View Poll Results: Do you prefer the OLD FAQ?
I want the OLD FAQ back!
4
100.00%
I like the NEW FORMAT
0
0%
Voters: 4. You may not vote on this poll
AUDI A4 | B5 | 8D 1996 - 2001 FAQ Frequently Asked Questions and Common Problems Thread Collection
01-31-2006, 03:29 PM
#402
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,280
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Test Pipe / Cat Removal Pipe - Testpipe Installation
Installation write up done by SolidFish:
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2479672.phtml">Click Here</a>
Another well detailed write up done by BSK:
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2511177.phtml">Click Here</a><ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2479672.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2479672.phtml</a</li></ul>
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2479672.phtml">Click Here</a>
Another well detailed write up done by BSK:
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2511177.phtml">Click Here</a><ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2479672.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2479672.phtml</a</li></ul>
01-31-2006, 05:46 PM
#406
AudiWorld Super User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,755
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
More Than a Passing Fad: Tire Dealers Pump Up Bottom Lines with Nitrogen
<ul><li><a href="http://www.moderntiredealer.com/t_inside.cfm?action=art_det&storyID=1270">More Than a Passing Fad: Tire Dealers Pump Up Bottom Lines with Nitrogen (from ModernTire Dealer)</a></li></ul>
02-01-2006, 09:20 PM
#407
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,280
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oil Sensor Malfunction
There was a couple of us where the oil sensor malfunctioned because the wires to the sensor were chewed up by rabbits...<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/rockymtn/msgs/51103.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/rockymtn/msgs/51103.phtml</a</li></ul>
02-13-2006, 06:30 PM
#410
A Guide To Buying An A4 (wiki)
What to know when buying an Audi...
So you've decided to look into an Audi... good for you. In your current position, the best thing you can do is jack up the car, pull off the wheels and start taking a peek.
Exterior
-Check for repainted body panels. An easy way to do this is open up the doors and look for areas of overspray or a "layer" look to the paint. This will let you know that parts of the car have been repainted.
-Dings, dents, overall condition of the paint... is it glossy, dull, rough, orange peeled? A good sign of owner care is how the vehicle looks.
-Headlights/fog lights. Do you have condensation inside the headlights or foglights? All bulbs working? Have the lenses been clear cornered (this refers to having the orange half moon cut out of the headlight)? Also check if the car has xenon. If you open the hood and feel under the headlight housing you should be able to feel a ballast... You could just ask the owner if he knows... he/she should be able to tell you
-Tailights. Make sure no cracks or stress marks. All bulbs working. When you press the rear foglight switch does ONLY the one left (right in EU) rear bulb turn on. If they both turn on, they've modified the rear fogs ... explain to them they are a "tool" and continue on
- License plate lights... make sure they work. Also the lower door moldings have a habit of rusting and falling off. This has NOTHING to do with the body itself and are easily replaced.
-Is the car debadged? If so make sure they did a good job, no signs of scratches or an outline of the badges
Engine
-Check mileage... over 60,000 Miles? Ask for receipt of the timing belt change. No you don't want them to say "oh it's been done"... you want hard evidence. This is not something to mess around with... if they can't prove it, assume it's not done and negotiate the price.
-Open the hood; check all the fluids and make sure they are full and the correct fluid. Powersteering fluid should be pentosin , a green oily looking fluid. Brake fluid should be clear, not milky. Coolant can ONLY be pink or purple... Its green? Oh well laugh and walk away... they used a normal coolant... not good. Don't listen to "oh I used dexcool it's supposed to be the same"... you want to risk your new car on it fine...
-Ask for receipts of the oil change. Check the oil colour when you pull the dipstick out. 1.8T have sludge issues. Ask specifically which oil that have put in their car. Make sure it is recognized as safe by AoA (audi of America) or at least that audiworld gives you the A OK
-Start the car up... listen for chatter. Shut the car off, pull the plugs... check the colour... black = too much oil/bad detonation white = running lean (engine starved for oil... brown = perfect. Also check the plugs themselves... NGK? Bosch? Acdelco? Different plugs can really effect how the car runs and drives.
-1.8T Only... if the owner is spouting off how much nicer the car is with a chip... realize the turbo is working harder. Ask how long the car has been chipped? If it's been a long time it's "possible" the turbo is on its way out. They aren't cheap to replace.
- If the car has been fitted with a Blow Off Valve Or Cold Air Intake (besides the carbonio) on the 1.8T this is another reason to skip on the car.
- You can bring a mechanical boost guage and check the boost pressure. Search the forum to see common boost pressures.
-Are all the engine covers there? Look on Audiworld for pics of the engine with all the covers on. Make sure you get them all.
Drivetrain
-You have all the wheels off right? Take a look at the rubber bushings on the control arm, as well as overall condition of Tie rod ends, rotors, brake pads, and any noticeable leaks. You don't know what to look for? Take a friend who does, or post in your local audiworld forum that you need help looking at a car, someone will help you.
-Tread wear on all 4 tires should be inspected. Even? Great... uneven... alignment needs to get done, tires are low on pressure, something else.
-Look under the car... check the oil pan for scrapes or damage.
-See if the owner uses a bellypan... they do? Excellent... take it off... look at the top of it. Wow a collection of fluid, yep you got a leak. Dry as a bone, perfect the owner washed it before you came... you still have a leak. You're sure you don't have a leak... well good.
-Get under the car... yes under it. At the rear make sure the rear diff main seal isn't leaking. You don't understand what that is? Ask a friend to come along, they'll help you.
-Look for scrapes/dents/ scratches on the underbody. If the car has been lowered, it's probably bottomed out at least once. Make sure nothing vital has been broken/damaged.
-Look inside the driver and passenger wheel well, you will see your tie rod end connecting to a rubber boot. Follow this boot back and shine a flashlight in that area, if there is wet spots, or fluid; the rack is on the way out, this will need replacing
Interior
-Well just look to make sure everything is clean. No cuts in the cloth/leather.
-Turn the stereo up... LOUDER.... Good. Do you hear any crackling out of any of the speakers?
-They have an aftermarket system - Look for a clean install, if it doesn't look like a professional job, mention that. You shouldn't have to live with some ricers half a$$ work.
- Sun roof/moon roof. Check it's operation in each click of the dial. Make sure it slides smoothly with no binding or excessive noise.
-Look at your trip computer. Cool isn't it? Look for dead pixels and the "missing line." Make sure it's actually functioning.
- Did they install a boost guage or turbo timer? Make sure the install is clean and looks like it belongs. If they have a turbo timer that's a good sign they let the car cool down before they shut it off (this applies to turbo cars only). If they didn't... ask them to take you out for a drive. Encourage them to open it up. When you park, see if they just shut the car off.. or let it cool.
-I'll just throw this in here... cruise control... see if it works.
-Open the trunk... lift up the mat. One spare tire, jack, wrench and if aftermarket wheels make sure you get the locking key.
-Hazard triangle. It's an orange triangle under the trunklid... it's just a nice thing to have.
-Sit down in the seats... both of the front ones. Try all the functions of the seats and make sure they move smoothly.Including heated seat is the car is equipped.
-Make sure the inside door handles work. Lock the door and pull the handle twice. The first pull should unlock the door, the second should open it.
-Feel the shifter and make sure it moves smoothly through all the gears with no binding. Oh you're buying a tip... AHAHAAHA
Misc
-Bring an OBD II tool at the least. Scan the car and see if any codes come up
-If you can get a VAG- COM... or find someone in your area with one. Pull all the errors for the car. It'll give you good insight into the condition of the car. Make sure you do this after taking it for a "spirited" longish drive. Just to make sure the seller hasn't already cleared all the codes
- Get the vin and check at an audi dealer too see the history of the car. Or carfax.com. Just because car fax says it hasn't been an accident doesn't means it's true. But it's a good 19$ investment
- Keys!... you should get 3 (4 if 2001.5 or newer). One main key, one valet, and one plastic one. Check the condition of the remote. Make sure it works and unlocks all doors. Also check the ability to roll down/up the windows by inserting the key in the drivers door and turning all the way left (to open), and all the way right(to close)
- All manuals and documentation should be included with the car. RADIO CODE ... very important with stock stereo system.
-Ask if the owner is on Audiworld or another online forum. If they are ask for their screen name. Obviously pass this off as " oh hey we should b.s. on there someday." They gave you their name.. great. Search all their old posts. Hmm a lot of street racing posts... Oh that accident they forgot to tell you about... the dead hooker in the trunk? Just search old posts.. it's helpful
Good luck
So you've decided to look into an Audi... good for you. In your current position, the best thing you can do is jack up the car, pull off the wheels and start taking a peek.
Exterior
-Check for repainted body panels. An easy way to do this is open up the doors and look for areas of overspray or a "layer" look to the paint. This will let you know that parts of the car have been repainted.
-Dings, dents, overall condition of the paint... is it glossy, dull, rough, orange peeled? A good sign of owner care is how the vehicle looks.
-Headlights/fog lights. Do you have condensation inside the headlights or foglights? All bulbs working? Have the lenses been clear cornered (this refers to having the orange half moon cut out of the headlight)? Also check if the car has xenon. If you open the hood and feel under the headlight housing you should be able to feel a ballast... You could just ask the owner if he knows... he/she should be able to tell you
-Tailights. Make sure no cracks or stress marks. All bulbs working. When you press the rear foglight switch does ONLY the one left (right in EU) rear bulb turn on. If they both turn on, they've modified the rear fogs ... explain to them they are a "tool" and continue on
- License plate lights... make sure they work. Also the lower door moldings have a habit of rusting and falling off. This has NOTHING to do with the body itself and are easily replaced.
-Is the car debadged? If so make sure they did a good job, no signs of scratches or an outline of the badges
Engine
-Check mileage... over 60,000 Miles? Ask for receipt of the timing belt change. No you don't want them to say "oh it's been done"... you want hard evidence. This is not something to mess around with... if they can't prove it, assume it's not done and negotiate the price.
-Open the hood; check all the fluids and make sure they are full and the correct fluid. Powersteering fluid should be pentosin , a green oily looking fluid. Brake fluid should be clear, not milky. Coolant can ONLY be pink or purple... Its green? Oh well laugh and walk away... they used a normal coolant... not good. Don't listen to "oh I used dexcool it's supposed to be the same"... you want to risk your new car on it fine...
-Ask for receipts of the oil change. Check the oil colour when you pull the dipstick out. 1.8T have sludge issues. Ask specifically which oil that have put in their car. Make sure it is recognized as safe by AoA (audi of America) or at least that audiworld gives you the A OK
-Start the car up... listen for chatter. Shut the car off, pull the plugs... check the colour... black = too much oil/bad detonation white = running lean (engine starved for oil... brown = perfect. Also check the plugs themselves... NGK? Bosch? Acdelco? Different plugs can really effect how the car runs and drives.
-1.8T Only... if the owner is spouting off how much nicer the car is with a chip... realize the turbo is working harder. Ask how long the car has been chipped? If it's been a long time it's "possible" the turbo is on its way out. They aren't cheap to replace.
- If the car has been fitted with a Blow Off Valve Or Cold Air Intake (besides the carbonio) on the 1.8T this is another reason to skip on the car.
- You can bring a mechanical boost guage and check the boost pressure. Search the forum to see common boost pressures.
-Are all the engine covers there? Look on Audiworld for pics of the engine with all the covers on. Make sure you get them all.
Drivetrain
-You have all the wheels off right? Take a look at the rubber bushings on the control arm, as well as overall condition of Tie rod ends, rotors, brake pads, and any noticeable leaks. You don't know what to look for? Take a friend who does, or post in your local audiworld forum that you need help looking at a car, someone will help you.
-Tread wear on all 4 tires should be inspected. Even? Great... uneven... alignment needs to get done, tires are low on pressure, something else.
-Look under the car... check the oil pan for scrapes or damage.
-See if the owner uses a bellypan... they do? Excellent... take it off... look at the top of it. Wow a collection of fluid, yep you got a leak. Dry as a bone, perfect the owner washed it before you came... you still have a leak. You're sure you don't have a leak... well good.
-Get under the car... yes under it. At the rear make sure the rear diff main seal isn't leaking. You don't understand what that is? Ask a friend to come along, they'll help you.
-Look for scrapes/dents/ scratches on the underbody. If the car has been lowered, it's probably bottomed out at least once. Make sure nothing vital has been broken/damaged.
-Look inside the driver and passenger wheel well, you will see your tie rod end connecting to a rubber boot. Follow this boot back and shine a flashlight in that area, if there is wet spots, or fluid; the rack is on the way out, this will need replacing
Interior
-Well just look to make sure everything is clean. No cuts in the cloth/leather.
-Turn the stereo up... LOUDER.... Good. Do you hear any crackling out of any of the speakers?
-They have an aftermarket system - Look for a clean install, if it doesn't look like a professional job, mention that. You shouldn't have to live with some ricers half a$$ work.
- Sun roof/moon roof. Check it's operation in each click of the dial. Make sure it slides smoothly with no binding or excessive noise.
-Look at your trip computer. Cool isn't it? Look for dead pixels and the "missing line." Make sure it's actually functioning.
- Did they install a boost guage or turbo timer? Make sure the install is clean and looks like it belongs. If they have a turbo timer that's a good sign they let the car cool down before they shut it off (this applies to turbo cars only). If they didn't... ask them to take you out for a drive. Encourage them to open it up. When you park, see if they just shut the car off.. or let it cool.
-I'll just throw this in here... cruise control... see if it works.
-Open the trunk... lift up the mat. One spare tire, jack, wrench and if aftermarket wheels make sure you get the locking key.
-Hazard triangle. It's an orange triangle under the trunklid... it's just a nice thing to have.
-Sit down in the seats... both of the front ones. Try all the functions of the seats and make sure they move smoothly.Including heated seat is the car is equipped.
-Make sure the inside door handles work. Lock the door and pull the handle twice. The first pull should unlock the door, the second should open it.
-Feel the shifter and make sure it moves smoothly through all the gears with no binding. Oh you're buying a tip... AHAHAAHA
Misc
-Bring an OBD II tool at the least. Scan the car and see if any codes come up
-If you can get a VAG- COM... or find someone in your area with one. Pull all the errors for the car. It'll give you good insight into the condition of the car. Make sure you do this after taking it for a "spirited" longish drive. Just to make sure the seller hasn't already cleared all the codes
- Get the vin and check at an audi dealer too see the history of the car. Or carfax.com. Just because car fax says it hasn't been an accident doesn't means it's true. But it's a good 19$ investment
- Keys!... you should get 3 (4 if 2001.5 or newer). One main key, one valet, and one plastic one. Check the condition of the remote. Make sure it works and unlocks all doors. Also check the ability to roll down/up the windows by inserting the key in the drivers door and turning all the way left (to open), and all the way right(to close)
- All manuals and documentation should be included with the car. RADIO CODE ... very important with stock stereo system.
-Ask if the owner is on Audiworld or another online forum. If they are ask for their screen name. Obviously pass this off as " oh hey we should b.s. on there someday." They gave you their name.. great. Search all their old posts. Hmm a lot of street racing posts... Oh that accident they forgot to tell you about... the dead hooker in the trunk? Just search old posts.. it's helpful
Good luck
Last edited by Kris Hansen; 04-29-2009 at 07:36 AM. Reason: added to wiki
The following users liked this post:
Ilah (10-26-2020)
