alsies

OK, it's really annoying me - it's still taking 2-3 times to start each morning or after it's been sitting for half a day.
I've cleaned the ISV, checked the fuel injectors today - no leaks - and have also double-checked the vacuum system (I checked the vacuum pressure just forward of the 3-way vacuum check valve in the morning and there was still vacuum pressure - a 'hissing sound' and sucking air for about 5 seconds). This vacuum pressure line led back into the passenger compartment.
I've ordered a code scanner to see what it reveals (the ebay cable thing wasn't very successful!).
Hmmm....

Lago Blue

Does your car have:

- a MAF; or a MAP type air-flow sensor;
- an EGR System;
- My question here is really, are the pollution controls always grouped together the same way, i.e. all (cats, EVAP etc.); or none?

I agree with LoudGold that it may be some sort of air leak, - how much vacuum does your engine pull at cold idle? But perhaps not necessarily vacuum though, how about un-metered air leaks such as:

- how's your Noise Damper to throttle-body gasket? See also the "telephone cord mod". Is the Damper cracked or missing hoses?
- OEM Cam-cover to Noise-Damper vent hoses cracked?
- Air meter to throttle-body air flex-hose loose/cracked/leaking seals?
- Adapter block for ISV to Intake-Manifold rubber coating crumbling?

alsies

Alright, I had a look at the relays as I read somewhere that sometimes the solder joints on some of the relays may be weak and need to resoldered. I found 1 relay with a few suspect solder joints and resoldered them. The car started first time each time for the next week or so. I then replaced the old spark plugs NGK BKUR6ET-10 with Iridium ones NGK BKR6EIX-11 and now have the old start problem before although not as severe.

Your thoughts on these Iridiums? Should I go back to the BKUR6ET-10? Is there a known issue with these Iridiums?

Thanks.

Loudgoldwing

Iridiums are no good for these cars. The element is too small, causing too focused of a spark for the gas to ignite properly. Your car has "A-class" 2-hole injector nozzles that don't usually atomize as well as the upgraded "E-Class" 4-holers.

Go with good old standard NGK's or Bosch plugs for about $20. Or, look for a set of "E-Class" injector nozzles for $200.

alsies

Thanks for the advice - I'll switch back to the old NGKs on the weekend.

Cheers!

Lago Blue

The vacuum that may be more critical for starting is that which can be measured right at the small Intake-manifold connection nearest the Fuel Pressure Regulator when the engine is warm at idle. This is both an indicator of what can be delivered to the FPR; and also tell you if intake-air is bypassing the air meter, throttle and ISV.

BTW, I'm very happy with my NGK Iridiums in my 12v, the p/n I'm using may be different due to mine being a 2.8.

Did you have any luck with this?

alsies

Well, just to update you all - from the last time I was here until now I replaced the cam position sensor, fuel pump relay (with the updated version) and fuel filter (again!). I also dismantled the throttle body and cleaned it all out.
Then I read on the 'net about people having similar starting issues and that their solution was replacement of the fuel pressure regulator. So I bought a Bosch replacement regulator and replaced it earlier this week. Guess what? All good so far! No problems with starting! *fingers crossed*
Thanks for all your advice in the past!

alsies

Another update: I've had no starting issues since replacing the fuel pressure regulator last year. A relatively cheap fix in the end but to find it was really a guessing game. Thanks again!

alsies

Are the upgraded "E" injectors the standard replacement injectors or are they aftermarket ones. Are they worthwhile getting.