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#1 | ||
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New Member
Garage is empty, add now
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 477
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#2 |
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,135
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unless you have a spring compressor, and know how to use it.
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#3 |
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New Member
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 317
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You can do it without special tools.
However, you'll need a impact wrench, if you don't have the special tool to remove the top nut. I do have the special tools, and I don't do cars for a living, but I can replace the front struts in less than 2 hours. The max a professional should charge you is 2 labor hours. While at it, check the front top bearings. They are normally shot if it was never done, and you shouldn't pay any extra for the labor. If you're going to tackle it, get a Bentley. Good Luck, CS |
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#4 |
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I can probally rent one for a decnet price at the local auto zone. Those guys know me buy name now.
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#5 |
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2002
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i sh*t you not. it is VERY important that you use a spring compressor. if you don't believe me, see what happens when and if you get it apart.
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#6 |
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You'll need a tool to separate the tie-rod from the strut, mine looks like a big two-prong fork but there are other styles.
Once you get the strut out of the car you need a bench vise to hold the strut while you compress the springs to take them off. Then you 'll need a BF Pipewrench to take off the cap that holds the strut in the housing. When you go to put it back into the car, you'll need a special tool to put the strut nut back on while holding the strut shaft still. Good luck Dave G.
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87 4000 Q 86 VW Scirocco |
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#7 |
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#8 |
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The labor books call for 7.5 hours to do all 4 shocks/struts. It looks like he's charging you for exactly that. Any half way decent mechanic can put them in in 3 hours. Mine charged me 3.5 hours @ $60 per hour to do my install (I provided the parts), so my labor to install a set of Boge TurboGas was about $200...
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Dave My former Audi: 1987 Coupe GT Special Build 2.3 (H4s, custom exhaust, Borbet Type Es with Yoko AVS ES100s tires, Recaro Trophy seats, Euro 90 Sport 3 spoke steering wheel, 4Kq swaybar, Boge TurboGas struts/shocks, Eibach springs from a Typ89 sedan, Kenwood Bazooka & Blaupunkt stero system, R134a converted AC blowing 34*F, 35% metalic charcoal tint, fresh paint in original Anthracite Black) 2003 Infiniti G35 1993 RX7 - R1 (shared toy, stock)
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#9 |
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Here is what I observe:
1) You are supposed to have the special tool to get the nut off of the top of the assembly. I bought a used set up, but the nut needed to be tightened on one. I simply tapped it around wit a drift. 2) Often, you can bring the removed parts and the new parts to a suspension shop and they will R&R the spring and insert for you. You do the rest of the dirty work. 3) This is when you want to change the tie-rod ends and the ball joints. We had to heat the hell out of one of the tie-rod ends to get it to come off. 4) Once you do this, you will need an alignment. Aaron |
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#10 |
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Junior Member
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That way you will only be doing this once. I would also buy some upper strut bearings (mounts)while you are at it. Once my car comes back from its clutch install, I'm moving on to the suspension. The H&R are enroute and the Koni's will be here soon.
An impact and a blowtorch are all the tools you need.
__________________
Aaron Cincinnati, OH 2001 TT 225 blk/blk(13.6@98mph w/1.7 60') 3" CB with Flowmaster and H&R Coilovers 1992 Passat Wagon aka: the draggin wagon
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