Oil consumption and alternator q's

unipurify · 11-23-2003, 03:21 PM

I think I fingered out the masive oil consumption problem I have been having...it's leaking big time through the valve seals. How I came up with this? THere's major oil surrounding the exhaust manifold...it's not leaking from the valve cover, or the head gasket, just around the exhaust. I see this as bad for 2 reasons...it's not suposed to b there, and it could ruin my cat. Thoughts welcome. Has anyone replaced the seals while the head is in the car? If so, how...with regular everyday tools-as I have no spring compressor. Also, I have some valve seals from an 86 jetta...will they fit? I think they will. As far as the alternator...It makes a horriffic squeel/tick noise on startup, but goes away after about a minute. It's not the belt, I'm familiar with that noise...I'm thinking bearings...I have a spare one, just no time to install (but it's in the trunk...just in case). Thoughts on this one as well....oh yeah...this is an 85 1.8 FWD.

20VT90q · 11-23-2003, 03:58 PM

How many miles do you have? Oil in the exaust pipe could also mean piston rings but this is unlikely unless you have a lot of miles. Valve stem seals are more likely. I would go to taylorautomotive.com and get the seals made for your car, they are cheap. Make sure you use the viton green seals as they are the best quality. I would also do a compression check on the engine.

Good Luck

P.S. My A/C compressor has gone bad and makes a wooshing/ticking noise as you decribe as I drive off. It quites about 45 seconds-1 minute after startup. The clutch is bad so I unplugged it. It is starting to drive me nuts, I found a used unit on car-part.com. Going to buy that on monday and have a shop install it soon(don't want to mess with the A/C components). I would recommend you get that alternator in as it could potentially seize and take out the belt leaving you stranded!

JeromeS. · 11-23-2003, 04:33 PM

Remove the head and have it rebuilt or replace it with a known good one. The valve stem seals are cheap. Also, I personally don't see how you could do it yourself if you don't have a spring compressor (you can find them for cheap sometimes). Hope it works out for you!

RS4000 · 11-23-2003, 05:10 PM

Me_and_my_GT · 11-23-2003, 05:40 PM

You must have a valve spring compressor. Lisle makes one for about $25. It kind of sucks, but you're not a mechanic using it every day. For occasional use, it's fine. It kind of resembles a lever style wine bottle opener/corker.

*You must keep the valves from falling in. I take no responsibility if you screw up and it happens!*

Method 1: Starting with all the spark plugs removed and #1 cyl at BDC (bottom dead center), feed a high quality rope (one that doesn't leave lint or melt in gas/oil) into the spark plug hole until you can't feed it anymore. MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE SOME HANGING OUT WITH WHICH TO REMOVE IT!

Rotate the crankshaft with a wrench (do NOT use the starter) until you can't/it's very snug. The rope has now bunched up in the combustion chamber to keep the valves from falling in when you remove the spring keepers and seals.

After you've replaced the seals and springs on that cyl., back the crank up, pull the rope out and move to the next.

Method 2: If you have access to an air compressor, you can get a "chuck" of sorts that screws into your spark plug hole. The idea is that you compress the cyl with high pressure air (75-100 psi) to hold the valves closed.

This is a more elegant method, but not everyone has an air compressor (not one of those silly tire inflators) and I can't remember where one can get the air adapter. I suppose you could fashion something from an old plug with a little patience and a hammer. Or maybe out of compression tester parts. Also, the potential to screw up and let the valve fall in is a bit higher this way if you're not careful. Release the pressure to early by accident and you just bought yourself a head gasket kit (have fun popping the head off!).

Just remember, do one cylinder at a time.

In all honesty, if you need new seals, doing the whole head isn't a bad idea, but if you're bent on keeping the head where it is, the rope method works. (So does air, but I haven't done it personally)

Doug

Doug

jcs182 · 11-23-2003, 05:44 PM

I have done it 2 ways. Pull the plug and screw ina fitting that allows you to put comressed air into the cylinder. You can then take the springs and stuff off without the valve falling in. The fitting will likely set you back $20.

The cheapo way is to pull the plug. With the piston off of TDC, you stuff as much Rope (clothes-line) into the cylinder. You the rotate the engine **BY HAND** to bring the piston up and compress the rope against the valves. Repeat for as many cylinders as you have.

Good Luck,

ddg=shinebox racing · 11-23-2003, 09:26 PM

Your gides are probably shot too, I was going through about a quart every 250mi. with my old engine, when I pulled it out I could see all the crap that had built up in the combution chamber and behind the exhaust valves!
A valve jod will make you car feel like new again!!!!

CGTBrad · 11-23-2003, 09:53 PM

budpalumbo · 11-24-2003, 08:34 AM

You can do the seals in the car, but you will need a spring compressor to remove the keepers. You keep the valves from falling in the motor by doing one at a time with the piston all the way up and a differential pressure tester or some other way to hold air pressure in the cylinder while doing the seals. If you bump a valve, it will loose psi and drop, but that is why the piston is up. The bigger concern I have is that if the seals are leaking that bad, your valve guides are 99% shot and need to be replaced. New seals will stop the leak for a week or so.

ddg=shinebox racing · 11-24-2003, 11:06 PM

11-23-2003, 03:58 PM	#2
20VT90q AudiWorld Super User Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Sep 2002 Posts: 5,820	Re: Oil consumption and alternator q's How many miles do you have? Oil in the exaust pipe could also mean piston rings but this is unlikely unless you have a lot of miles. Valve stem seals are more likely. I would go to taylorautomotive.com and get the seals made for your car, they are cheap. Make sure you use the viton green seals as they are the best quality. I would also do a compression check on the engine. Good Luck P.S. My A/C compressor has gone bad and makes a wooshing/ticking noise as you decribe as I drive off. It quites about 45 seconds-1 minute after startup. The clutch is bad so I unplugged it. It is starting to drive me nuts, I found a used unit on car-part.com. Going to buy that on monday and have a shop install it soon(don't want to mess with the A/C components). I would recommend you get that alternator in as it could potentially seize and take out the belt leaving you stranded! __________________ <U>Project '93 Urs4</U> -8/'92 Build Date ~Rear Sway/Suspension~ -Suspicion of a chip (cut carpet) ON THE BED: H&R's, '92 trip computer cluster, Sport Wheel, TDS-1, E-code Headlights, Euro Bumper, A8 Interior Auto-Dim Mirror <U>'90 20v 90q:</U> -RS2 Headlights -16" Borbets -Manual Climate Swap -Concert Headunit -Quattro Scripts (Auto to manual swap) -034 Injectors -B4 Hood Conversion <U>'93 100CS:</U> -Bad Headgaskets/leaky steering rack -FWD/Auto Garbage

11-23-2003, 04:33 PM	#3
JeromeS. Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,462	Never heard of an in car procedure. Remove the head and have it rebuilt or replace it with a known good one. The valve stem seals are cheap. Also, I personally don't see how you could do it yourself if you don't have a spring compressor (you can find them for cheap sometimes). Hope it works out for you! __________________ '87 4kcsq. Pretty N Stock..rocking 272k!! '06 Suzuki GSXR1000

11-23-2003, 05:10 PM	#4
RS4000 AudiWorld Senior Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,165	you cna't do it... the moment you get to the seals is the same moment the valve falls down into the __________________ 2000 A6q 4.2l 1998 A4q 30v [SOLD] 1985 VW GTI [SOLD] 1989 Audi 90 quattro. [SOLD] 1987 Audi 4000cs quattro [SOLD] 1986 Audi Coupe GT Commemorative Edition [SOLD] 1986 Audi 5000s Avant [SOLD] AIM: deadboyracer13 Y!: deadboyracer

11-23-2003, 05:40 PM	#5
Me_and_my_GT AudiWorld Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Jan 2002 Posts: 230	Seals can be done in car. I did 'em on a 1.8l Jetta You must have a valve spring compressor. Lisle makes one for about $25. It kind of sucks, but you're not a mechanic using it every day. For occasional use, it's fine. It kind of resembles a lever style wine bottle opener/corker. You must keep the valves from falling in. I take no responsibility if you screw up and it happens! Method 1: Starting with all the spark plugs removed and #1 cyl at BDC (bottom dead center), feed a high quality rope (one that doesn't leave lint or melt in gas/oil) into the spark plug hole until you can't feed it anymore. MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE SOME HANGING OUT WITH WHICH TO REMOVE IT! Rotate the crankshaft with a wrench (do NOT use the starter) until you can't/it's very snug. The rope has now bunched up in the combustion chamber to keep the valves from falling in when you remove the spring keepers and seals. After you've replaced the seals and springs on that cyl., back the crank up, pull the rope out and move to the next. Method 2: If you have access to an air compressor, you can get a "chuck" of sorts that screws into your spark plug hole. The idea is that you compress the cyl with high pressure air (75-100 psi) to hold the valves closed. This is a more elegant method, but not everyone has an air compressor (not one of those silly tire inflators) and I can't remember where one can get the air adapter. I suppose you could fashion something from an old plug with a little patience and a hammer. Or maybe out of compression tester parts. Also, the potential to screw up and let the valve fall in is a bit higher this way if you're not careful. Release the pressure to early by accident and you just bought yourself a head gasket kit (have fun popping the head off!). Just remember, do one cylinder at a time. In all honesty, if you need new seals, doing the whole head isn't a bad idea, but if you're bent on keeping the head where it is, the rope method works. (So does air, but I haven't done it personally) Doug Doug

11-23-2003, 05:44 PM	#6
jcs182 New Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Jul 2001 Posts: 335	Replacing them on the car isn't too hard I have done it 2 ways. Pull the plug and screw ina fitting that allows you to put comressed air into the cylinder. You can then take the springs and stuff off without the valve falling in. The fitting will likely set you back $20. The cheapo way is to pull the plug. With the piston off of TDC, you stuff as much Rope (clothes-line) into the cylinder. You the rotate the engine BY HAND to bring the piston up and compress the rope against the valves. Repeat for as many cylinders as you have. Good Luck, __________________ slocumjon@gmail.com

Welcome to AudiWorld!
		Welcome to AudiWorld.com. You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join AudiWorld.com today!

11-23-2003, 09:26 PM	#7
ddg=shinebox racing AudiWorld Super User 1984 Audi Coupe Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Los Angeles/Burbank Posts: 6,729	Don't be cheap... "Pull the trigger" and get a valve job done!!!! Your gides are probably shot too, I was going through about a quart every 250mi. with my old engine, when I pulled it out I could see all the crap that had built up in the combution chamber and behind the exhaust valves! A valve jod will make you car feel like new again!!!! __________________

11-23-2003, 09:53 PM	#8
CGTBrad AudiWorld Super User Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 8,994	What'll a valve job run me? __________________ ---------------------------------------- Brad B. Nashville 1987.5 CGT 2.3 Special Build 2001 TT 225

11-24-2003, 08:34 AM	#9
budpalumbo AudiWorld Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 208	Re: Oil consumption and alternator q's You can do the seals in the car, but you will need a spring compressor to remove the keepers. You keep the valves from falling in the motor by doing one at a time with the piston all the way up and a differential pressure tester or some other way to hold air pressure in the cylinder while doing the seals. If you bump a valve, it will loose psi and drop, but that is why the piston is up. The bigger concern I have is that if the seals are leaking that bad, your valve guides are 99% shot and need to be replaced. New seals will stop the leak for a week or so.

11-24-2003, 11:06 PM	#10
ddg=shinebox racing AudiWorld Super User 1984 Audi Coupe Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Los Angeles/Burbank Posts: 6,729	Depends... $150-$300...... __________________

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode