How Do You Remove the Camshafts? (2004 2.7T BEL Engine)
#1
How Do You Remove the Camshafts? (2004 2.7T BEL Engine)
I removed all the cam caps to the passenger side but can not lift out the camshafts and tensioner assembly. The front of the camshafts are lifting due to the valve spring tension and as a result are canting the cams so that I can't lift out the back.
Should I reattach the front cam caps and then slowly work the back up while loosening the cam caps?
BTW removing that combination valve behind the cylinder head is a real pain, literally.
Should I reattach the front cam caps and then slowly work the back up while loosening the cam caps?
BTW removing that combination valve behind the cylinder head is a real pain, literally.
#2
AudiWorld Super User
It looks like the cam is being held in by the adjuster mechanism from the photo's. Sometimes the oil seal can be stuck so firmly into the rebate in the head that it will hopld the cam in as well.
Incidentally, when removing the bearing caps on something like a camshaft, you should always release them gradually in order. Allowing the cam to lift at one end against the bearing cap at the other end is not good for the bearing cap or the journal on the cam. Undo half a turn on every bolt then start again at the front.
Another thing to look out for is checking that the thread holes do not become filled with oil - this can cause an hydraulic lock on rebuild which can strip a thread, cause the casting to split or at the very least, stop the correct tightening torque being applied to the bearing cap.
Incidentally, when removing the bearing caps on something like a camshaft, you should always release them gradually in order. Allowing the cam to lift at one end against the bearing cap at the other end is not good for the bearing cap or the journal on the cam. Undo half a turn on every bolt then start again at the front.
Another thing to look out for is checking that the thread holes do not become filled with oil - this can cause an hydraulic lock on rebuild which can strip a thread, cause the casting to split or at the very least, stop the correct tightening torque being applied to the bearing cap.
#3
Be very careful what you do here. You put the caps back on and the cam adjust bolts back in. Turn the exhaust cam a few degrees counter clockwise until it "jumps" about 15 degrees and unloads the cam. Then remove all the caps again and take the shafts out.
If you try to wiggle it out as is you stand a strong change of snapping the guide on the cam adjuster.
If you try to wiggle it out as is you stand a strong change of snapping the guide on the cam adjuster.
#4
I did remove the caps gradually. According to Blauparts directions, remove 1, 3, 5, and 7. Then gradually work 2 and 4 off. This is what I did.
So at TDC I have a load on the camshafts?
So at TDC I have a load on the camshafts?
#5
I know it is straight forward but I don't want to screw this up.
Last edited by AR15Texan; 04-13-2010 at 08:07 AM.
#6
Thanks for the advice. I understand what you are saying. How do I make sure I keep the correct timing between the exhaust and the intake cam? Looks like there is 16 rollers from timing mark to timing mark, will the cam tensioner change this in any way?
I know it is straight forward but I don't want to screw this up.
I know it is straight forward but I don't want to screw this up.
As you surmise, some of the valves are open, which loads the cam with valve spring pressure. About 15 degress counter clockwise unloads the cam. Turn both cams together with the chain in place. When I pull those cams, I grab one in each hand and lift the cam adjuster out with them. I also put a paint dot on the cam sprocket and the chain, just in case there is an issue.
#7
I assume you are pulling the cams to change the cam adjuster seal. If so, pull them together with the adjuster (just like it seems you are doing).
As you surmise, some of the valves are open, which loads the cam with valve spring pressure. About 15 degress counter clockwise unloads the cam. Turn both cams together with the chain in place. When I pull those cams, I grab one in each hand and lift the cam adjuster out with them. I also put a paint dot on the cam sprocket and the chain, just in case there is an issue.
As you surmise, some of the valves are open, which loads the cam with valve spring pressure. About 15 degress counter clockwise unloads the cam. Turn both cams together with the chain in place. When I pull those cams, I grab one in each hand and lift the cam adjuster out with them. I also put a paint dot on the cam sprocket and the chain, just in case there is an issue.
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