Mike@StartupRacing

First try was on a black Acura. It had light rotary swirls. Used a PC speed 6 blue Edge pad.

Well it flings everywhere, spreads on bad, & seams to gum up. Kind of hard to remove. Shine is very nice, but it did not remove the rotary swirls. Did 3 panels, then called it quits, with it.
0-10 scale 4

Today, did it on my car.
Washed, no need to clay, dry.
Used my Metabo 1600 rpm's white LC pad.
Put a 6in product on the panels, spread with the pad metabo OFF.
Then tuned on, med-heavy pressure for 2 passes, then light, then just a "Buff" pass.
The stuff still flings like a ****. The consistence is almost like water. I cleaned the pad after every 2 panels. Nothing was coming off, but under pressure, it would put products in the creases.
Did the whole car, then cleaned all the fling off with a wet MF towel & a dry one. It comes off super easy with a wet towel. Same for taking it off the car, there is fling, the wax comes off like FMJ, but the fling doesn't. A wet & dry MF towel seamed to work best.
Did the whole car, including cleaning up my fling & creases in about an hour. Shine is great, surface is smoother then FMJ. Gloss is much warmer, like Carnuba.

8 out of 10
Over all I'm happy with it, Rotary product ONLY! Expect to clean up all the fling. It has good cutting power, & very good finish. I'll update on the durability


Thanks Phil!

doctordave

Never used this particular product but from the description it's much more wax and much less polish, so I would think you'd use a wax speed for application.

You have far more experience than I do in detailing AND also have the bottle in your hand. I'm not doubting -- juts wondering aloud if slower would be better on this one.

Thank you for the writeup and feedback.

Troy H

No, a wax is normally applied at hand speed 1.

Mike@StartupRacing

You do not have RPM's with the orbital, it's just orbits, no rotary cutting.

Yea, I thought the same thing, that it would a FMJ type of product, but it's not, it has very good cleaning ability, it's more on step with 1Z's AIO,

I have not tried it by hand.

doctordave

Ahhh...well that's too bad about the sling then. I was hoping you did it wrong :-)

Grouse:3.Slow

The pc just could not work it down.I worked that first panel on the toyota (not acura) almost 5 min at speed 6. It simplely did not have the heat and torque needed to break it down like menzerna's instructions said.

Yesterday I used it to finish out on an elise i was doing. We had read the directions and thought maybe just possibly menzerna knew what they were talking about. It finished down excellently.

As for the flingage. I am officially known as commander fling now, and mike is Sargent fling. It flings a long long ways. When the instructions say 6 bead for a 2x2 section they mean a 6 inch bead for a 2x2 section with splatter, fling and dots everywhere. Yeas i rolled it out, started slow, and worked it up to speed. The issue is the product is so thin that it wicks into the pad. As you work the pad under speed and apply pressure it is forced out not only by that pressure but by centripetal force. It flings, LC pads, Waffle pads, wool, foam edge 2k. It just flings.

As for how it works, It looks good. It is a PIA to remove if not properly worked with a rotary. You end up with damp areas that require to much effort to remove. They either smear or smear and mar. Simply put PC did not break it down, It is not a 1step to use in areas that a machine can not get to. wheels, emblems, lenses, louvers etc. Stick with AIO, Prime, Or another chemical cleaner/sealant.

DJ_JonnyV

If you have any poo, fling it now!!! (Madagascar reference)