kwb

What do you do with an 8 day old car? ...Start taking it apart!

The project was to hardwire in my V1 radar detector and concealed display unit. I'll appologize for the horrible photos but I only had a camera phone with me but it got the job done.

Step 1: Remove fuse panel. The owners manual say to use a screwdriver and they weren't kidding. It popped off without any marring of the trim.

Step 2: Drop the panel in the driver's foot well.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109337/pic1.jpg">

There are three bolts pointed out with the arrows and 4 clips (only 3 are circled). It takes a little force to get the clips to release but they do come free. (It took me 3 times before I had enough force applied and I swore it was going to rip right off....but fortunately no damage done.

Step 3: Remove the fuse panel.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109337/pic2.jpg">

You need to pull the fuse box so that you can gain access to the other side. It's held in with 2 bolts.

Step 4: Open the back of the fuse box.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109337/pic3.jpg">

The back of the fuse box requires two clips to be released. You can't see one of them until the box is dropped. Once it's opened, you have full access to the wiring.

Step 5: Install vampire tap (aka splice tap)

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109337/pic4.jpg">

The fuses are labeled on the cover. I chose the windshield washer fluid heater. It's 5 amps, switched and easy to access. With the tap installed, I attached red wire with the flat blade from the adapter module (from Valentine) and the black ground wire to the frame.

TEST the setup before you do anything else. Make sure the unit has power and the concealed display works.

Close up the fuse box and reattached it. Finally, Mount the adapter module to the back side of the fuse box. It's nicely out of the way but still very accessable and won't interfear with the kick panel once it's reinstalled.

Step 6: Run the cables.

No pics of this but it's fairly simple. I ran the cable up the A post and across the windshield. The cable pushes under the trim easily with a small dull probe (wooden coffee stirrer from Starbucks works nicely).

Step 7: Mount the concealed display.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109337/pic6.jpg">

With the stearing wheel full compressed, I mounted the display on the column. It only takes about 8 inches of cable to go from the adapter unit to the concealed display. I zip tied the extra cable to the mounting bracket next to the fuse box.

Step 8: Enjoy the new install.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109337/pic5.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109337/pic7.jpg">

agw2

Congrats! and thanks for the detailed instructions.
I wish there was a was to conceal everything...

Medic1

How did you get the display to stick on top of the steering column?

My steering column has a cloth "bellows" on the top. Did you punch a hole in yours to route the wire?

kwb

The remote display unit comes with 2 small squares of 3M's velco-like adhesive. You can buy more at your local hardware store if you want a more secure mount but make sure it's black.

I have the cloth bellows also but it didn't wrap all the way round the column so I could sneak it in from the edge.

philm35

Nice writeup...thanks very much.

How did you mount the V1 to the headliner? Do you worry about it coming loose during an accident and conking you in the head?

--Phil

garyna

Excellent write-up. Followed it exactly and it was much easier than I thought.

pipeline

Mine has no gap to wedge it in there.

audia6s

Nice write but I would rather use "add-a-circuit" with additional fuse instead of "t-tapping".