Lowered the front about 1/2"
11-18-2013, 11:46 AM
#1
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Lowered the front about 1/2"
Sorry about the crappy pics. These are my winter wheels and new Dunlop WinterSport 4D tires in 225/45-18.
I used B5 lower spring perch plates, a common mod for the B7 A4 & S4. They cost about $50-60 each and are widely available. The measured height difference of the plates themselves is about 3/4", so more settling of the front is expected. Now, the front and the rear measure the same (from floor to fender opening - approx. 25.5" +/- 0.25"). The DRC can remain charged during the swap.
Well worth the time IMO. It took me about 3 hours but I've pulled dozens of struts in my day, plus I have all of the suspension tools and air tools. If anybody wants details on the job, let me know.
I used B5 lower spring perch plates, a common mod for the B7 A4 & S4. They cost about $50-60 each and are widely available. The measured height difference of the plates themselves is about 3/4", so more settling of the front is expected. Now, the front and the rear measure the same (from floor to fender opening - approx. 25.5" +/- 0.25"). The DRC can remain charged during the swap.
Well worth the time IMO. It took me about 3 hours but I've pulled dozens of struts in my day, plus I have all of the suspension tools and air tools. If anybody wants details on the job, let me know.
Last edited by ELEVENS; 11-20-2013 at 04:38 AM.
11-18-2013, 06:40 PM
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I've read many places that you must empty the DRC system to lower, but you've obviously beaten that myth. Having the details would be great - lowering is one of my dreams but I was going to wait until the DRC died and replace it with KW v3's. The cost of this is unbelievable.
Do you know if this will shorten the life of the DRC if it's still working?
Thanks dude.
Does ECS sell them?
EDIT: this is for the front only, correct? Nothing existing for rears?
Do you know if this will shorten the life of the DRC if it's still working?
Thanks dude.
Does ECS sell them?
EDIT: this is for the front only, correct? Nothing existing for rears?
Last edited by G35Dalf; 11-18-2013 at 06:54 PM.
11-19-2013, 06:50 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
It's for the front only and pretty much everyone sells them.
This write up isn't meant to be all-inclusive. It is meant to supplement the Bentley Service Manual. It's also not meant for anyone who isn't well-versed in the dangers of servicing suspensions, especially the potential energy stored in a coiled spring.
Tools: 16 and 18mm sockets and combination wrenches, suspension tools such as ball joint separator, spring compressors, "pickle fork" (forked ball joint separation tool with a long handle), rust penetrator, and anti-seize compound. Use all-new new hardware fasteners and it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the upper control arms while your in there. I've gotten 25,000 miles out of each set.
You'll need to raise the front while reserving a floor jack for moving the suspension up/down. The level of difficulty in removing/installing suspension components is all about alignment. If it's aligned, the parts will slip right in and out of place with very little force. If it's not aligned perfectly, the wrestling match could go several rounds where hammers and brute force become substitutes for finesse.
Hints:
Pull both front wheels.
Remove the sway bar end links completely and turn the steering wheel to the opposite side that your working on. This fully extends the tie arm and gives you maximum range of motion when working on and around the big knuckle.
Loosening the upper control arms will allow more clearance to pull the strut out of the shock tower and setting it into place, resting on the knuckle with shock nut facing outward.
Before taking the strut apart, MARK EVERYTHING! The lower spring plate's rotational position must be exact, and also the ends of the coil spring must be located within 2 degrees of their respective stops that are molded into the rubber.
Don't put too much stress on the DRC hoses! They're several hundred dollars each and of course and only the dealer can recharge your DRC. I originally took my car for the dealer for plate installation and upper control arms. $2000 was the estimate. Luckily they were out of hydraulic oil so screw 'em, I picked up the car.
Air tools aren't essential but they sure make things easier. Especially an air chisel for pushing out that top pinch bolt in the upper knuckle.. Also an air-driven die grinder works great for narrowing the shock absorber end cap. The cap is wider than the shock body, so about 0.070" needs to be ground off all around the cap, which then allows us to slide off the old spring plate and install the new plate. Tape the areas adjacent to where you grind so you don't nick the polished shaft or the shock body. A die grinder spinning at 25,000 rpm can bounce off your work in a snap no matter how careful you are. I used 3-4 layers of Gorilla tape on the shock shaft and one layer on the sock body and on the fender lip so protect it from the strut end..
I reused the rubber RS4 spring cushions.
Goop up all fasteners with anti-seize so next time it comes apart easier.
You don't need to actually compress the spring for removal, but it must be restrained with spring compressors before removing the shaft nut. I run the Audi SuperSport springs and the spring preload is practically non-existent but YMMV... and a compressed spring can KILL YOU. Don't mess with it if you're not 100% sure of what your doing.
Don't tighten the (3) upper control arm bolts or the sway bar endlinks until the suspension is at trim height. I put a wood block under the disk rotor and use the floor jack to lift. Be careful that the wood only contacts the disk - and not the dust plate behind it.
Once it's all back together, check the DRC hose clearance at all positions -full up, full down, full left, full right.etc. Even the slightest rubbing, over time, will rupture the hose. This actually happened to my car about a year after the dealer did my DRC recall. Luckily they realized it was their fault and fixed it for free.
Have fun and be safe. The car drives like a dream! I'm sure it's placebo effect but damn, it rides good. After a week it should be fully settled, then get it in for an alignment.
This write up isn't meant to be all-inclusive. It is meant to supplement the Bentley Service Manual. It's also not meant for anyone who isn't well-versed in the dangers of servicing suspensions, especially the potential energy stored in a coiled spring.
Tools: 16 and 18mm sockets and combination wrenches, suspension tools such as ball joint separator, spring compressors, "pickle fork" (forked ball joint separation tool with a long handle), rust penetrator, and anti-seize compound. Use all-new new hardware fasteners and it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the upper control arms while your in there. I've gotten 25,000 miles out of each set.
You'll need to raise the front while reserving a floor jack for moving the suspension up/down. The level of difficulty in removing/installing suspension components is all about alignment. If it's aligned, the parts will slip right in and out of place with very little force. If it's not aligned perfectly, the wrestling match could go several rounds where hammers and brute force become substitutes for finesse.
Hints:
Pull both front wheels.
Remove the sway bar end links completely and turn the steering wheel to the opposite side that your working on. This fully extends the tie arm and gives you maximum range of motion when working on and around the big knuckle.
Loosening the upper control arms will allow more clearance to pull the strut out of the shock tower and setting it into place, resting on the knuckle with shock nut facing outward.
Before taking the strut apart, MARK EVERYTHING! The lower spring plate's rotational position must be exact, and also the ends of the coil spring must be located within 2 degrees of their respective stops that are molded into the rubber.
Don't put too much stress on the DRC hoses! They're several hundred dollars each and of course and only the dealer can recharge your DRC. I originally took my car for the dealer for plate installation and upper control arms. $2000 was the estimate. Luckily they were out of hydraulic oil so screw 'em, I picked up the car.
Air tools aren't essential but they sure make things easier. Especially an air chisel for pushing out that top pinch bolt in the upper knuckle.. Also an air-driven die grinder works great for narrowing the shock absorber end cap. The cap is wider than the shock body, so about 0.070" needs to be ground off all around the cap, which then allows us to slide off the old spring plate and install the new plate. Tape the areas adjacent to where you grind so you don't nick the polished shaft or the shock body. A die grinder spinning at 25,000 rpm can bounce off your work in a snap no matter how careful you are. I used 3-4 layers of Gorilla tape on the shock shaft and one layer on the sock body and on the fender lip so protect it from the strut end..
I reused the rubber RS4 spring cushions.
Goop up all fasteners with anti-seize so next time it comes apart easier.
You don't need to actually compress the spring for removal, but it must be restrained with spring compressors before removing the shaft nut. I run the Audi SuperSport springs and the spring preload is practically non-existent but YMMV... and a compressed spring can KILL YOU. Don't mess with it if you're not 100% sure of what your doing.
Don't tighten the (3) upper control arm bolts or the sway bar endlinks until the suspension is at trim height. I put a wood block under the disk rotor and use the floor jack to lift. Be careful that the wood only contacts the disk - and not the dust plate behind it.
Once it's all back together, check the DRC hose clearance at all positions -full up, full down, full left, full right.etc. Even the slightest rubbing, over time, will rupture the hose. This actually happened to my car about a year after the dealer did my DRC recall. Luckily they realized it was their fault and fixed it for free.
Have fun and be safe. The car drives like a dream! I'm sure it's placebo effect but damn, it rides good. After a week it should be fully settled, then get it in for an alignment.
Last edited by ELEVENS; 11-19-2013 at 11:15 AM. Reason: To fix up the original cell-phone-typing
11-19-2013, 06:03 PM
#5
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It's for the front only and pretty much everyone sells them.
This write up isn't meant to be all-inclusive. It is meant to supplement the Bentley Service Manual. It's also not meant for anyone who isn't well-versed in the dangers of servicing suspensions, especially the potential energy stored in a coiled spring.
Tools: 16 and 18mm sockets and combination wrenches, suspension tools such as ball joint separator, spring compressors, "pickle fork" (forked ball joint separation tool with a long handle), rust penetrator, and anti-seize compound. Use all-new new hardware fasteners and it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the upper control arms while your in there. I've gotten 25,000 miles out of each set.
You'll need to raise the front while reserving a floor jack for moving the suspension up/down. The level of difficulty in removing/installing suspension components is all about alignment. If it's aligned, the parts will slip right in and out of place with very little force. If it's not aligned perfectly, the wrestling match could go several rounds where hammers and brute force become substitutes for finesse.
Hints:
Pull both front wheels.
Remove the sway bar end links completely and turn the steering wheel to the opposite side that your working on. This fully extends the tie arm and gives you maximum range of motion when working on and around the big knuckle.
Loosening the upper control arms will allow more clearance to pull the strut out of the shock tower and setting it into place, resting on the knuckle with shock nut facing outward.
Before taking the strut apart, MARK EVERYTHING! The lower spring plate's rotational position must be exact, and also the ends of the coil spring must be located within 2 degrees of their respective stops that are molded into the rubber.
Don't put too much stress on the DRC hoses! They're several hundred dollars each and of course and only the dealer can recharge your DRC. I originally took my car for the dealer for plate installation and upper control arms. $2000 was the estimate. Luckily they were out of hydraulic oil so screw 'em, I picked up the car.
Air tools aren't essential but they sure make things easier. Especially an air chisel for pushing out that top pinch bolt in the upper knuckle.. Also an air-driven die grinder works great for narrowing the shock absorber end cap. The cap is wider than the shock body, so about 0.070" needs to be ground off all around the cap, which then allows us to slide off the old spring plate and install the new plate. Tape the areas adjacent to where you grind so you don't nick the polished shaft or the shock body. A die grinder spinning at 25,000 rpm can bounce off your work in a snap no matter how careful you are. I used 3-4 layers of Gorilla tape on the shock shaft and one layer on the sock body and on the fender lip so protect it from the strut end..
I reused the rubber RS4 spring cushions.
Goop up all fasteners with anti-seize so next time it comes apart easier.
You don't need to actually compress the spring for removal, but it must be restrained with spring compressors before removing the shaft nut. I run the Audi SuperSport springs and the spring preload is practically non-existent but YMMV... and a compressed spring can KILL YOU. Don't mess with it if you're not 100% sure of what your doing.
Don't tighten the (3) upper control arm bolts or the sway bar endlinks until the suspension is at trim height. I put a wood block under the disk rotor and use the floor jack to lift. Be careful that the wood only contacts the disk - and not the dust plate behind it.
Once it's all back together, check the DRC hose clearance at all positions -full up, full down, full left, full right.etc. Even the slightest rubbing, over time, will rupture the hose. This actually happened to my car about a year after the dealer did my DRC recall. Luckily they realized it was their fault and fixed it for free.
Have fun and be safe. The car drives like a dream! I'm sure it's placebo effect but damn, it rides good. After a week it should be fully settled, then get it in for an alignment.
This write up isn't meant to be all-inclusive. It is meant to supplement the Bentley Service Manual. It's also not meant for anyone who isn't well-versed in the dangers of servicing suspensions, especially the potential energy stored in a coiled spring.
Tools: 16 and 18mm sockets and combination wrenches, suspension tools such as ball joint separator, spring compressors, "pickle fork" (forked ball joint separation tool with a long handle), rust penetrator, and anti-seize compound. Use all-new new hardware fasteners and it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the upper control arms while your in there. I've gotten 25,000 miles out of each set.
You'll need to raise the front while reserving a floor jack for moving the suspension up/down. The level of difficulty in removing/installing suspension components is all about alignment. If it's aligned, the parts will slip right in and out of place with very little force. If it's not aligned perfectly, the wrestling match could go several rounds where hammers and brute force become substitutes for finesse.
Hints:
Pull both front wheels.
Remove the sway bar end links completely and turn the steering wheel to the opposite side that your working on. This fully extends the tie arm and gives you maximum range of motion when working on and around the big knuckle.
Loosening the upper control arms will allow more clearance to pull the strut out of the shock tower and setting it into place, resting on the knuckle with shock nut facing outward.
Before taking the strut apart, MARK EVERYTHING! The lower spring plate's rotational position must be exact, and also the ends of the coil spring must be located within 2 degrees of their respective stops that are molded into the rubber.
Don't put too much stress on the DRC hoses! They're several hundred dollars each and of course and only the dealer can recharge your DRC. I originally took my car for the dealer for plate installation and upper control arms. $2000 was the estimate. Luckily they were out of hydraulic oil so screw 'em, I picked up the car.
Air tools aren't essential but they sure make things easier. Especially an air chisel for pushing out that top pinch bolt in the upper knuckle.. Also an air-driven die grinder works great for narrowing the shock absorber end cap. The cap is wider than the shock body, so about 0.070" needs to be ground off all around the cap, which then allows us to slide off the old spring plate and install the new plate. Tape the areas adjacent to where you grind so you don't nick the polished shaft or the shock body. A die grinder spinning at 25,000 rpm can bounce off your work in a snap no matter how careful you are. I used 3-4 layers of Gorilla tape on the shock shaft and one layer on the sock body and on the fender lip so protect it from the strut end..
I reused the rubber RS4 spring cushions.
Goop up all fasteners with anti-seize so next time it comes apart easier.
You don't need to actually compress the spring for removal, but it must be restrained with spring compressors before removing the shaft nut. I run the Audi SuperSport springs and the spring preload is practically non-existent but YMMV... and a compressed spring can KILL YOU. Don't mess with it if you're not 100% sure of what your doing.
Don't tighten the (3) upper control arm bolts or the sway bar endlinks until the suspension is at trim height. I put a wood block under the disk rotor and use the floor jack to lift. Be careful that the wood only contacts the disk - and not the dust plate behind it.
Once it's all back together, check the DRC hose clearance at all positions -full up, full down, full left, full right.etc. Even the slightest rubbing, over time, will rupture the hose. This actually happened to my car about a year after the dealer did my DRC recall. Luckily they realized it was their fault and fixed it for free.
Have fun and be safe. The car drives like a dream! I'm sure it's placebo effect but damn, it rides good. After a week it should be fully settled, then get it in for an alignment.
I'll look up some diagrams as well so I'm familiar with the layout. I'll post them here when I find them.
Last edited by G35Dalf; 11-19-2013 at 06:08 PM.
11-24-2013, 02:00 PM
#6
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I've been interested in this since I first read about it on AZ. I think it improves the looks of the car a great deal, without resorting to lowering springs.
However... I have been hearing "rubbing" on my left front on heavy suspension travel since I installed 10mm spacers. I'm worried that reducing the space between the wheel and wheel-well will only increase the occurrence of this...
However... I have been hearing "rubbing" on my left front on heavy suspension travel since I installed 10mm spacers. I'm worried that reducing the space between the wheel and wheel-well will only increase the occurrence of this...
11-25-2013, 06:33 AM
#7
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
I've been interested in this since I first read about it on AZ. I think it improves the looks of the car a great deal, without resorting to lowering springs.
However... I have been hearing "rubbing" on my left front on heavy suspension travel since I installed 10mm spacers. I'm worried that reducing the space between the wheel and wheel-well will only increase the occurrence of this...
However... I have been hearing "rubbing" on my left front on heavy suspension travel since I installed 10mm spacers. I'm worried that reducing the space between the wheel and wheel-well will only increase the occurrence of this...
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01-05-2014, 01:30 PM
#8
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I did this mod over the Christmas break.
The B5 spring perch plates lowered mine about 15mm.
For the cost it’s a worthwhile mod if you want to lower a little without worrying about rubbing of tyres or scrapping of the front bar on driveways etc.
Before and after pics.
I also painted the calipers red from the silver I had.
[IMG]http:i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx304/bhpsti/20131230_155940.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http:i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx304/bhpsti/20131231_144722.jpg[/IMG]
The B5 spring perch plates lowered mine about 15mm.
For the cost it’s a worthwhile mod if you want to lower a little without worrying about rubbing of tyres or scrapping of the front bar on driveways etc.
Before and after pics.
I also painted the calipers red from the silver I had.
[IMG]http:i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx304/bhpsti/20131230_155940.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http:i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx304/bhpsti/20131231_144722.jpg[/IMG]
01-21-2014, 12:53 PM
#10
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h&r lowering springs
Sorry about the crappy pics. These are my winter wheels and new Dunlop WinterSport 4D tires in 225/45-18.
I used B5 lower spring perch plates, a common mod for the B7 A4 & S4. They cost about $50-60 each and are widely available. The measured height difference of the plates themselves is about 3/4", so more settling of the front is expected. Now, the front and the rear measure the same (from floor to fender opening - approx. 25.5" +/- 0.25"). The DRC can remain charged during the swap.
Well worth the time IMO. It took me about 3 hours but I've pulled dozens of struts in my day, plus I have all of the suspension tools and air tools. If anybody wants details on the job, let me know.
I used B5 lower spring perch plates, a common mod for the B7 A4 & S4. They cost about $50-60 each and are widely available. The measured height difference of the plates themselves is about 3/4", so more settling of the front is expected. Now, the front and the rear measure the same (from floor to fender opening - approx. 25.5" +/- 0.25"). The DRC can remain charged during the swap.
Well worth the time IMO. It took me about 3 hours but I've pulled dozens of struts in my day, plus I have all of the suspension tools and air tools. If anybody wants details on the job, let me know.
hi, i'm new on this web, i've fit h&r lowering springs on my rs4 b7, i've bought new shocks and springs, springs meant to lower my car by 15-20mm, i dont wont go to low, just hide a gap between wheel and wing at the front, did any one has done conversion like that, any problems after. Thanks
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