RS6er

I can't find the link to the A6 tailgate removal trim posted about a month ago. Been searching for an hour. Also are the bolt heads (csk, whatever that means) that hold the inside tailgate release on of a special type. They seem like Allens only with 5 sides instead of 6. Does this latch have to come off before you can remove the lower trim panel (behind the taillight bulbs)?

John
95 A6 QA

UrS4boy

few tricks that will save you broken plastic.

DaveInSaltLake

in both the A6 and S-cars FAQs<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/74488.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/74488.phtml</a</li></ul>

UrS4boy

Dan Hussey wrote: The tailgate trim on the Avant is absolutely the most sinister piece of interior trim I have ever removed. It is simply Evil. I'd like to contribute the following explanation to the Avant owners. Take my word, and archive the following description. Otherwise, you will most likely break various parts off your tailgate trim if you ever need to go in there. TRUST ME!!!

First, remove the two screws holding the two hooks for the sun screen. Then, unsnap the top middle piece in four locations. Unsnap L and R side plastic pieces by pulling the trim pieces towards center.

Next, remove the 2 black screws underneath the latch and one screw on each side of the bottom panel. Pop out the secret flap type compartments of the lateral parts of the carpeted section with a flat screwdriver. These hidden compartments correspond to an area behind each tailight. Unscrew one HIDDEN screw behind each secret panel. (NOTE from D.F.: These screws are hidden behind some cloth material AFTER you open the hinged panel. The hidden screws are located in the upper, outer corner of each of the secret flap openings, beneath some cloth. Poke your Phillips screw driver through the cloth to access the screws&gt

Now, at the bottom of the handle trim below the torx screws are two very small holes. Find a thin long object like a nail and push in to the two holes. (I told you this was evil). When you've pushed them down far enough the handle trim will simply separate from the tailgate trim. YOU DO NOT NEED TO TAKE OUT THE TORX SCREWS IN THE DOOR HANDLE. (NOTE From D.F.: If you don't depress the tabs as described above, and just yank the trim, you will break the tabs. The replacement trim is $$$).

Now, careful pulling in different sections top and bottom should free up the whole thing. You can also reach in and pinch the inner portion of the clamp while pulling that portion of the panel out. The whole thing falls right in to your hands.

Re-installing, should be somewhat of a reversal of the removal procedure found above.

(Note from austinado16: If you line everything with self-adheasive fuzzy side of a velcro kit, the hatch panels won't squeak and creak anymore. I also put it around all the locations in the metal hatch where a metal tang from the upholstery panel engages the body.)

Hope this helps someone out there.
Dan Hussey

UrS4boy

I just added a couple of things. See above.

islingtonaudi

For starters, you'll need a some small torx bits, Phillips head screwdriver(s), a flat wide putty knife (the cheap yellow kind at Home Depot work well) and a lot of patience.
Take out the top two hangers for the rear sun shade, take out the visible allen head screws around the window trim and at the bottom on both outer sides and the two screws under the lock.
Once all the screws are out you can -gently- from the top on each side flex the trim in to the middle to pop it loose. Do both sides and then the same thing on the top piece, flex it inward every 6 inches or so to pop it loose. Once those 3 pieces are off you can tackle the more substantial trim that's held in place with metal springs. Using the wide spatula thing you can pop those springs out of their holes.
Next you have to access the hidden doors of the interior panels in the hatch, they basically are hinged and if you use your spatula on the outer edge of each panel you can get ahold of the panel and hinge it open, revealing more screws as I recall. The worst part is the latch itself, it's held in place by two very breakable plastic clips. The faq said to put a thin coat hanger or something in the small slots below the torx screws and not touch those screws at all. By pushing in you're supposed to pop them loose and avoid breakage, I tried this and upon later inspection I don't think such a technique would have worked anyway. I got it off but unfortunately I broke one of the tabs but the latch still works fine.
Austinado16 has a great suggestion to put fuzzy industrial Velcro on the metal edge of the hatch where those plastic trim pieces rest. Doing so will kill the rattles, I have zero now and I also
I put some sound deadening on the back panel behind those hinged sections and the sheet metal too. Nice and quiet! Also spend some time and clean up and use a good plastic dressing like Adams VRT or Aerospace 303 on those pieces before reinstalling them, it will look much nicer and they're tough to detail on the car.
I hope this helps, I forget all the steps but the guy who originally posted this on the S-Cars Forum was a big help.

RS6er

Many thanks. So you don't have to remove the torx screws in the inner latch?

UrS4boy

No. The inner latch stays in place (you just remove the trim around it).

UrS4boy

Allen head screw drivers??? Huh?? Did you mean Phillips (+) ??

islingtonaudi

You're absolutely correct, sir. Too many beers last night (I'm on vacation.)