onebrokenneck

So I finally got the pesky broken clutch pedal out of the car tonight. That was the biggest PITA ever ever ever. You must be a contortionist or have a chiropracter on call if you ever need to do it. A highly useful tool to have handy is a set of spreader snapring pliers with 90 deg bent tips. The spring clips on the main pivot and the return spring are extremely tough to reach. Both clips have two little circles formed on springs that allow you to open them up with the snap ring pliers and slide off of their shafts. I was able to get the spring clip off the master cylinder with out any tools.

I had previously posted asking if the clutch pedal from an '88 5000 would work in a '89 200. The general consensus was that there would be no reason it wouldn't work as the two parts share the same number. They do have the same number but each have a different letter at the end of the part number. So, the two clutch pedals are different and I don't want to go through all the trouble of installing the new/used one if it will screw something up.

The one that came out of the car has an extra bit of casting that would prevent you from depressing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. It also has a large plastic bushing for the main pivot. Everything else seems to be dimensionally the same.

<img src="http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g13/onebrokenneck/Audi%20pics/BrokenClutchPedal2.jpg">
The one on the left is the 200 and the one on the right is the 5000 clutch pedal. For reference, all pictures have the same orientation.

<img src="http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g13/onebrokenneck/Audi%20pics/BrokenClutchPedal1.jpg">
This image shows an overview of both pedals.

<img src="http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g13/onebrokenneck/Audi%20pics/BrokenClutchPedal3.jpg">
This picture shows the two different bushings. On one side only, the 5000 has an aluminum reinforcement around the busing. On a side note, the bushing from the 200 was badly cracked with no aluminum reinforcement. The 5000 had no cracks in the bushing. According to Shokan, most 200 clutch pedals have broken bushings. Their asking price is $65.00 for one with a broken bushing. This view also shows a close-up of the broken clutch master cylinder mounting point.

<img src="http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g13/onebrokenneck/Audi%20pics/BrokenClutchPedal4.jpg">
I tried to get the part numbers in this photo but they didn't turn out. The '88 5000 pedal is 443 721 323 E and the '89 200 pedal is 443 721 323 J.

Now for the questions:

1. So my main concern is the extra bit of casting that would limit clutch pedal travel. If I used the 5000 pedal, is it possible that the master cylinder may suffer some damage? I tend to be heavy footed on clutches which is probably what got me into this mess in the first place. One option would be to weld on a block to match the 200 (not sure about welding on cast aluminum or wether the weld would just make the pedal weaker in a different spot). Another option would be to add a stopper to the floor like I think the brake pedal features? Maybe it's the gas pedal.

2. I have been wondering if the older steel clutch pedals shared all the same mounting points for the return spring, pivot, and master. Does anyone know if it's possible to swap in a steel pedal?

3. When I finally got the return spring off the clutch pedal, it blew apart from the spring pressure. The service manual references an Audi special tool 3112 or 3114 I think, to either remove or install the return spring. Does anyone know if this can be done without the special tool?

Well, hopefully this gets more responses than my last post. None the less, there is probably information in this post that will help someone else down the road. Maybe some of you can add some more helpful bits or come up with a good working solution for my problem.

4x5x5

I understand where your coming from R&amp;R wise. Try the same thing on a 1970 Vette! As fas as the extra casting goes, it looks like the internally cast webbing is identical to the original. "I" would think nothing of grinding the extra off should the rest of the pedal fit. Your clutch should catch much higher than that in the travel anyway if the rest of the system is up to snuff. (of course Audi put the extar there for some unknown reason.) My biggest concern would be that the mounting ear doesn't look any more robust on the replacement than the original. With extremmely light action of well functioning Audi clutches, one wonders why this (and others including a previously owned 200 20V) break at all.

urqisgood

The problem seems to be that the pressure plate springs go bad on some cars. My broken pedal on a 200Q was caused by this.
Too much pressure on the casting, boom!

That used pedal might break on the first push, go get a new one, then set up to get the clutch replaced.

The pedal and spring combo is a pain to replace, you don't want to do that one over and over.

onebrokenneck

The clutch feels normal. It is not excessively stiff. I think with how whimpy the ear is, they are prone to failure from poor engineering. The stiff clutch issue in some cars may help it along. Also, my aforementioned heavy footedness on clutches is most likely the contributing factor in my problem. I also broke a clutch cable stop in my old '81 Jetta. Also a PITA to work on under the dash. It really needed to be re-welded onto the firewall but I didn't want to gut all of the carpet/insulation that would potentially catch on fire. So I used my trusty 1500 psi epoxy and glued it back in place. I didn't get it in quite the right spot but it held up for the rest of the time I owned the car. Should have learned my lesson and changed my ways at that point but no.

If the clutch pedals were available new, I would probably buy one at this point but they are no longer available from Audi. I have checked many other sources looking for new or new old stock and came up empty handed. If you know somewhere I can get one, let me know.

Did you have to use the Audi special tool to install the return spring?

onebrokenneck

The issue is that the extra bit of material is on my broken pedal from my 200 wagon. The replacement I bought does not have the extra material. If I install the replacement, I would be able to depress the clutch further than possible with the original stock one. Seems like there may be an issue with the travel of the master or return spring but as I have no experience with this matter, I can't say for sure. Maybe they added the extra material to relieve stress on the master from fully bottoming it out. Anyone know for sure or have an edjucated guess?

urqisgood

I didn't have any of the special tools, I don't remember exactly how I got it back in there.
Sorry to hear the pedals are now NLA, that's going to send cars to the junkyard pretty quickly. The pedal is obviously poorly designed.

Make sure you get that thing adjusted correctly, that will also tear it up quickly.

Kneale Brownson

Impex lists a new clutch pedal for Part# 443 721 315J<ul><li><a href="http://www.worldimpex.com/search_by_partno.html?searchmode=partno&amp;partno =443+721+315J&amp;x=29&amp;y=8">clutch pedal</a></li></ul>

S4for73

tHERE IS A PICTURE STFA, It shows a homemade override spring replacement tool. Under clutch master cyl. etc.

SteveAngry

Thats cool, I tried ordering one from the dealer and they say NLA...

SteveAngry

We just took the replacement spring, carefully put it in a vise and compressed it. Then we took high quality zip ties and cinched them down. Worked fine for us. Install and then cut the ties.

Now if you're squimish about the zip ties letting go(we were) you could use something more substantial like wire.

Be careful, wear safty glasses and gloves, YMMV, etc...

Steve
Michigan