Intake Manifold Linkage Arms - Unbreakable Replacements
#61
AudiWorld Senior Member
Hey D2 Owners,
After reading this tread, I am wondering if I should add Linkage Arms to my general car maintenance. I figured I would squirt the pivot points with Sea Foam Deep Creep every couple of months, to keep things moving smoothly.
Is this a good idea or just maintenance overkill on my part?
Thanks for any feedback.
After reading this tread, I am wondering if I should add Linkage Arms to my general car maintenance. I figured I would squirt the pivot points with Sea Foam Deep Creep every couple of months, to keep things moving smoothly.
Is this a good idea or just maintenance overkill on my part?
Thanks for any feedback.
#62
AudiWorld Super User
Hey D2 Owners,
After reading this tread, I am wondering if I should add Linkage Arms to my general car maintenance. I figured I would squirt the pivot points with Sea Foam Deep Creep every couple of months, to keep things moving smoothly.
Is this a good idea or just maintenance overkill on my part?
Thanks for any feedback.
After reading this tread, I am wondering if I should add Linkage Arms to my general car maintenance. I figured I would squirt the pivot points with Sea Foam Deep Creep every couple of months, to keep things moving smoothly.
Is this a good idea or just maintenance overkill on my part?
Thanks for any feedback.
The unfortunate pivot design (should have been bearings) is guaranteed to seize due to the complete lack of lube.
#63
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Seafoam DC should work also, once freed up you can use your favorite lube on a regular basis to maintain them. My preference is a Teflon-based lube. I'm jonesing for another can of Tri-Flo, that stuff is the best IMHO. Remoil doesn't leave as much oil behind but it seems to work fine (and you can get it at Walmart). That being said I'm going to do them again right now.
Eric
#64
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#65
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#66
AudiWorld Senior Member
Quick and dirty free up: I backed out the small center torx head bolt maybe two turns then tapped on it to move the shaft within the housing flange. Initially I kept a little light pressure on the tear drop shaped arm with a screwdriver to move them while tapping to break the shaft free. The combination of a little rotational pressure and tapping vibration and....ahhhh...release. (Don't analyze it!) Then I worked the levers back and forth by hand and sprayed some...Kroil Oil..methinks...Orange can of mystery lube...anyway...gtg ever since. I should still pull them and clean up the surfaces...just need a bucket of time.
The nose of the shaft has a plastic cap an inch or two long the has a square end to mate to the teardrop shaped arms/springs. The bolt you tap on is fairly long and screws into the metal shaft. Pull it out all the way if you want some comfort that there are still enough threads to safely tap on it. Put it back in all the way, back out two or three turns and have at it. If I were using a gear puller, I would rather push on this bolt head than the plastic "cap" beneath it. That bit is way too fragile - and unobtanium. Pierburg makes the manifold, btw, and I don't see pieces available for it anywhere.
The manifold linkage arms are billet ****, no doubt, but not the problem. It is the shaft interface that seizes up.
The nose of the shaft has a plastic cap an inch or two long the has a square end to mate to the teardrop shaped arms/springs. The bolt you tap on is fairly long and screws into the metal shaft. Pull it out all the way if you want some comfort that there are still enough threads to safely tap on it. Put it back in all the way, back out two or three turns and have at it. If I were using a gear puller, I would rather push on this bolt head than the plastic "cap" beneath it. That bit is way too fragile - and unobtanium. Pierburg makes the manifold, btw, and I don't see pieces available for it anywhere.
The manifold linkage arms are billet ****, no doubt, but not the problem. It is the shaft interface that seizes up.
Last edited by BrianC72gt; 03-14-2014 at 08:18 PM.
#67
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well put. i wonder how often this thing seizes up. the plastic links become the problem when they break due to the manifold seizing up, at least that failure wont occur with the billet **** linkage arms.
has anyone done the cleaning procedure more than 1x ? is this a yearly occurrence ?
has anyone done the cleaning procedure more than 1x ? is this a yearly occurrence ?
#68
AudiWorld Super User
I've redone mine once since my original write-up...they were starting to get sluggish. If they are still moving, disassembly is infinitely easier.
#70
Intake Manifold link / actuator arm help
Hello everyone,
I need someone to help me with the following:
My A6 has both intake manifold link arms broken, when I inquired about replacements, I was surprised with the price that dealer gave me.
I found several options in different forums and for me the best options are: “Gruven parts” and “SBD part # AVW1312” which are sold on Ebay.
Both offer a life-time warranty; Gruven parts are made of aluminum with Delrin insert, and AVW1312 are entirely made of Delrin and cost about 40% less, and they look much more similar to the OEM part, I like this because it allows my car to maintain the original appearance, rather than look like a "robocop" or "transformer".
Has anyone tested the SBD AVW1312 parts?
I would like some suggestions.
Thanks
I need someone to help me with the following:
My A6 has both intake manifold link arms broken, when I inquired about replacements, I was surprised with the price that dealer gave me.
I found several options in different forums and for me the best options are: “Gruven parts” and “SBD part # AVW1312” which are sold on Ebay.
Both offer a life-time warranty; Gruven parts are made of aluminum with Delrin insert, and AVW1312 are entirely made of Delrin and cost about 40% less, and they look much more similar to the OEM part, I like this because it allows my car to maintain the original appearance, rather than look like a "robocop" or "transformer".
Has anyone tested the SBD AVW1312 parts?
I would like some suggestions.
Thanks