Audi 100/A6 (C4 92-97) FAQ Digest
11-14-2004, 07:08 AM
#92
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
The lowered 96 Wagon quattro specs.
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/14894/sig.jpg"></center><p>
Here is the list of parts I used to lower my wagon. Note it will not fit FWD model and might not fit other years or VIN numbers. Also I had some bad experiance with lowered wagon in NYC. Please read and try to understand message about bad sides of lowering. Here is the list of part I have ordered as a kit from the audiquattroparts.com:
H&R sport springs 29828.1
Bilstein sport front P36-0369 with internal incorporated stop boot sold separatly.
Bearing upper strut front 4A0 412 249 OE German
Strut boot front 431 412 175D
Mount strut upr w/o brg. 4A0 412 377C
Bilstein rear shock HD/ Sport BE5-2593
Here is the list of parts I used to lower my wagon. Note it will not fit FWD model and might not fit other years or VIN numbers. Also I had some bad experiance with lowered wagon in NYC. Please read and try to understand message about bad sides of lowering. Here is the list of part I have ordered as a kit from the audiquattroparts.com:
H&R sport springs 29828.1
Bilstein sport front P36-0369 with internal incorporated stop boot sold separatly.
Bearing upper strut front 4A0 412 249 OE German
Strut boot front 431 412 175D
Mount strut upr w/o brg. 4A0 412 377C
Bilstein rear shock HD/ Sport BE5-2593
03-17-2005, 07:40 AM
#94
Replace light bulbs in accessory switches - Seat heaters, foglights, defroster, etc
This procedure is for the B3 and B4 but should be useful on the C4.<ul><li><a href="http://20v.org/acclight.htm">http://20v.org/acclight.htm</a></li></ul>
04-03-2005, 06:03 PM
#95
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Step by step visual guide
I had trouble visualizing exactly where to place the filter, this guide I found makes it clear.<ul><li><a href="http://www.mann-hummel.com/mf_prodkata_all/einbau/HBBORtQm.pdf">http://www.mann-hummel.com/mf_prodkata_all/einbau/HBBORtQm.pdf</a</li></ul>
04-27-2005, 10:47 AM
#96
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My List of Parts Suppliers - Feb 2010
Updated 2/10/2010 -
Favorites:
<a href="http://www.autohausaz.com">www.autohausaz.com</a> - My all time favorite. I buy stuff here all the time. Good prices & service. Free shipping over $50.
<a href="http://www.fap99.com">www.fap99.com</a> - I moved this up to favorites because of low prices. Shipping charges make this best for large orders.
<a href="http://www.diypartscatalog.com">www.diypartscatalog.com</a> - Good for remanufactured parts. I've bought brake calipers here. Good prices & service. Shipping charges.
<a href="http://www.genuineaudiparts.com">www.genuineaudiparts.com </a> - best prices for OEM Audi parts
Research part numbers here:
<a href="http://www.sjmautotechnik.com">www.sjmautotechnik.com</a>
<a href="http://www.worldimpex.com">www.worldimpex.com</a> - Excellent Pentosin ATF price.
Check around for prices here:
<a href="http://www.blauparts.com">www.blauparts.com</a> - Good information resource
<a href="http://www.autopartswarehouse.com">www.autopartswarehouse .com</a>
<a href="http://www.bimmerzone.com">www.bimmerzone.com</a> - Good price for Bentley CD-ROM
Favorites:
<a href="http://www.autohausaz.com">www.autohausaz.com</a> - My all time favorite. I buy stuff here all the time. Good prices & service. Free shipping over $50.
<a href="http://www.fap99.com">www.fap99.com</a> - I moved this up to favorites because of low prices. Shipping charges make this best for large orders.
<a href="http://www.diypartscatalog.com">www.diypartscatalog.com</a> - Good for remanufactured parts. I've bought brake calipers here. Good prices & service. Shipping charges.
<a href="http://www.genuineaudiparts.com">www.genuineaudiparts.com </a> - best prices for OEM Audi parts
Research part numbers here:
<a href="http://www.sjmautotechnik.com">www.sjmautotechnik.com</a>
<a href="http://www.worldimpex.com">www.worldimpex.com</a> - Excellent Pentosin ATF price.
Check around for prices here:
<a href="http://www.blauparts.com">www.blauparts.com</a> - Good information resource
<a href="http://www.autopartswarehouse.com">www.autopartswarehouse .com</a>
<a href="http://www.bimmerzone.com">www.bimmerzone.com</a> - Good price for Bentley CD-ROM
Last edited by rmccomiskie; 02-10-2010 at 04:18 PM. Reason: Out of date info.
04-27-2005, 12:06 PM
#97
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How I replaced my dash lights
This is my story of replacing the instrument panel lamps in my Audi 1996 Audi A6 Quattro Avant. The whole job took me about 2 hours. Of course, that disregards the 3 weeks of Web research to find the right procedure and locate the parts.
Tools Required:
-Soldering iron
-Solder
-Desoldering pump or solder wick
-Small Phillips-head screwdriver
-Common sense
Parts Required:
-2-pin miniature incandescent lamp (Radio Shack PN 272-1092, 12V, 60mA); 1 lamp for the Temperature display and 2 lamps for the Shift display
-12V, 60mA, 1.2W instrument lamps (NAPA Auto Parts, PN 17035, Generic PN 2721MF) (Comes in a 10 pack for about $20). Need 16 of these lamps to replace everything. The same lamp will replace all of the instrument lamps no matter the base type.
Procedure:
1. Buy the lamps: the temperature display lamp is Radio Shack PN 272-1092. The instrument lamps are NAPA PN 17035 (ask for a 2721MF lamp and they can look it up).
2. You will need to remove the instrument cluster. According to the Bentley manual, the right way to do it is to take off the steering column. The big drawback with this is that you will need to disconnect the airbag, which is dangerous, and it also requires you to disconnect the battery, so you'll need to know your radio code. I did not have my radio code, so I decided to take off the instrument cluster without removing the steering column. It is harder (there is not much space) but definitely possible. When you remove the instrument cluster, be careful not to scratch it or people might think it has been tampered with.
3. First, adjust the steering column so that it is all the way out and all the way up. Then locate and remove two screws under the trim piece at the base of the instrument cluster. Remove the trim piece (start from the door side and move toward the center of the car).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_006-2.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_007-2.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_008-2.jpg">
4. Adjust the steering column as low as it goes. Then locate and remove three screws that secure the bottom of the instrument cluster. Now you can pull out the instrument cluster, bottom first.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_009-2.jpg">
5. I decided to remove the instrument panel from the car so I disconnected the 5 major cable connectors and a couple of smaller ones. By rotating the right side of the panel toward the steering wheel, I was able to wiggle it upside down to get to the connectors.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_010-2.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_013-2.jpg">
6. With the panel on the workbench, you can see all of the instrument lamps. These are easily replaced.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_018-2.jpg">
There are 3 lamp types that can be replaced easily from the back of the panel. Use needlenose pliers to turn the lamp ¼ turn counterclockwise to remove.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_039-2.jpg">
The black base lamp on the left is the replacement NAPA PN 17035. The blue base is the Audi part (it says OSRAM on it, 12V/1.2W). The orange base is another Audi part (OSRAM, 12V/1.1W) with a smaller base. Not shown is an Audi part with a green base (OSRAM 12V/2.0W). Since it is higher wattage, I think it's the high beam indicator.
7. Next, locate and remove the temperature indicator. It is a black box about 8cm long, with a yellow 5-wire connector on it. There's 2 screws holding it in.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_042-2.jpg">
8. I did not fix the shift position indicator because it was working just fine. It is a black box about 5cm long with a black connector in case you decide to tackle it. There are two screws, one on each side of the box, that hold it in.
9. Disassemble the temperature display by removing the two screws on the back of the assembly. The temperature display indicator has electric tape around it -- don't forget to put that back when you reassemble it!
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_026-2.jpg">
Be careful when this comes apart. There are 2 black connector straps that provide the connection to the LCD display. Note in this picture that the left strap came out with the circuit board. It's not glued on or anything. It just makes the connection by pressure. If it comes out, put the strap back into the slot in the plastic bezel.
10. Carefully de-solder the old bulb. Use a de-soldering pump if you have one, or a wick if you don't.
Test your new bulb with a multimeter before installing, just in case. Make sure it's zero ohms across the leads.
Attach the new bulb in the same orientation as the old one. The Radio Shack part fits just fine. I measured the tip of the lamp height as 8mm from the lamp side of the circuit board. I don't think the height is critical but it should be close.
Installing the new lamp takes a while. It was difficult to get the solder out of the holes. I ended up heating the holes and shoving the new lamp leads into the holes one at a time. Then alternately heating and pushing until the lamp was in the right position.
11. Put the panel back in the car and attach the wires to the connectors on the cluster, start the car, and check to see if the new bulbs work.
Insert the instrument cluster into the dash and secure it with the three screws.
Attach the lower trim strip. It has a metal pin on one side -- insert this pin into place first.
12. Adjust the steering wheel to your preferred position.
Start the car and check that the speedometer, odometer, tachometer, lights, gauges, wipers, and turn signals all operate properly. It's possible that something got knocked loose when you were moving the instrument cluster.
This story is by Bob McComiskie. It worked for me. Your mileage may vary. Procedure paraphrased from Viktor Borisov's procedure on 12V.org.
Tools Required:
-Soldering iron
-Solder
-Desoldering pump or solder wick
-Small Phillips-head screwdriver
-Common sense
Parts Required:
-2-pin miniature incandescent lamp (Radio Shack PN 272-1092, 12V, 60mA); 1 lamp for the Temperature display and 2 lamps for the Shift display
-12V, 60mA, 1.2W instrument lamps (NAPA Auto Parts, PN 17035, Generic PN 2721MF) (Comes in a 10 pack for about $20). Need 16 of these lamps to replace everything. The same lamp will replace all of the instrument lamps no matter the base type.
Procedure:
1. Buy the lamps: the temperature display lamp is Radio Shack PN 272-1092. The instrument lamps are NAPA PN 17035 (ask for a 2721MF lamp and they can look it up).
2. You will need to remove the instrument cluster. According to the Bentley manual, the right way to do it is to take off the steering column. The big drawback with this is that you will need to disconnect the airbag, which is dangerous, and it also requires you to disconnect the battery, so you'll need to know your radio code. I did not have my radio code, so I decided to take off the instrument cluster without removing the steering column. It is harder (there is not much space) but definitely possible. When you remove the instrument cluster, be careful not to scratch it or people might think it has been tampered with.
3. First, adjust the steering column so that it is all the way out and all the way up. Then locate and remove two screws under the trim piece at the base of the instrument cluster. Remove the trim piece (start from the door side and move toward the center of the car).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_006-2.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_007-2.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_008-2.jpg">
4. Adjust the steering column as low as it goes. Then locate and remove three screws that secure the bottom of the instrument cluster. Now you can pull out the instrument cluster, bottom first.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_009-2.jpg">
5. I decided to remove the instrument panel from the car so I disconnected the 5 major cable connectors and a couple of smaller ones. By rotating the right side of the panel toward the steering wheel, I was able to wiggle it upside down to get to the connectors.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_010-2.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_013-2.jpg">
6. With the panel on the workbench, you can see all of the instrument lamps. These are easily replaced.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_018-2.jpg">
There are 3 lamp types that can be replaced easily from the back of the panel. Use needlenose pliers to turn the lamp ¼ turn counterclockwise to remove.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_039-2.jpg">
The black base lamp on the left is the replacement NAPA PN 17035. The blue base is the Audi part (it says OSRAM on it, 12V/1.2W). The orange base is another Audi part (OSRAM, 12V/1.1W) with a smaller base. Not shown is an Audi part with a green base (OSRAM 12V/2.0W). Since it is higher wattage, I think it's the high beam indicator.
7. Next, locate and remove the temperature indicator. It is a black box about 8cm long, with a yellow 5-wire connector on it. There's 2 screws holding it in.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_042-2.jpg">
8. I did not fix the shift position indicator because it was working just fine. It is a black box about 5cm long with a black connector in case you decide to tackle it. There are two screws, one on each side of the box, that hold it in.
9. Disassemble the temperature display by removing the two screws on the back of the assembly. The temperature display indicator has electric tape around it -- don't forget to put that back when you reassemble it!
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/audi_a6_dash_lights_5-1-04_026-2.jpg">
Be careful when this comes apart. There are 2 black connector straps that provide the connection to the LCD display. Note in this picture that the left strap came out with the circuit board. It's not glued on or anything. It just makes the connection by pressure. If it comes out, put the strap back into the slot in the plastic bezel.
10. Carefully de-solder the old bulb. Use a de-soldering pump if you have one, or a wick if you don't.
Test your new bulb with a multimeter before installing, just in case. Make sure it's zero ohms across the leads.
Attach the new bulb in the same orientation as the old one. The Radio Shack part fits just fine. I measured the tip of the lamp height as 8mm from the lamp side of the circuit board. I don't think the height is critical but it should be close.
Installing the new lamp takes a while. It was difficult to get the solder out of the holes. I ended up heating the holes and shoving the new lamp leads into the holes one at a time. Then alternately heating and pushing until the lamp was in the right position.
11. Put the panel back in the car and attach the wires to the connectors on the cluster, start the car, and check to see if the new bulbs work.
Insert the instrument cluster into the dash and secure it with the three screws.
Attach the lower trim strip. It has a metal pin on one side -- insert this pin into place first.
12. Adjust the steering wheel to your preferred position.
Start the car and check that the speedometer, odometer, tachometer, lights, gauges, wipers, and turn signals all operate properly. It's possible that something got knocked loose when you were moving the instrument cluster.
This story is by Bob McComiskie. It worked for me. Your mileage may vary. Procedure paraphrased from Viktor Borisov's procedure on 12V.org.
05-09-2005, 07:39 AM
#98
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Join Date: Mar 2004
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Radiator fan replacement
The replacement was done on a '97 A6Q. The problem with the radiator fan motor going bad is not too common on the C4's as I haven't found a writeup on it in the forums(maybe 1 or 2 in the Bentley Publisher's forum).
Anyway, it turned out to be easier than I thought and qualifies as DIY(don't believe the shops when they tell you it's a $200 minimum job/labor only). They all told me it will take half a day or more but it turned out it only took me 30-45 minutes to finish the job.
- Fan motor unit ranges from $170 - $275 for a new OEM replacement(see unit below).
<img src="http://www.shokan.com/catalog/images/4A0-959-455C.JPG">
Part#: 4A0-959-455C
Part source: Blauparts or Shokan
- Almost all the bolts will require a 10mm socket on a ratchet and extensions.
- A portable working light or flashlight is also required.
- Jack & stands
Anyway, here's the steps:
1) The 2 fan motors are mounted on a fan housing unit and attached to the back of the radiator with 3 top screws and clips at the bottom.
2) You need to jack up the front of the car and put stands(important) since the positive(red) wiring connection is accessible only from underneat near the bottom of the wiper fluid reservoir. Remove the bottom engine splash cover if yours has one.
3) Before removing the 3 top screws for the fan housing you need to remove the air intake scoop that is attached on top of the radiator by 2 screws. The air intake scoop just pops out.
4) As soon as the 3 top screws are out, you will need to pull/slide the housing unit upward then towards the engine.
5) Trace the wiring connection from the fan motors to their power source attachement. The brown wires(ground) have a washer end connectors and are screwed to the body accessible from the top engine bay near the wiper fluid reservoir. The red wires however goes through a hole to underneat the wiper fluid reservoir. The end connection is similar to the brown wire except that you have to access it from underneat the engine bay. The ratchet extensions helps a lot since the bolts/screws are in some tight areas. Also, I had to temporarily dismount the wiper fluid reservoir to push it a little out of the way from the red wire end connection to make space for the ratchet.
6) As soon as the wires are disconnected you can pull out the fan housing unit. Replacement of the fan motor is pretty straight forward from here on.
7) Install the housing, wirings, wiper fluid tank, air intake scoop and bottom engine cover back in reverse order. Run the engines w/ A/C for a while and if everything is cool then you're done!
Anyway, it turned out to be easier than I thought and qualifies as DIY(don't believe the shops when they tell you it's a $200 minimum job/labor only). They all told me it will take half a day or more but it turned out it only took me 30-45 minutes to finish the job.
- Fan motor unit ranges from $170 - $275 for a new OEM replacement(see unit below).
<img src="http://www.shokan.com/catalog/images/4A0-959-455C.JPG">
Part#: 4A0-959-455C
Part source: Blauparts or Shokan
- Almost all the bolts will require a 10mm socket on a ratchet and extensions.
- A portable working light or flashlight is also required.
- Jack & stands
Anyway, here's the steps:
1) The 2 fan motors are mounted on a fan housing unit and attached to the back of the radiator with 3 top screws and clips at the bottom.
2) You need to jack up the front of the car and put stands(important) since the positive(red) wiring connection is accessible only from underneat near the bottom of the wiper fluid reservoir. Remove the bottom engine splash cover if yours has one.
3) Before removing the 3 top screws for the fan housing you need to remove the air intake scoop that is attached on top of the radiator by 2 screws. The air intake scoop just pops out.
4) As soon as the 3 top screws are out, you will need to pull/slide the housing unit upward then towards the engine.
5) Trace the wiring connection from the fan motors to their power source attachement. The brown wires(ground) have a washer end connectors and are screwed to the body accessible from the top engine bay near the wiper fluid reservoir. The red wires however goes through a hole to underneat the wiper fluid reservoir. The end connection is similar to the brown wire except that you have to access it from underneat the engine bay. The ratchet extensions helps a lot since the bolts/screws are in some tight areas. Also, I had to temporarily dismount the wiper fluid reservoir to push it a little out of the way from the red wire end connection to make space for the ratchet.
6) As soon as the wires are disconnected you can pull out the fan housing unit. Replacement of the fan motor is pretty straight forward from here on.
7) Install the housing, wirings, wiper fluid tank, air intake scoop and bottom engine cover back in reverse order. Run the engines w/ A/C for a while and if everything is cool then you're done!
