View Poll Results: Do you prefer the OLD FAQ?
I want the OLD FAQ back!
4
100.00%
I like the NEW FORMAT
0
0%
Voters: 4. You may not vote on this poll
AUDI A4 | B5 | 8D 1996 - 2001 FAQ Frequently Asked Questions and Common Problems Thread Collection
11-21-2006, 04:17 PM
#492
Options decoder
and another one: <a href="http://bitnet.ro/vw/prdecoder/">http://bitnet.ro/vw/prdecoder/</a><ul><li><a href="http://igorweb.org/equidec/Default.aspx">http://igorweb.org/equidec/Default.aspx</a</li></ul>
11-21-2006, 05:04 PM
#494
AudiWorld Super User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,755
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Speed/RPM Calculator
<ul><li><a href="http://www.car-videos.com/tools/speedrpm.asp?Car=Select&Num1=205&Num2=55&a mp;Num3=16&AxleRatio=3.889&Ratio1=3.778&am p;Ratio2=2.176&Ratio3=1.429&Ratio4=1.029&a mp;Ratio5=.838&Ratio6=&Ratio7=&Redline =
11-27-2006, 02:38 PM
#495
Little or No Heat with an Older B5: Flushing the Heater Core
If you've turned your heat up all the way, but the air coming out of the heater vents isn't very warm, and you have an older vehicle, you may have a blocked or partially blocked heater core. It's a common problem with many older vehicles.
If there's a major blockage, only one of the heater hoses (the one putting coolant into the heater) will be warm after the vehicle has warmed up and the heater is on. But major blockages are rare. Usually the core just needs a good flushing. And often flushing can clear even a major blockage.
If the carpet under the dash is wet, or you smell coolant and see vapor coming out of the vents, your heater core is probably leaking and should not be flushed.
Flushing is fairly easy. You'll need some corks, some hose clamps, about 10 feet of heater hose, a large bucket, and a garden hose repair kit with a female coupling.
First, fabricate two short hoses. One (the drain hose) only needs to be long enough to reach from the firewall to a large bucket near the vehicle. The second (the flush hose) doesn't even have to be that long. It will need the female hose coupling installed on one end so you can attach your garden hose to it.
Once you have your two hoses made, remove the two heater hoses going to the core at the firewall. Use the corks to plug them up so coolant won't drain from the engine. Attach your new fabricated hoses where you disconnected the originals. It doesn't matter which one goes where unless there's a major blockage, in which case the flush hose starts off on the OUTFLOW point from the core.
Before connecting a garden hose to the flush hose you made, run the water to get an idea of the pressure that will be flowing into the heater. You don't want a lot of pressure because you risk causing a leak in the core. Better to use too little pressure at first and then turn it up as needed.
With the drain hose in your bucket, turn on the water. Flush until the water runs clear out of the heater. Because coolant is sweet, it attracts animals. They die a painful death when they ingest coolant. Please don't drain the coolant on the ground! Please dispose of it correctly!
Now, reverse the flush and drain hoses on the core connectors to flush in the opposite direction. Again, flush until the water runs out clear.
Reattach the original heater hoses, add some coolant, and you're done.
If your B5 isn't very old and the lack of heat problem comes on suddenly, suspect the vehicle thermostat stuck open and therefore not allowing the coolant to reach operating temperature. Also, run the VAG diagnostics on the climate control system to see if any of the flaps that control the air flow are sticking.
Edit: Shameless lift from a post by RKA:
If the coolant is thick or muddy in the coolant reservoir or coming out of one of the coolant hoses, you probably have oil mixed with the coolant. The most common cause of this is a failed oil cooler. In that case, the entire cooling system needs to be flushed with a commercial grade cooling system cleaner after you've fixed the problem; the oil-coolant mixture will form sludge throughout the engine, and you have a much bigger issue than just the heater core.
If there's a major blockage, only one of the heater hoses (the one putting coolant into the heater) will be warm after the vehicle has warmed up and the heater is on. But major blockages are rare. Usually the core just needs a good flushing. And often flushing can clear even a major blockage.
If the carpet under the dash is wet, or you smell coolant and see vapor coming out of the vents, your heater core is probably leaking and should not be flushed.
Flushing is fairly easy. You'll need some corks, some hose clamps, about 10 feet of heater hose, a large bucket, and a garden hose repair kit with a female coupling.
First, fabricate two short hoses. One (the drain hose) only needs to be long enough to reach from the firewall to a large bucket near the vehicle. The second (the flush hose) doesn't even have to be that long. It will need the female hose coupling installed on one end so you can attach your garden hose to it.
Once you have your two hoses made, remove the two heater hoses going to the core at the firewall. Use the corks to plug them up so coolant won't drain from the engine. Attach your new fabricated hoses where you disconnected the originals. It doesn't matter which one goes where unless there's a major blockage, in which case the flush hose starts off on the OUTFLOW point from the core.
Before connecting a garden hose to the flush hose you made, run the water to get an idea of the pressure that will be flowing into the heater. You don't want a lot of pressure because you risk causing a leak in the core. Better to use too little pressure at first and then turn it up as needed.
With the drain hose in your bucket, turn on the water. Flush until the water runs clear out of the heater. Because coolant is sweet, it attracts animals. They die a painful death when they ingest coolant. Please don't drain the coolant on the ground! Please dispose of it correctly!
Now, reverse the flush and drain hoses on the core connectors to flush in the opposite direction. Again, flush until the water runs out clear.
Reattach the original heater hoses, add some coolant, and you're done.
If your B5 isn't very old and the lack of heat problem comes on suddenly, suspect the vehicle thermostat stuck open and therefore not allowing the coolant to reach operating temperature. Also, run the VAG diagnostics on the climate control system to see if any of the flaps that control the air flow are sticking.
Edit: Shameless lift from a post by RKA:
If the coolant is thick or muddy in the coolant reservoir or coming out of one of the coolant hoses, you probably have oil mixed with the coolant. The most common cause of this is a failed oil cooler. In that case, the entire cooling system needs to be flushed with a commercial grade cooling system cleaner after you've fixed the problem; the oil-coolant mixture will form sludge throughout the engine, and you have a much bigger issue than just the heater core.
12-01-2006, 11:15 AM
#496
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,955
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What To Do After You Totaled Off The Audi You Just Bought (wiki)
This is if your car has been totaled off by your insurance company and you still own it. I am by no means saying you should do any of the following, this is just a general guide to "how to get the most back."
First off, until you sign over the car it's yours. Never forget that. The insurance, can't touch the car or do anything to it without your consent. DO NOT sign it over until you are happy with the payout and have it in writing.
Some things you can do to "bump" up the value:
1) Provide receipts for everything you had modified on the car. Some insurance companies will pay you back a percentage of these modifications.
2) You can take your modifications off the car as long as you replace with stock parts.
(on a side note)A majority of insurance companies aren't going to notice if your upgraded anti sway bar is missing and you didn't replace it with stock.
3) Include receipts for any maintenance you had done. This includes if you bought oil to do an oil change. Any proof that the car was well maintained will add to the value of the car. Include pictures of the car at it's finest. I would/did compile these into a folder and dropped it off at my insurance adjusters desk. It was organized with pictures/receipts for modifications/receipts for maintenance. INCLUDE EVERY RECEIPT <---- Even if it's wax... it's up to the insurance to go through, it's not your problem.
4) Find vehicles of the same year and mileage in your area for sale. Insurance will look at those prices to help guide what your payout should be. Don't include them if it's really low, this will not help.
5) ALWAYS reject the first payout offer, and act like a pu$$y. Say this is the first car you've totaled and are not sure of the process, but the price they are offering seems really low.
6) This next step is risky, but I will offer it up as a suggestion. Talk to the manager of the insurance firm. Ask that you be switched to a different adjuster. Say they are making you feel detached from the process and you are worried the whole process is snowballing you. You just want to move on and get this done and over with. The reason why this will help is because one of three things will happen
a) you are switched over to a new adjuster and they will want to get you out of their hair as fast as possible because you are a whiney b!tch that can ruin the credibility of the adjuster. No one likes a bad report to their manager.
b) You will be asked to stay with your current adjuster but the manager will "talk" to them about their performance. This may cause the adjuster to raise the payout just so you are done and over with. Yes they will hate you, but they will grin and take it.
c) The bad news... they will fvck you over "yeah this guy wants to fvck with me.. lets see how he likes getting fvck all for his car"... this is a risky thing to do.. that's why it's kind of a last ditch resort.
7) Talk to the adjuster about how your "lawyer mentioned that" the car should be worth xxx amount. Make xxx amount seem kind of high.. and then say "but i think he may be wrong, even though he wants to go to court over this, i'd be much happier settling for xyx" xyx is the amount you actually want to be settled for.
8) Once you are near completion... and have a number you like.. and the insurance company is ready to get you to sign over... STOP. Say "my friend billy had his car privately appraised, and he said this helped because it showed a much more accurate representation of the vehicle." Insurance do not like these. Tell the insurance "but i don't know.. it would cost me 500$ to have it done... if you are willing to add the 500$ to the payout amount, i'd be willing to skip the appraisal." Usually they will just throw in the amount... or half of it.
9) If you really think you are getting screwed over, get the vehicle privately appraised. This could actually increase the amount by a large sum if the vehicle was well maintained.
By no means am i condoning this next point.. it's just something i heard some people do
10) Get receipts from friends with similar cars, for mods that your car didn't have. The insurance company will usually just pay out according to paper, and never actually check the car. Unless the payout is a very large amount. I DO NOT CONDONE THIS OR AM IN ANYWAY SAYING THIS IS LEGAL!
First off, until you sign over the car it's yours. Never forget that. The insurance, can't touch the car or do anything to it without your consent. DO NOT sign it over until you are happy with the payout and have it in writing.
Some things you can do to "bump" up the value:
1) Provide receipts for everything you had modified on the car. Some insurance companies will pay you back a percentage of these modifications.
2) You can take your modifications off the car as long as you replace with stock parts.
(on a side note)A majority of insurance companies aren't going to notice if your upgraded anti sway bar is missing and you didn't replace it with stock.
3) Include receipts for any maintenance you had done. This includes if you bought oil to do an oil change. Any proof that the car was well maintained will add to the value of the car. Include pictures of the car at it's finest. I would/did compile these into a folder and dropped it off at my insurance adjusters desk. It was organized with pictures/receipts for modifications/receipts for maintenance. INCLUDE EVERY RECEIPT <---- Even if it's wax... it's up to the insurance to go through, it's not your problem.
4) Find vehicles of the same year and mileage in your area for sale. Insurance will look at those prices to help guide what your payout should be. Don't include them if it's really low, this will not help.
5) ALWAYS reject the first payout offer, and act like a pu$$y. Say this is the first car you've totaled and are not sure of the process, but the price they are offering seems really low.
6) This next step is risky, but I will offer it up as a suggestion. Talk to the manager of the insurance firm. Ask that you be switched to a different adjuster. Say they are making you feel detached from the process and you are worried the whole process is snowballing you. You just want to move on and get this done and over with. The reason why this will help is because one of three things will happen
a) you are switched over to a new adjuster and they will want to get you out of their hair as fast as possible because you are a whiney b!tch that can ruin the credibility of the adjuster. No one likes a bad report to their manager.
b) You will be asked to stay with your current adjuster but the manager will "talk" to them about their performance. This may cause the adjuster to raise the payout just so you are done and over with. Yes they will hate you, but they will grin and take it.
c) The bad news... they will fvck you over "yeah this guy wants to fvck with me.. lets see how he likes getting fvck all for his car"... this is a risky thing to do.. that's why it's kind of a last ditch resort.
7) Talk to the adjuster about how your "lawyer mentioned that" the car should be worth xxx amount. Make xxx amount seem kind of high.. and then say "but i think he may be wrong, even though he wants to go to court over this, i'd be much happier settling for xyx" xyx is the amount you actually want to be settled for.
8) Once you are near completion... and have a number you like.. and the insurance company is ready to get you to sign over... STOP. Say "my friend billy had his car privately appraised, and he said this helped because it showed a much more accurate representation of the vehicle." Insurance do not like these. Tell the insurance "but i don't know.. it would cost me 500$ to have it done... if you are willing to add the 500$ to the payout amount, i'd be willing to skip the appraisal." Usually they will just throw in the amount... or half of it.
9) If you really think you are getting screwed over, get the vehicle privately appraised. This could actually increase the amount by a large sum if the vehicle was well maintained.
By no means am i condoning this next point.. it's just something i heard some people do
10) Get receipts from friends with similar cars, for mods that your car didn't have. The insurance company will usually just pay out according to paper, and never actually check the car. Unless the payout is a very large amount. I DO NOT CONDONE THIS OR AM IN ANYWAY SAYING THIS IS LEGAL!
Last edited by Kris Hansen; 04-29-2009 at 07:41 AM. Reason: added to wiki
12-14-2006, 02:35 PM
#498
Replacing the front speakers (bose system) MY01
Just a few quick notes about replacing the speakers in the front door. My Bose speakers (4") had blown so time to replace. I had no luck finding 2 ohm speakers, but was able to find some 4ohm which I was told should work fine, and have been working well. The speakers I found are 5 and 1/4" pioneer 2 way speakers.
When I did the passenger side I took the door panel off following the "Interior door handle replacement" tech article (tech, interior, 7th one down) (really easy), unconnecting all the wires. For the drivers side I decided it would be easier and less time consuming to leave all the wires plugged in, but I still disconnected the door cable. Letting the door panel hang down to the ground, push the panel towards the door frame and prop something behind the panel to hold it in place. This make the speaker easily accessable on the other side of the door.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/img_0023.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/img_0022.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/img_0021.jpg">
With the speaker exposed remove the red screws. As you have probably noticed there are three screws in triangular shape. The replacement speaker you have purchased most likely is square in shape.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/img_0024.jpg">
Stock Bose Speaker (triangle)
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/img_0026.jpg">
Pioneer 5 1/4" speaker (square)
As the picture shows, set the speaker in and screw the bottom two holes into what was the bottom two holes for the triangular speaker. Use washers with the screw to make sure you have snug grip on the speaker. The top is secured in by screwwing a screw w/ washer into the top triangle hole. Nothing actually goes thru the speaker, but the washer puts pressure on the speaker and clamps in tightly. The pic shows before I used bigger washer (top screw).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/img_0027.jpg">
The wire connections match right up. the larger one fit on, but my smaller one did not so I spliced in the connectors that came with my speakers. Red outlined wire shows this. The main things I recommend are to use the bigger 5 1/4" speaker and mount it like I did, it will fit in the triangular screw holes and stay put as long as they are tightened down well. Also avoiding disconnecting all the wires makes reassembly much easier and faster. I was not looking forward to guessing which window plugs are which...
Kingtr
When I did the passenger side I took the door panel off following the "Interior door handle replacement" tech article (tech, interior, 7th one down) (really easy), unconnecting all the wires. For the drivers side I decided it would be easier and less time consuming to leave all the wires plugged in, but I still disconnected the door cable. Letting the door panel hang down to the ground, push the panel towards the door frame and prop something behind the panel to hold it in place. This make the speaker easily accessable on the other side of the door.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/img_0023.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/img_0022.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/img_0021.jpg">
With the speaker exposed remove the red screws. As you have probably noticed there are three screws in triangular shape. The replacement speaker you have purchased most likely is square in shape.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/img_0024.jpg">
Stock Bose Speaker (triangle)
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/img_0026.jpg">
Pioneer 5 1/4" speaker (square)
As the picture shows, set the speaker in and screw the bottom two holes into what was the bottom two holes for the triangular speaker. Use washers with the screw to make sure you have snug grip on the speaker. The top is secured in by screwwing a screw w/ washer into the top triangle hole. Nothing actually goes thru the speaker, but the washer puts pressure on the speaker and clamps in tightly. The pic shows before I used bigger washer (top screw).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/91268/img_0027.jpg">
The wire connections match right up. the larger one fit on, but my smaller one did not so I spliced in the connectors that came with my speakers. Red outlined wire shows this. The main things I recommend are to use the bigger 5 1/4" speaker and mount it like I did, it will fit in the triangular screw holes and stay put as long as they are tightened down well. Also avoiding disconnecting all the wires makes reassembly much easier and faster. I was not looking forward to guessing which window plugs are which...
Kingtr
The following users liked this post:
Rhasbro (02-24-2022)
12-16-2006, 11:26 AM
#499
AudiWorld Super User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,178
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How to repair pitted and hazy headlights.
Complements of the S4 and Allroad forums:
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/2520989.phtml">How to repair pitted or hazy headlights.</a>
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/2520989.phtml">How to repair pitted or hazy headlights.</a>
