Motor and trans are finally out...

kday · 10-08-2007, 07:38 AM

I didn't figure out how the driver's side engine mount attached until I had the motor out. I was able to get the four bolts holding the mount to the block off, but even with that the mount tore when I pulled the motor. Not a big deal, the mounts were shot anyway.

Summary: Remove latch plate, bumper, AC condenser, radiator. Remove intake manifold (for easy access) and disconnect all hoses and electrical connectors from engine. Drop the exhaust, remove the heatshield, unbolt the rear driveshaft and reinstall the brace for it to sit on. Remove shift cable and three electrical connectors from transmission. Unbolt the front axles, unbolt the front beam between the frame rails, undo engine and trans mount bolts, pull motor up and forward. With everything half out remove the driver's side trans mount bracket to clear the axle. Aside from all the time spent on my back on a greasy floor, not that bad of a job.

Other than that not much to report. Exhaust bolts all either broke or had to be cut. The exhaust on the A6 is a real pain in the ***. It was a lot harder to get off than the S4 exhaust was, which is funny, since the S4 exhaust is bigger and comes out in one piece instead of two. I ended up cutting off one of the rubber muffler hangers. I got tired of fighting with it. We'll see if I miss that when everything is back together.

Getting all those CV bolts out was much more fun with an air ratchet. I hated that part of the S4 clutch job.

I am wrestling with spending another $150+ on new heater hoses. The receipt pile for this job is growing to unreasonable proportions.

4Driver4 · 10-08-2007, 10:51 AM

I did on my recent auto trans job, so rather than drill and tap, I just drilled oversize and dropped bolts down from above.

DaveInSaltLake · 10-08-2007, 11:00 AM

place a nut over the broken stud, even if it's flush with the head. Weld the nut to the end of the broken stud, fill the nut full of weld. Add penetrating oil liberally, heat a bit, and back the stud out by turning the nut.

It's essentially welding a bolt head onto a broken bolt.

kday · 10-08-2007, 11:01 AM

I am going to drill them out too, or use the air injection manifolds from the newer motor. I don't remember for sure but I think that just has a flange with bolt holes and no studs.

kday · 10-08-2007, 11:03 AM

I didn't -- about half came out of the head before the nut gave way, but nothing broke. I think Tom was referring to the studs on the outlet end of the manifolds, that the cat pipes bolt to.

4Driver4 · 10-08-2007, 11:25 AM

I think it's easier just to drill them out in this particular application.

10-08-2007, 10:51 AM	#2
4Driver4 Tech Guru Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 32,303	Did you break the studs on the exhaust manifolds? I did on my recent auto trans job, so rather than drill and tap, I just drilled oversize and dropped bolts down from above. __________________ 4Driver4 "Never give up the throttle until the bitter end." -RC 2005 A6 Sedan Q 3.2 (wife's whip) 2000 A4 Avant Q 2.8 (daily driver) 2003 Mini Cooper S (Fun!) 1995 Mazda Miata: the anti-Audi 1999 Mazda Miata SSB: track beotch 2003 GMC Yukon Denali XL: the anti-earth 2004 Dodge Dakota: hey, at least it's stick and 4x4

10-08-2007, 11:00 AM	#3
DaveInSaltLake AudiWorld Super User Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: beside the Great Salty Wetspot Posts: 4,901	A cool trick I learned from an exhaust mechanic in Seattle is... place a nut over the broken stud, even if it's flush with the head. Weld the nut to the end of the broken stud, fill the nut full of weld. Add penetrating oil liberally, heat a bit, and back the stud out by turning the nut. It's essentially welding a bolt head onto a broken bolt. __________________ ************************ vBullet killed the internet star (sung to the tune of 'video killed the radio star')

10-08-2007, 11:01 AM	#4
kday AudiWorld Super User Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 5,247	Yes... I think one out of the six came apart without breaking. I am going to drill them out too, or use the air injection manifolds from the newer motor. I don't remember for sure but I think that just has a flange with bolt holes and no studs. __________________ 1994 S4 with stuff 1996 A6q Avant with no stuff 1990 Miata with a little stuff

10-08-2007, 11:03 AM	#5
kday AudiWorld Super User Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 5,247	I don't think either of us broke the studs going from the head to the manifold... I didn't -- about half came out of the head before the nut gave way, but nothing broke. I think Tom was referring to the studs on the outlet end of the manifolds, that the cat pipes bolt to. __________________ 1994 S4 with stuff 1996 A6q Avant with no stuff 1990 Miata with a little stuff

10-08-2007, 11:25 AM	#6
4Driver4 Tech Guru Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 32,303	Right. I never touched them. ...but his method would work on the flange studs too. I think it's easier just to drill them out in this particular application. __________________ 4Driver4 "Never give up the throttle until the bitter end." -RC 2005 A6 Sedan Q 3.2 (wife's whip) 2000 A4 Avant Q 2.8 (daily driver) 2003 Mini Cooper S (Fun!) 1995 Mazda Miata: the anti-Audi 1999 Mazda Miata SSB: track beotch 2003 GMC Yukon Denali XL: the anti-earth 2004 Dodge Dakota: hey, at least it's stick and 4x4

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10-08-2007, 11:25 AM
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