Luis A.

Robert, where is the write-up? Can't find it. Thanks.

Robert Schirmer

Hey Luis,
hopefully this works. Not too handy with computors, but give me some wrenches and I can screw things up with the best of them!!

Bob
It is posted with pictures on 11-19-2011(?)
So you want to change your trans fluid???

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It really isn't the hardest. If you can do brakes with a vagcom you can do this. You will need to get your car up on ramps all the way around. or you can't get it full. I am lucky enough to have a hoist at my work so I lucked out.
Tools:
16mm hex drive
15 or 16mm socket on a 3/8" drive ratchet(can't remember which)
t-27 torx drive on 3/8" & 1/4" ratchet with extensions and 1/4" swivel
t-30 torx drive
gasket
filter
5 liters fluid
pump for fluid
catch pan

Get the car up on ramps and remove the belly pan. Remove the crossmember under the trans. 15 or 16mm socket. Can be tight but will come out.
Now what I didn't do is check to see if I could get the fill plug out. Holy crap was that tight! Use your 16mm hex on this. It has an o-ring but was really tight. If it won't come loose go no farther. No other way to fill it after draining.
Now use your t-30 torx on the drain. You should get about 4-5 quarts out so have a big enough pan to catch the oil.
Now remove all the pan bolts (20+) with your t-27 torx. The 4-5 in the rear of the pan ar a pain to get at and this is were the swivel comes in. An extension with a wobble end will work also.
Take the pan down evenly as not to splash yourself with the resaining trans fluid. Take note of the magnet locations before you remove them to get them clean. Also observe the shape of the fill plug slastic cover. Holes are on the sides to fill through. It was helpfull to practice putting the hose for the bottle pump in to get an idea of what how I needed to do it when it was assembled.
I got lucky as my gasket came off in one piece, no scraping on the aluminum pan gasket rail.
Sorry the crossmember bolt picture is out of order.To be continued.............................
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11-19-2011, 04:30 PM #2
Robert Schirmer
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Garage is empty, add now


Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 157 Trans fluid continued.............

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Now remove the trans filter. Pull it straight down. I't won't require much effort. Make sure the seal comes with(it should).
Reverse your order to reassemble. Lube the lip of the seal before installing. Push it straight up.
Put your gasket on the pan and go straight up and start a couple of bolts. Use no sealer on the gasket. Don't want any "blue glue" in your trans filter or fluid. Tighten in a x pattern. I just went around the pan in a circle. I didn't have any leaks so I guess it works. There is a torque spec for the pan but I'm pretty sure most of us don't have a decimal inch pound digital torque wrench. I guess use common sense on how tight is good.
Put the drain plug back in(if you already didn't).
Now the real fun..filling it back up. Snake your hose in to the fill hole of the pan. If you have a friend to help with this step, it would go much easier. The pump I got didn't fit the bottle neck too good. It tipped over one time and I spilled some $40.00 liter liquid gold. You will get about 1 3/4 liters in till it starts running out the fill hole. Don't panic, this is how it goes. Now you start the car for 30 seconds to let it suck the oil out of the pan and into the trans. Shut the car off. Go back to filling it. Should get about 1 1/2 liters in this time. Now you should hook up your vagcom and get to the trans group. I believe it was in the measurements section. It will have a drop down on the right with a box to check for trans temp. Check that and it will pop up on the left side of your screen. Now start your engine and go into each gear up and down for 20 seconds each. Keep an eye on the trans temp. Go back below and add more fluid till it seeps out again. Take your time filling now.The trans temp rises slowly so you have time. It is full when a little still leaks out when the trans temp is between 30-40 degrees C. If you go over on the temp(I doubt you will) shut it off and let it cool. Then start over with the final fill. Put your fill plug back in. I am doing this final fill setp from memory. I did this a month ago and my Eban won't open right now. If it is incorrect I will fix on Monday. I believe I didn't forget any steps. If someone notices a glaring omission, please list a correction.
I would do a road test and let it cool off to recheck. Up to you. Now put your crossmember back on. Put on your splash pan on and your fun is over. Although this only changes 5 liters of a 8-9 liter system, even my wife noticed an improvement in the shifting(so did I). I may do a fluid only drain and fill in a month or so to get more new fluid in it. Would be nice to get all the old fluid out, but then it wouldn't be a diy project anymore. You would need a trans fluid machine with special adapters. All in all not too hard, just time consuming. PM me if you have any questions.

Bob
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Luis A.

Hey Bob!

I found your original post with all the pictures, thanks. Now, why in the heck do you think those smart engineers don't place the drain plug on the bottom of the pan so all the oil drains out. There must be a reason.

Robert Schirmer

The remaining fluid is in valves and the bulk of it is still in the torque convertor.

Bob

drencher

Sort of resurrecting an old thread, but one helpful hint.

On my 2006 A6 3.2 I had a real hassle getting the last two bolts out because of the mount being in the way. Swivel, flexible extensions all wouldn't get a solid puchase and I didn't want to strip the heads.

So I went old school and puchased a set of L-keys:
I went with the set of 7 if only because buying the single T27 was half the price of the set, so... your know MORE TOOLS!

Worked like a charm!!!

I have 303,000 miles on it and the tranny fluid looks used, but the I don't ever recall seeing the inside of a tansmission look so good -- especially with 300,000+ miles on it! Here's to hoping a partial fill will smooth out the 2nd-3rd shift and NOT strip any varnishing that would cause slipping. Fingers crossed.

Witchhunt

I have 175k miles on my 2005 3.2. Never touched the tranny fluid. The car shifts like it's brand new
Until it starts acting up. I'm not changing mine
ok

raj99

When it starts "acting up", it'll be too late.

ZF, the manufacturer of your tranny recommends to have the oil and filter changed about every 70k miles.

4Driver4

Why not take the same course with your engine oil?

KevinGary

Witchhunt

If I went by my manual my car would be in the scrap yard
they recommend oil changes every 10k miles. Do you agree with that too? I do it every 5. According to my manual it's says nothing about changing tranny fluid. The tranny is not an engine