What are Early signs of Turbo failure? 2.7T A6
#1
What are Early signs of Turbo failure? 2.7T A6
i was driving on the free way and i heard a high pitch sound. i let off the gas and the sound went away. i immediately thought my turbos were on there way out.
i tired to see if i could make the sound come back by pressing the gas slowly until it was to the floor. it didnt come back.
could that one time of high pitch sound mean my turbos are going to go soon?
the car has around 70k miles
i pulled off the intercooler hose and 2 teaspoons of oil came out of the driver side. i cleaned it up and the passenger side was BONE dry.
if anyone knows how to detect a turbo failing early please do tell.
thanks
i tired to see if i could make the sound come back by pressing the gas slowly until it was to the floor. it didnt come back.
could that one time of high pitch sound mean my turbos are going to go soon?
the car has around 70k miles
i pulled off the intercooler hose and 2 teaspoons of oil came out of the driver side. i cleaned it up and the passenger side was BONE dry.
if anyone knows how to detect a turbo failing early please do tell.
thanks
#2
Turbo's don't tend to self fix, so the sound should continue. A little oil in the intake is normal as it can be from the PVC system. Alot of oil or blue, oil burning smoke from tailpipe, is bad. A boost leak will also make a high pitch sound. Are you chipped?
Keep driving and see if the sound comes back. 70k very early for turbo failure if you have cared for them. Top tier synthetic oil at regular OCI's and warming up before running hard as well as letting cool down after running hard will give max life to the turbos.
Persistent noise, oil burning, and/or loosing boost are signs of turbo failure.
Keep driving and see if the sound comes back. 70k very early for turbo failure if you have cared for them. Top tier synthetic oil at regular OCI's and warming up before running hard as well as letting cool down after running hard will give max life to the turbos.
Persistent noise, oil burning, and/or loosing boost are signs of turbo failure.
#3
Turbo's don't tend to self fix, so the sound should continue. A little oil in the intake is normal as it can be from the PVC system. Alot of oil or blue, oil burning smoke from tailpipe, is bad. A boost leak will also make a high pitch sound. Are you chipped?
Keep driving and see if the sound comes back. 70k very early for turbo failure if you have cared for them. Top tier synthetic oil at regular OCI's and warming up before running hard as well as letting cool down after running hard will give max life to the turbos.
Persistent noise, oil burning, and/or loosing boost are signs of turbo failure.
Keep driving and see if the sound comes back. 70k very early for turbo failure if you have cared for them. Top tier synthetic oil at regular OCI's and warming up before running hard as well as letting cool down after running hard will give max life to the turbos.
Persistent noise, oil burning, and/or loosing boost are signs of turbo failure.
i do not have a chip on the car. it is stock. and there is no smoke on cold start or idle at all. i have not checked if i have a boost leak. But would a boost leak throw a check engine light on?
i am using M1 0w40.
i start the car and let the car idle from a cold start for 2 mins and then i drive it around but not hard. rpms under 2100.
if i drive it hard i let it idle a min b4 shutting the engine off. am i on the right track? or should i let the engine warm up mroe from a cold start?
#4
AudiWorld Super User
Boost leaks are not uncommon with turbo cars. And they will throw a CEL.
Two minutes idle excessive....30 seconds is enough, drive gently until temperature gauge needle moves a little. You should still not flog it until you get 160F or so oil temp.
Letting it idle a minute before shutting down is ok...if you come blistering in off the freeway from 75-85 mph you might want to wait two minutes....but that's hard to do if you're going to be refueling and moving on. I like to either slither into the fuel pump, gas up and get the heck back on the road or park the car and do my thing at the rest stop and then refuel the car. PS..don't forget to get fuel if you do this...ask me how I know this....
Idling the engine from a cold start simply causes slower warmup and potential oil dilution from fuel.
Two minutes idle excessive....30 seconds is enough, drive gently until temperature gauge needle moves a little. You should still not flog it until you get 160F or so oil temp.
Letting it idle a minute before shutting down is ok...if you come blistering in off the freeway from 75-85 mph you might want to wait two minutes....but that's hard to do if you're going to be refueling and moving on. I like to either slither into the fuel pump, gas up and get the heck back on the road or park the car and do my thing at the rest stop and then refuel the car. PS..don't forget to get fuel if you do this...ask me how I know this....
Idling the engine from a cold start simply causes slower warmup and potential oil dilution from fuel.
#5
Hi, turbo need clean engine oil all the time that we all know, but not only turbo, any internal combustion chamber engine need clean and good quality of oil of course. Even you guys change oil and filter every 3000 miles or less than 3000 miles, conventional oil filter can't handle the smallest debris that passed the filter to lubrication system unless you use the "PaperLess Engine Oil cleaning device".
you can image if your engine has cleaned oil all the time with this device, you will get the deduction of friction resistance and temperature. Sooner, later or eventually car need to repair but we can extend life of engine and OIL itself longer than before if you use this and between cylinder and piston rings becomes smooth and good sealing that makes better fuel economy. This device is reusable after clean the magnets ( NO Paper used inside ). What do you think "GOING GREEN" to your TURBO. I hope that you will find good news from here. http://www.tagen-tecs.co.jp
you can image if your engine has cleaned oil all the time with this device, you will get the deduction of friction resistance and temperature. Sooner, later or eventually car need to repair but we can extend life of engine and OIL itself longer than before if you use this and between cylinder and piston rings becomes smooth and good sealing that makes better fuel economy. This device is reusable after clean the magnets ( NO Paper used inside ). What do you think "GOING GREEN" to your TURBO. I hope that you will find good news from here. http://www.tagen-tecs.co.jp
#6
Boost leaks are not uncommon with turbo cars. And they will throw a CEL.
Two minutes idle excessive....30 seconds is enough, drive gently until temperature gauge needle moves a little. You should still not flog it until you get 160F or so oil temp.
Letting it idle a minute before shutting down is ok...if you come blistering in off the freeway from 75-85 mph you might want to wait two minutes....but that's hard to do if you're going to be refueling and moving on. I like to either slither into the fuel pump, gas up and get the heck back on the road or park the car and do my thing at the rest stop and then refuel the car. PS..don't forget to get fuel if you do this...ask me how I know this....
Idling the engine from a cold start simply causes slower warmup and potential oil dilution from fuel.
Two minutes idle excessive....30 seconds is enough, drive gently until temperature gauge needle moves a little. You should still not flog it until you get 160F or so oil temp.
Letting it idle a minute before shutting down is ok...if you come blistering in off the freeway from 75-85 mph you might want to wait two minutes....but that's hard to do if you're going to be refueling and moving on. I like to either slither into the fuel pump, gas up and get the heck back on the road or park the car and do my thing at the rest stop and then refuel the car. PS..don't forget to get fuel if you do this...ask me how I know this....
Idling the engine from a cold start simply causes slower warmup and potential oil dilution from fuel.
if my turbos are bad will they make the drill sound at all rpms or just a certain rpm like 3000k? on full throttle they sound normal. and if the turbos are bad will there always be heavy amounts of oil in the intercooler pipe?
i have a few teaspoons of oil. is it possible that even with low amounts of oil in the intercooler hose that the turbos can be bad?
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#8
My turbos have been slightly leaking for the last 80k, currently at 230k. I have heard the dentist drill once around 2500-3000 rpm, but after that trip it never returned. There are a lot of vacuum lines that could whistle, if cracked. It could be any one of several bearing. It could be the waterpump. You are due for a TB change, if not done already, and that should include the WP.
#9
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