Writeup: Valve Cover Gaskets and Cam Chain Tensioner Seals (long & BWW)
05-09-2009, 06:51 AM
#23
I disagree with that. The cam adjuster has no connection with the crank or cams. However, it is possible that the valve springs may put pressure on the cam lobes when in different positions. You may need to get the cams into a neutral position, but not the adjuster.
Am I splitting hairs here?
Overall, I think TDC is a good practice. If something goes wrong, you at least know where you are.
Am I splitting hairs here?
Overall, I think TDC is a good practice. If something goes wrong, you at least know where you are.
03-08-2010, 08:31 PM
#24
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Raising a beer to you.
Thanks to this write-up and many others, I was able to successfully change my half-moon and metal gasket. My only experience was stupidly doing the valve covers a few weeks ago, which did not fix my oil leak problem.
I did not have the tool, and I was afraid of messing something up, but I got the tool, and used these and other write-ups to help get it done successfully. So far so good.
For the record, I also replaced my spider hose, and my oil cap, in hopes of preventing this problem from my driver's side and from coming again on the passenger's side any time soon.
Thanks again,
Scottr20AE
S4 Avant(6-speed)
Thanks to this write-up and many others, I was able to successfully change my half-moon and metal gasket. My only experience was stupidly doing the valve covers a few weeks ago, which did not fix my oil leak problem.
I did not have the tool, and I was afraid of messing something up, but I got the tool, and used these and other write-ups to help get it done successfully. So far so good.
For the record, I also replaced my spider hose, and my oil cap, in hopes of preventing this problem from my driver's side and from coming again on the passenger's side any time soon.
Thanks again,
Scottr20AE
S4 Avant(6-speed)
03-22-2010, 04:38 PM
#25
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2.7 timing belt/valve cover/tensioner: my experience...
These are random notes, written at the end of the procedure...read thru them all before attempting starting the procedure...I’m currently at the end of the procedure..about 2–3 full days so far... and I’m still not done...(I’m waiting for my HID light conversion kit to get here...)it’s a long procedure...nothing is really difficult, but lot’s of stuff has to come off to get to the TB and VC gaskets...It is best to do them together; when you’re all torn down for the TB, then start the upper engine tear down to get to the VC’s...do them one at time, because of the stuff that’s got to come off...I bought my own tools...didn’t rent the Blauparts kit because I thought one week wasn’t enough, and all I had were Saturdays and 2 hours on Sunday to do the job. With the usual interuptions, I was right; I’m now on my 3d weekend.
Putting coolent back in...couldn’t find two of the three “bleeders”...only one I could find was the one on the driver’s side, near the dipstick and power steering pump...it’s an allen(5mm) that’s easily reached from the top, after everything’s in except the middle, top, decorative engine cover. But, this didn’t seem to matter, as I got about 5.75 liter into the engine–the full “spec” is 6 liters...so it probably doesn’t matter.
Draining...never found the drain on the radiator...had to pull the lower hose (pull off the top connection, going into the engine, not the one going into the radiator. Oh yes, forget about the “block drain plug”...I took it out and nothing came out!!...hard to get too, also...
Getting to the TB...the lock carrier (LC)... You probably don’t need the special tools to hold the carrier, but they do help a bit. You want to remove the lock carrier to do anything on the front of the engine...Yes remove it!!. Don’t think of hinging it or working with it “moved forward”–Bentley has you “move it forward”; some of the online guys hinge it...but it’s just too easy to remove it completely and get it out of your way...then you can sit on your Snap-On roll stool right in front of all the monkey motion and reach everything easily.. Use the trick tools (3369) to hold it while you’re getting the rest of the bolts, but you don’t have to have them!!! You could make you own with some metric bolts. You do have to remove both the power steering cooler and the A/C condenser...completely remove these, then put the electric fan back on the LC. The hoses on the p/s pump and condenser are long enough to tuck them under the car. You do have to remove the lights...makes things a lot easier and there’s only four bolts holding them.
Special Tools ....You can probably do it with none, but the timing sprocket alignment bar is very useful. You also need the “pin tool” for the viscous fan. You don’t need the lock pin for the crank...to solve this, get everything to TDC, remove the crankshaft pulley...once you remove the TB, put the pulley back on with a couple bolts...then you can monitor the position of the crank while you’re doing the rest of everything. Why not the crank pin? Very very hard to put in..must drop the sway bar, even then, you can barely get a few fingers up there..way too much trouble, and much easier to deal with the aforementioned way. You might need it if you decide to change the front crank seal, but assuming you don’t change that seal, don’t bother with it.
You must have the 3366 tool to do the cam tensioner gaskets...got mine from Zdmack...first one broke...he replaced it for free...you have to have this to do these gaskets, period.
If you have a 2.7, you don’t need any tool for the accessory belt; you will need a 17mm socket, though (It is assumed you have a fairly decent set of tools to do this job...). For the 2.7, the 3299 and 3299/1 are NOT necessary to do this...anyone want to buy a new one? (may need them for 2.8's and 4.2's...) I also bought a 3/8 drive, 600 inch/lb “torquemeter style” torque wrench...Sears has the best one at the best price...under the name of “Precision Instruments”, not Craftsmen. This essentially goes from zero to 50 ft/lbs and is very accurate. I’m doing a 911 motor next, so I figured $160 was worth it. Incidentally, Sears has a better price than Precision does, and not only is it made in the US, but it’s a spitten image of the Snap-On model...even has the “follow up” dial...
Mentioned the “bar” above...you almost have to have it to torque the cam sprocket bolts...can’t figure out how you would torque these otherwise...while we’re on that subject...In summary, you need the bar, the 3266 and maybe the lock (3242).
Changing the TB ...remember..tear down for the TB first, then do the VC seals and cam tensioner seals, then put the new TB on. It’s probably best to do the cam tensioner seals with the TB off, not on. You can always get the cam’s back to TDC easily with the bar. You must loosen the cam sprockets and “pull” the sprockets...they do not key into the cam, and they don’t care about the cam position...the “two-hole-line-up-bracket” is what determines the cam’s positions...and this is what the alignment tool keys into. Now, when you put the TB on, get it on the crank sprocket first, then the passenger cam, finally the driver’s cam..Make darn sure the TB is seated in the teeth fully on the crank, then the right cam, then it will just barely slip onto the left cam... sprocket. I’m assuming you have the TB tensioner fully compressed with a wire or pin in it (usually you replace this with a new one.)...Finally, when you go to “test the alignment”, you will pull the pin on the tensioner, and rotate the crank two full turns, watching the alignment and feeling if there’s an interference...there won’t be because if the crank’s at TDC, and the cams are at TDC, and the tensioner’s tight, it will work.
Cam chain tensioner gaskets...I didn’t remove the cams, rather, I loosened the caps on the intake cam only, (not even sure that was necessary...) then removed the bolts on the tensioner (with the tensioner compressed with the special tool.) The driver’s side is relatively easy; the passenger side is harder because it’s right against the firewall. I changed the spark plugs while I was there, but I won’t next time...iridium plugs are good for at least 100k miles; I’m taking my old ones to the office for cleaning (dentists have AlO3 blasters that are perfect for plugs...any fine abrasion cleaner should work...).
What I changed....VC gaskets, cam tensioner gaskets (one that looks like a gasket, one “half moon”), TB, TB tensioner, TB tensioner idler wheel, TB idler wheel, thermostat (went to a cooler one) and the water pump. Did not change the cam seals or front crank seal–these looked fine (55K miles) and I’ve never changed a seal before. I was leaking from the drivers side VC, at the front, and maybe just a little, from the right tensioner.
What I Saved...I originally wanted a local shop to do the job. The dealer’s 50 miles away, and has previously screwed me on my 200TQ, so the dealer was out. He (local guy) asked me to get the “parts kit” for him. The local guy had never done one, but had done several Mercedes and his Ferrari; I gave him the directions and the kit...he had the car for 2 weeks before he told me he was a little intimidated and he “didn’t have time for it right now...” So I went, got the car, bought the tools and did it myself. Blauparts initially wasn’t going to rent me the tool kit, but then said they would–had to send them a photo of the parts I had bought from them...they have a thing that you have to rent the kit within 3 months of buying their parts, and I bought them in May, 2009.. But I decided that one week was just too short a time, so I sprung for the tools. I had the infamous “airbag-light-went-on-in-cold-weather” problem at the same time, so I was willing to lay up the car for awhile. From what I was reading on the forum, I figured doing the airbag reset saved me at least $1400 (the cost of the reset from myairbags.com was $55...) and no less than $3000 for the TB and VC seals. I checked two other indy’s about 35 miles from me, but it seemed obvious they had never done one before, and they didn’t even know about any special tools needed.
In summary, you really have to love this car to do this kind of stuff. I live in mountains at 5500 feet, and live with snow and curves. I was set on buying a Subaru, but I’m 6'2", and I don’t fit; in the A6, I can put the seat so far back I can’t touch the pedals–and that’ heaven for my 55 year old knees. With the 6 speed, the A6 is incredibly economical, handles almost as well as my 200Q, and is very versatile with the fold down seats. So I guess it’s worth it, but that 2.7 is wildly complex...and I fear when I have to start changing hoses...
Just before I hit the submit button, I started the car...only mistake I made was not putting the rubber booty back on the hood latch mechanism...it flapped a little...otherwise the engine sounds great, and the airbag light is off. Yes!!
Guy
Putting coolent back in...couldn’t find two of the three “bleeders”...only one I could find was the one on the driver’s side, near the dipstick and power steering pump...it’s an allen(5mm) that’s easily reached from the top, after everything’s in except the middle, top, decorative engine cover. But, this didn’t seem to matter, as I got about 5.75 liter into the engine–the full “spec” is 6 liters...so it probably doesn’t matter.
Draining...never found the drain on the radiator...had to pull the lower hose (pull off the top connection, going into the engine, not the one going into the radiator. Oh yes, forget about the “block drain plug”...I took it out and nothing came out!!...hard to get too, also...
Getting to the TB...the lock carrier (LC)... You probably don’t need the special tools to hold the carrier, but they do help a bit. You want to remove the lock carrier to do anything on the front of the engine...Yes remove it!!. Don’t think of hinging it or working with it “moved forward”–Bentley has you “move it forward”; some of the online guys hinge it...but it’s just too easy to remove it completely and get it out of your way...then you can sit on your Snap-On roll stool right in front of all the monkey motion and reach everything easily.. Use the trick tools (3369) to hold it while you’re getting the rest of the bolts, but you don’t have to have them!!! You could make you own with some metric bolts. You do have to remove both the power steering cooler and the A/C condenser...completely remove these, then put the electric fan back on the LC. The hoses on the p/s pump and condenser are long enough to tuck them under the car. You do have to remove the lights...makes things a lot easier and there’s only four bolts holding them.
Special Tools ....You can probably do it with none, but the timing sprocket alignment bar is very useful. You also need the “pin tool” for the viscous fan. You don’t need the lock pin for the crank...to solve this, get everything to TDC, remove the crankshaft pulley...once you remove the TB, put the pulley back on with a couple bolts...then you can monitor the position of the crank while you’re doing the rest of everything. Why not the crank pin? Very very hard to put in..must drop the sway bar, even then, you can barely get a few fingers up there..way too much trouble, and much easier to deal with the aforementioned way. You might need it if you decide to change the front crank seal, but assuming you don’t change that seal, don’t bother with it.
You must have the 3366 tool to do the cam tensioner gaskets...got mine from Zdmack...first one broke...he replaced it for free...you have to have this to do these gaskets, period.
If you have a 2.7, you don’t need any tool for the accessory belt; you will need a 17mm socket, though (It is assumed you have a fairly decent set of tools to do this job...). For the 2.7, the 3299 and 3299/1 are NOT necessary to do this...anyone want to buy a new one? (may need them for 2.8's and 4.2's...) I also bought a 3/8 drive, 600 inch/lb “torquemeter style” torque wrench...Sears has the best one at the best price...under the name of “Precision Instruments”, not Craftsmen. This essentially goes from zero to 50 ft/lbs and is very accurate. I’m doing a 911 motor next, so I figured $160 was worth it. Incidentally, Sears has a better price than Precision does, and not only is it made in the US, but it’s a spitten image of the Snap-On model...even has the “follow up” dial...
Mentioned the “bar” above...you almost have to have it to torque the cam sprocket bolts...can’t figure out how you would torque these otherwise...while we’re on that subject...In summary, you need the bar, the 3266 and maybe the lock (3242).
Changing the TB ...remember..tear down for the TB first, then do the VC seals and cam tensioner seals, then put the new TB on. It’s probably best to do the cam tensioner seals with the TB off, not on. You can always get the cam’s back to TDC easily with the bar. You must loosen the cam sprockets and “pull” the sprockets...they do not key into the cam, and they don’t care about the cam position...the “two-hole-line-up-bracket” is what determines the cam’s positions...and this is what the alignment tool keys into. Now, when you put the TB on, get it on the crank sprocket first, then the passenger cam, finally the driver’s cam..Make darn sure the TB is seated in the teeth fully on the crank, then the right cam, then it will just barely slip onto the left cam... sprocket. I’m assuming you have the TB tensioner fully compressed with a wire or pin in it (usually you replace this with a new one.)...Finally, when you go to “test the alignment”, you will pull the pin on the tensioner, and rotate the crank two full turns, watching the alignment and feeling if there’s an interference...there won’t be because if the crank’s at TDC, and the cams are at TDC, and the tensioner’s tight, it will work.
Cam chain tensioner gaskets...I didn’t remove the cams, rather, I loosened the caps on the intake cam only, (not even sure that was necessary...) then removed the bolts on the tensioner (with the tensioner compressed with the special tool.) The driver’s side is relatively easy; the passenger side is harder because it’s right against the firewall. I changed the spark plugs while I was there, but I won’t next time...iridium plugs are good for at least 100k miles; I’m taking my old ones to the office for cleaning (dentists have AlO3 blasters that are perfect for plugs...any fine abrasion cleaner should work...).
What I changed....VC gaskets, cam tensioner gaskets (one that looks like a gasket, one “half moon”), TB, TB tensioner, TB tensioner idler wheel, TB idler wheel, thermostat (went to a cooler one) and the water pump. Did not change the cam seals or front crank seal–these looked fine (55K miles) and I’ve never changed a seal before. I was leaking from the drivers side VC, at the front, and maybe just a little, from the right tensioner.
What I Saved...I originally wanted a local shop to do the job. The dealer’s 50 miles away, and has previously screwed me on my 200TQ, so the dealer was out. He (local guy) asked me to get the “parts kit” for him. The local guy had never done one, but had done several Mercedes and his Ferrari; I gave him the directions and the kit...he had the car for 2 weeks before he told me he was a little intimidated and he “didn’t have time for it right now...” So I went, got the car, bought the tools and did it myself. Blauparts initially wasn’t going to rent me the tool kit, but then said they would–had to send them a photo of the parts I had bought from them...they have a thing that you have to rent the kit within 3 months of buying their parts, and I bought them in May, 2009.. But I decided that one week was just too short a time, so I sprung for the tools. I had the infamous “airbag-light-went-on-in-cold-weather” problem at the same time, so I was willing to lay up the car for awhile. From what I was reading on the forum, I figured doing the airbag reset saved me at least $1400 (the cost of the reset from myairbags.com was $55...) and no less than $3000 for the TB and VC seals. I checked two other indy’s about 35 miles from me, but it seemed obvious they had never done one before, and they didn’t even know about any special tools needed.
In summary, you really have to love this car to do this kind of stuff. I live in mountains at 5500 feet, and live with snow and curves. I was set on buying a Subaru, but I’m 6'2", and I don’t fit; in the A6, I can put the seat so far back I can’t touch the pedals–and that’ heaven for my 55 year old knees. With the 6 speed, the A6 is incredibly economical, handles almost as well as my 200Q, and is very versatile with the fold down seats. So I guess it’s worth it, but that 2.7 is wildly complex...and I fear when I have to start changing hoses...
Just before I hit the submit button, I started the car...only mistake I made was not putting the rubber booty back on the hood latch mechanism...it flapped a little...otherwise the engine sounds great, and the airbag light is off. Yes!!
Guy
01-01-2011, 07:54 PM
#26
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3 Days into it and still struggling
This job is taking me FOREVER. I have no idea how you did all this in just a few short hours. I'm on Day 3 and only just now got one cylinder cover off ... the other one is blocked by the combination valve, I've got to figure out how to contort myself to remove it tomorrow, otherwise I'm at a standstill.
I got the radiator and such off on the first day.
Second day I got the timing belt and water pump off.
Today I got the new water pump and all the new rollers and tensioners on, then started working up top. I've got one cylinder head cleaned up and ready for gaskets, but only just now started dealing with the cam chain adjuster.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll have the other cylinder cover off, cleaned up, and all the gaskets replaced, and top end put back together.
I'm still a bit confused about the camshaft seals though ... How do I pull off the sprockets and change the camshaft seals without risking the cams going out of TDC? Do just I do that with the cam chain tool in place, so the chain doesn't move?
I don't have a seal remover/installer ... I didn't buy my kit from Blauparts, so I can't rent the seal tools, and they're just too fricking expensive to buy. I'm hoping they aren't 100% necessary.
Once the seals are done, I'll put the new timing belt on and hopefully get this heap back on the road by Tuesday.
Hopefully.
http://www.sleestacks.com/2010/12/30/my-car-pains-me/
I got the radiator and such off on the first day.
Second day I got the timing belt and water pump off.
Today I got the new water pump and all the new rollers and tensioners on, then started working up top. I've got one cylinder head cleaned up and ready for gaskets, but only just now started dealing with the cam chain adjuster.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll have the other cylinder cover off, cleaned up, and all the gaskets replaced, and top end put back together.
I'm still a bit confused about the camshaft seals though ... How do I pull off the sprockets and change the camshaft seals without risking the cams going out of TDC? Do just I do that with the cam chain tool in place, so the chain doesn't move?
I don't have a seal remover/installer ... I didn't buy my kit from Blauparts, so I can't rent the seal tools, and they're just too fricking expensive to buy. I'm hoping they aren't 100% necessary.
Once the seals are done, I'll put the new timing belt on and hopefully get this heap back on the road by Tuesday.
Hopefully.
http://www.sleestacks.com/2010/12/30/my-car-pains-me/
01-01-2011, 08:15 PM
#27
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Me and my friend did those seals during my TB job, and here is what we needed/did:
-I did have the cam lock bar, but yeah, it had to come off to do the cam seals
-we used a tool like this(but a 2 prong, instead of 3, I believe) to get the cam sprockets off, and its quite an event when they "POP" off
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CHkQ8wIwAA#
-before we pulled the cam lock bar off, we already had the crank pin in place, to be sure the crank has not moved
-used a combo of these 2 write-ups:
http://www.audidatabase.net/Article_...ming_belt.html
https://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng63.shtml
-as far as the cams not moving, I believe we marked around the area, and then made sure the marks lined up, when the sprockets went back on, the cam lock bar had to fit right, because those winged tabs only allow for a one-place fitment
-we used this type of seal puller:
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CFQQ8gIwAQ#
-I got both the gear puller and the seal pullers from a local Advancce, and paid about $45 for the both of them
-another thing mentioned in both articles I believe is that I marked the old belt, and then counted the teeth, and then marked the new one, and counted those teeth multiple times
*and of course you will rotate your engine over a few times with a wrench, before putting it back together completely(front end,etc.) and starting it
Hopefully I provided some help.
-I did have the cam lock bar, but yeah, it had to come off to do the cam seals
-we used a tool like this(but a 2 prong, instead of 3, I believe) to get the cam sprockets off, and its quite an event when they "POP" off
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CHkQ8wIwAA#
-before we pulled the cam lock bar off, we already had the crank pin in place, to be sure the crank has not moved
-used a combo of these 2 write-ups:
http://www.audidatabase.net/Article_...ming_belt.html
https://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng63.shtml
-as far as the cams not moving, I believe we marked around the area, and then made sure the marks lined up, when the sprockets went back on, the cam lock bar had to fit right, because those winged tabs only allow for a one-place fitment
-we used this type of seal puller:
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CFQQ8gIwAQ#
-I got both the gear puller and the seal pullers from a local Advancce, and paid about $45 for the both of them
-another thing mentioned in both articles I believe is that I marked the old belt, and then counted the teeth, and then marked the new one, and counted those teeth multiple times
*and of course you will rotate your engine over a few times with a wrench, before putting it back together completely(front end,etc.) and starting it
Hopefully I provided some help.
01-03-2011, 06:49 PM
#28
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Day 5 is a bit better
Well, I just wrapped up my 5th day today. It went pretty well, finishing one side. I wound up just pulling out the camshafts entirely. I used a grease pencil to mark the position on the chain, in case it popped off a cam sprocket, but it didn't. I pulled them out entirely, because there was just too much junk under the tensioner to handle with a pick and a mirror. Once they were out, though, replacing the cam seals was dead easy ... pop them off the ends and once I got the cams back in (after thoroughly cleaning the head's mating surfaces), I just pushed the new cam seals in place before putting on the end caps. I'm hoping that suffices.
Assuming I don't drop the other cams tomorrow, I should be able to clean that side up, put the top end back together and having the timing belt in place by the afternoon.
I never, never would have guessed this would take me a week to do, at 12-14 hours a day. Cleaning parts takes almost as much time as it does to deal with hoses, bolts, clamps and crap on the back along the firewall. (I'm replacing the breather hose at the same time). If I were to do this all over again, I'd spend the extra money for a parts washer. Scrubbing and scraping **** by hand is absolutely exhausting. It doesn't help time-wise that I'm OCD. But as my wife graciously said, at this rate I'm pretty much guaranteed that I'm doing a more thorough job than any paid mechanic would do.
Does anyone know of a way that I can test the secondary air injection pump and the vacuum pump while I have access to them? I'd hate to get all this back in and figure out that one of these aren't working right and are the cause of the seal leaking issue. The air injection pump has a two prong plug. I'm guessing it's 12Volts, but is one of those prongs a ground or does it get ground from the metal brackets? I didn't see what kind of plug the vacuum pump has ... I don't recall if it's more complicated.
Greg
Assuming I don't drop the other cams tomorrow, I should be able to clean that side up, put the top end back together and having the timing belt in place by the afternoon.
I never, never would have guessed this would take me a week to do, at 12-14 hours a day. Cleaning parts takes almost as much time as it does to deal with hoses, bolts, clamps and crap on the back along the firewall. (I'm replacing the breather hose at the same time). If I were to do this all over again, I'd spend the extra money for a parts washer. Scrubbing and scraping **** by hand is absolutely exhausting. It doesn't help time-wise that I'm OCD. But as my wife graciously said, at this rate I'm pretty much guaranteed that I'm doing a more thorough job than any paid mechanic would do.
Does anyone know of a way that I can test the secondary air injection pump and the vacuum pump while I have access to them? I'd hate to get all this back in and figure out that one of these aren't working right and are the cause of the seal leaking issue. The air injection pump has a two prong plug. I'm guessing it's 12Volts, but is one of those prongs a ground or does it get ground from the metal brackets? I didn't see what kind of plug the vacuum pump has ... I don't recall if it's more complicated.
Greg
01-04-2011, 05:13 AM
#29
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Greg I feel your pain and a BIG SECOND on the parts washer. I am in the middle of the exact same job and it appears I am having the same luck as you. I think its safe to say that all of these tech write ups need to be updated for 10 year/100,000+ mile cars. It was impossible to clean the grease/oil etc. without first removing the cam tensioner. There was no way I was going to slide the new cam tensioner gasket under without verifying if it was clean.
I removed the cams and tensioner and was surprised at the amount of cleaning I had to do to the sealing surface of the tensioner. Also the head had bits of the old sealant stuck to it. All of that (and a bunch of greasy crap) would have remained had I not removed the cams.
My biggest problem is getting the cams back in. The fuel lines are in the way just enough to **** me off. I will try again today to get them in. I think I will have to get that "second technician" Bentley recommends to help install the cams.
BTW, I am working on a 99 2.8. (Not the 4.2) and just the passenger side head. I am going to try the slip-n-slide method on the drivers side bank.....fingers crossed.
I removed the cams and tensioner and was surprised at the amount of cleaning I had to do to the sealing surface of the tensioner. Also the head had bits of the old sealant stuck to it. All of that (and a bunch of greasy crap) would have remained had I not removed the cams.
My biggest problem is getting the cams back in. The fuel lines are in the way just enough to **** me off. I will try again today to get them in. I think I will have to get that "second technician" Bentley recommends to help install the cams.
BTW, I am working on a 99 2.8. (Not the 4.2) and just the passenger side head. I am going to try the slip-n-slide method on the drivers side bank.....fingers crossed.
01-10-2011, 04:49 AM
#30
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more on cam chain tensioner gaskets...
Sorry you've had such an experience....I did mine by the "cheating" method...raising the tensioner enough to get the gasket out, cleaning with q-tips, then slipping the gasket in with some sealent in the specified areas...seemed to work....my car has only 55k on it, so I didn't check the other components...
Guy,
Lake Arrowhead, CA
Guy,
Lake Arrowhead, CA