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Old 06-03-2007, 06:06 PM   #1
Chad T
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Default EZ 200 Dash Switch Illumination Repair With Lots O' Pics

Hey Guys & Gals,

Car is running pretty well and I got bored this weekend so I decided to treat her to some new switch illumination.

I found a few DIYs on this that were very helpful but none specific to the 200 so I decided to photograph everything and do a breif how to.

This was way easier than I thought it would be from reading how to do it. Hopefully these pics will make it seem as easy as it is.

I'll start with the seat heater lights:

First thing to do is remove the switch. Just gently pry on the top and bottom until it comes out. You have to reach back in there a bit to avoid just pulling the outer switch cover off.

Once it's loose you can pull it out and seperate the switch assembly from the harness connector with a screwdriver.

Click the image to open in full size.

Next find a nice clean spot to dis-assemble the switch and do some soldering. I used the kitchen table.

Getting the switch apart is one of the more difficult operations. You need to pry it with a knife or something thin. It's not hard to get apart it's just hard to get anything in there.

Click the image to open in full size.

Be careful not to lose these clips as they tend to fall out.

Click the image to open in full size.

This is what the inside of the switch looks like when you get the cover off.
Click the image to open in full size.

Now you just have to seperate the circuit board from the switch. It's held together with some melted plastic pins.
Click the image to open in full size.

I tried cutting them but this was very awkward and not very effective. A small screwdriver under the pins workes perfect. Just a little twist pops them loose easily.
Click the image to open in full size.

Just lift the switch assembly off the board to expose the bulb.
Click the image to open in full size.

It's best to leave the roller inside the red plastic piece and set it aside like this.
Click the image to open in full size.

I took the first one apart and then remembered hearing about this little ball that always gets lost. Of course when I looked it was gone but luckily it landed in my lap.
Click the image to open in full size.

Back in it's proper place.
Click the image to open in full size.

OK time to get that bulb out. This requires a 30 watt soldering iron and a solder sucker. You could also use a wick but I like the sucker much better. Soldering iron was $4.95 with a case, solder and a stand and the sucker was $1.65 from an on line electronics place so don't be afraid to go out and get these.

All you have to do is carefully heat the solder until it's liquid and then hit it with the sucker. The sucker will pull the solder right out.
Click the image to open in full size.

Here the bulb is free and you can see the solder that came out of the sucker.
Click the image to open in full size.

Radio shack 12v 60mA bulb is pretty much an exact match. I had gotten this info from some of the existing write-ups. $1.49 for 2. I splurged and got 4 which was all they had.
Click the image to open in full size.

I left the leads on the bulb long until I got it soldered. Made it easy to hold the switch at a good angle for soldering. Note the plastic sleeve re-installed on one leg of the bulb.
Click the image to open in full size.

To solder the bulb I just heated what was there and then added a bit.
Click the image to open in full size.

Now just cut the excess off of the bulb leads, set the switch back on the board and slide it back in to the housing. The housing will be holding the switch together since the red melt pins are gone. Works fine as it's a nice tight fit.
Click the image to open in full size.

Time to re-install the switch. Previous writed ups said to either remove the radio or an adjacent switch to hold the plug which is now pretty much dangling behind the dash.
Click the image to open in full size.

I just grabbed it with some needle nosed pliers and then wedged it with a screwdriver to hold it in place so the switch could be pushed on to the plug. This worked out very well.
Click the image to open in full size.

That's pretty much all there is to it. Did both switches in about 45 minutes or so. Very easy...but not as easy as the lights in the other switches.


I actually removed the anti-lock switch and took it in the house and dis-assembled it before I realized you can simply pull the cover off and change the bulb. It has a different bulb from the heater switches. The bulb simply pulls out.
This has to be the simplest Audi interior bulb change there is.

1. Pry off switch cover.
Click the image to open in full size.

2.Pull out bulb with pliers
Click the image to open in full size.

3.Buy 12v 1.2w small bulbs at local FLAPS.
Click the image to open in full size.

4. Insert new bulbs and push switch cover back on.


Now enjoy full dash switch illumination!!
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

P.S. Should my Anti-lock switch be lit all the time?
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Old 06-03-2007, 06:21 PM   #2
sieben
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Default beautiful information and detail. will come in handy when the V8 needs the same :thumbup:

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Old 06-03-2007, 06:49 PM   #3
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Default Good stuff. Anti-lock shouldn't have a bulb on the bottom, it is not made to light up

when activated.
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Old 06-03-2007, 06:58 PM   #4
Chad T
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Default Should the top be lit without the lights on though?

It stays on all the time. If I push the button it goes out for a second and comes back on. Is that normal?

I might have to read the owners manual.
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Old 06-03-2007, 07:04 PM   #5
Adam Mowafy
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Default I believe the light that goes on and off for anti lock is in the cluster. At least on the 5k....

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Old 06-03-2007, 07:54 PM   #6
Chad T
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Default Looks like it's normal. Just not used to having it lit up.

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Old 06-03-2007, 09:28 PM   #7
20VT90q
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Default Normal, as are the lights in the seat heater buttons.

That's why they burn out so often;-(
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<U>Project '93 Urs4</U>
-8/'92 Build Date ~Rear Sway/Suspension~
-Suspicion of a chip (cut carpet)

ON THE BED: H&amp;R's, '92 trip computer cluster, Sport Wheel, TDS-1, E-code Headlights, Euro Bumper, A8 Interior Auto-Dim Mirror

<U>'90 20v 90q:</U>
-RS2 Headlights
-16" Borbets
-Manual Climate Swap
-Concert Headunit
-Quattro Scripts (Auto to manual swap)
-034 Injectors
-B4 Hood Conversion

<U>'93 100CS:</U>
-Bad Headgaskets/leaky steering rack
-FWD/Auto Garbage
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Old 06-03-2007, 09:39 PM   #8
20VT90q
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Default same as all the other cars ;-) (100/V8/urs4/90/etc.)

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<U>Project '93 Urs4</U>
-8/'92 Build Date ~Rear Sway/Suspension~
-Suspicion of a chip (cut carpet)

ON THE BED: H&amp;R's, '92 trip computer cluster, Sport Wheel, TDS-1, E-code Headlights, Euro Bumper, A8 Interior Auto-Dim Mirror

<U>'90 20v 90q:</U>
-RS2 Headlights
-16" Borbets
-Manual Climate Swap
-Concert Headunit
-Quattro Scripts (Auto to manual swap)
-034 Injectors
-B4 Hood Conversion

<U>'93 100CS:</U>
-Bad Headgaskets/leaky steering rack
-FWD/Auto Garbage
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Old 06-04-2007, 06:37 AM   #9
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Default Well done Chad! Looks great. Will def keep this post for future ref...

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Old 06-04-2007, 07:03 AM   #10
audi-bahston
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Default What is the function of the little ball in the seat heater switch?

One of my switches has tension when you roll the wheel and the other doesn't. Could this be missing the ball?

Very nice write up!!

TIA
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Old 06-04-2007, 07:03 AM
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