Newbie Audi 80 2.6 cold start problem
#11
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Further update
OK, it's really annoying me - it's still taking 2-3 times to start each morning or after it's been sitting for half a day.
I've cleaned the ISV, checked the fuel injectors today - no leaks - and have also double-checked the vacuum system (I checked the vacuum pressure just forward of the 3-way vacuum check valve in the morning and there was still vacuum pressure - a 'hissing sound' and sucking air for about 5 seconds). This vacuum pressure line led back into the passenger compartment.
I've ordered a code scanner to see what it reveals (the ebay cable thing wasn't very successful!).
Hmmm....
I've cleaned the ISV, checked the fuel injectors today - no leaks - and have also double-checked the vacuum system (I checked the vacuum pressure just forward of the 3-way vacuum check valve in the morning and there was still vacuum pressure - a 'hissing sound' and sucking air for about 5 seconds). This vacuum pressure line led back into the passenger compartment.
I've ordered a code scanner to see what it reveals (the ebay cable thing wasn't very successful!).
Hmmm....
#12
AudiWorld Senior Member
Starting with more questions...
Does your car have:
- a MAF; or a MAP type air-flow sensor;
- an EGR System;
- My question here is really, are the pollution controls always grouped together the same way, i.e. all (cats, EVAP etc.); or none?
I agree with LoudGold that it may be some sort of air leak, - how much vacuum does your engine pull at cold idle? But perhaps not necessarily vacuum though, how about un-metered air leaks such as:
- how's your Noise Damper to throttle-body gasket? See also the "telephone cord mod". Is the Damper cracked or missing hoses?
- OEM Cam-cover to Noise-Damper vent hoses cracked?
- Air meter to throttle-body air flex-hose loose/cracked/leaking seals?
- Adapter block for ISV to Intake-Manifold rubber coating crumbling?
- a MAF; or a MAP type air-flow sensor;
- an EGR System;
- My question here is really, are the pollution controls always grouped together the same way, i.e. all (cats, EVAP etc.); or none?
I agree with LoudGold that it may be some sort of air leak, - how much vacuum does your engine pull at cold idle? But perhaps not necessarily vacuum though, how about un-metered air leaks such as:
- how's your Noise Damper to throttle-body gasket? See also the "telephone cord mod". Is the Damper cracked or missing hoses?
- OEM Cam-cover to Noise-Damper vent hoses cracked?
- Air meter to throttle-body air flex-hose loose/cracked/leaking seals?
- Adapter block for ISV to Intake-Manifold rubber coating crumbling?
#13
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Alright, I had a look at the relays as I read somewhere that sometimes the solder joints on some of the relays may be weak and need to resoldered. I found 1 relay with a few suspect solder joints and resoldered them. The car started first time each time for the next week or so. I then replaced the old spark plugs NGK BKUR6ET-10 with Iridium ones NGK BKR6EIX-11 and now have the old start problem before although not as severe.
Your thoughts on these Iridiums? Should I go back to the BKUR6ET-10? Is there a known issue with these Iridiums?
Thanks.
Your thoughts on these Iridiums? Should I go back to the BKUR6ET-10? Is there a known issue with these Iridiums?
Thanks.
Does your car have:
- a MAF; or a MAP type air-flow sensor;
- an EGR System;
- My question here is really, are the pollution controls always grouped together the same way, i.e. all (cats, EVAP etc.); or none?
I agree with LoudGold that it may be some sort of air leak, - how much vacuum does your engine pull at cold idle? But perhaps not necessarily vacuum though, how about un-metered air leaks such as:
- how's your Noise Damper to throttle-body gasket? See also the "telephone cord mod". Is the Damper cracked or missing hoses?
- OEM Cam-cover to Noise-Damper vent hoses cracked?
- Air meter to throttle-body air flex-hose loose/cracked/leaking seals?
- Adapter block for ISV to Intake-Manifold rubber coating crumbling?
- a MAF; or a MAP type air-flow sensor;
- an EGR System;
- My question here is really, are the pollution controls always grouped together the same way, i.e. all (cats, EVAP etc.); or none?
I agree with LoudGold that it may be some sort of air leak, - how much vacuum does your engine pull at cold idle? But perhaps not necessarily vacuum though, how about un-metered air leaks such as:
- how's your Noise Damper to throttle-body gasket? See also the "telephone cord mod". Is the Damper cracked or missing hoses?
- OEM Cam-cover to Noise-Damper vent hoses cracked?
- Air meter to throttle-body air flex-hose loose/cracked/leaking seals?
- Adapter block for ISV to Intake-Manifold rubber coating crumbling?
#14
Iridiums are no good for these cars. The element is too small, causing too focused of a spark for the gas to ignite properly. Your car has "A-class" 2-hole injector nozzles that don't usually atomize as well as the upgraded "E-Class" 4-holers.
Go with good old standard NGK's or Bosch plugs for about $20. Or, look for a set of "E-Class" injector nozzles for $200.
Go with good old standard NGK's or Bosch plugs for about $20. Or, look for a set of "E-Class" injector nozzles for $200.
#16
AudiWorld Senior Member
Re: Vacuum measurement...
The vacuum that may be more critical for starting is that which can be measured right at the small Intake-manifold connection nearest the Fuel Pressure Regulator when the engine is warm at idle. This is both an indicator of what can be delivered to the FPR; and also tell you if intake-air is bypassing the air meter, throttle and ISV.
BTW, I'm very happy with my NGK Iridiums in my 12v, the p/n I'm using may be different due to mine being a 2.8.
Did you have any luck with this?
BTW, I'm very happy with my NGK Iridiums in my 12v, the p/n I'm using may be different due to mine being a 2.8.
Did you have any luck with this?
#17
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Cured???
Well, just to update you all - from the last time I was here until now I replaced the cam position sensor, fuel pump relay (with the updated version) and fuel filter (again!). I also dismantled the throttle body and cleaned it all out.
Then I read on the 'net about people having similar starting issues and that their solution was replacement of the fuel pressure regulator. So I bought a Bosch replacement regulator and replaced it earlier this week. Guess what? All good so far! No problems with starting! *fingers crossed*
Thanks for all your advice in the past!
Then I read on the 'net about people having similar starting issues and that their solution was replacement of the fuel pressure regulator. So I bought a Bosch replacement regulator and replaced it earlier this week. Guess what? All good so far! No problems with starting! *fingers crossed*
Thanks for all your advice in the past!
#18
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Another update: I've had no starting issues since replacing the fuel pressure regulator last year. A relatively cheap fix in the end but to find it was really a guessing game. Thanks again!
#19
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Fuel Injectors
Iridiums are no good for these cars. The element is too small, causing too focused of a spark for the gas to ignite properly. Your car has "A-class" 2-hole injector nozzles that don't usually atomize as well as the upgraded "E-Class" 4-holers.
Go with good old standard NGK's or Bosch plugs for about $20. Or, look for a set of "E-Class" injector nozzles for $200.
Go with good old standard NGK's or Bosch plugs for about $20. Or, look for a set of "E-Class" injector nozzles for $200.
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