounds like you ought to do what the vag-com says and check the signal or the sensor from the front left sensor.
Disconnect and reconnect the cable to the wiring harness, clear the code, and see if it comes back.
If it comes back, replace the sensor.

Of course, it could be some whack job like a broken tone ring or filthy sensor/ring...when you pull the sensor look at the tone ring and see if it's broken and if the sensor is relatively clean. If they're both fouled clean them and try again.