Picking up a 2006 Audi A6 3.2
#21
basically the same stuff you heard on that thread. The VCDS will provide you details re: timing chain as well. But as is the SAME on this thread, getting a person who knows what to look for in terms of visual inspection for wear and tear items (i.e. control arms, suspension components, etc...) as well as previous structural damage, is critical.
#22
AudiWorld Senior Member
Well aware of the suspension issues as the A8s are well know for failing front ends; this past year I did all upper control arms and sway bar links. I read that the A6 front ends aren't that bad due to them being a lighter car and using basically the same set up. We will see how it goes and how much the dealer won't give me for my trade!
#23
AudiWorld Member
IMHO, you need to make a little effort to keep the suspension clean, especially in winter. I have been told time after time from mechanics that sand, salt, mag chloride, and grit prematurely wears the suspension. Mag chloride turns to a paste and mix in sand= abrasive slurry. Every 2 to 3 weeks in the winter, I blast the suspension with warm soapy water at the car wash. $2 and ten minutes. When I pulled the pinch bolts at 125k, they popped right out - maybe there is a lesson there. The air bladders on my AR are original at 125k and I just replaced the control arms.
I guess the bottom line with older Audis is maintenance and care : the same as it ever was, to quote the Talking Heads.
#24
The A6 C5 and C6 do not have suspension issues. They do not fail. (not talking about leaking air bladders here) The rubber control arm bushings wear out at 100-125k. That is not an issue, its wear and tear. Its a sophisticated control arm suspension with four control arms. You will hear the bushings make noise well before it starts to go. I would guess the issue is worse for V8s because the engine is so damn heavy.
IMHO, you need to make a little effort to keep the suspension clean, especially in winter. I have been told time after time from mechanics that sand, salt, mag chloride, and grit prematurely wears the suspension. Mag chloride turns to a paste and mix in sand= abrasive slurry. Every 2 to 3 weeks in the winter, I blast the suspension with warm soapy water at the car wash. $2 and ten minutes. When I pulled the pinch bolts at 125k, they popped right out - maybe there is a lesson there. The air bladders on my AR are original at 125k and I just replaced the control arms.
I guess the bottom line with older Audis is maintenance and care : the same as it ever was, to quote the Talking Heads.
IMHO, you need to make a little effort to keep the suspension clean, especially in winter. I have been told time after time from mechanics that sand, salt, mag chloride, and grit prematurely wears the suspension. Mag chloride turns to a paste and mix in sand= abrasive slurry. Every 2 to 3 weeks in the winter, I blast the suspension with warm soapy water at the car wash. $2 and ten minutes. When I pulled the pinch bolts at 125k, they popped right out - maybe there is a lesson there. The air bladders on my AR are original at 125k and I just replaced the control arms.
I guess the bottom line with older Audis is maintenance and care : the same as it ever was, to quote the Talking Heads.
#25
A8L 4.0T | Brooklyn
Thread Starter
I picked up the car yesterday and drove down to NYC today. It was a smooth ride. A little vibration when I pushed 90mph. (I will have that checked out)
Before I closed the deal I had a Porsche/Audi mechanic scan the car for any error codes.
There was one code P1866 which I can't find a definitive explanation to, anybody knows what it is or means?
The car came with a 60 day warranty and I agreed with the dealer to have my own mechanic check for any defects on the covered parts. Any issues would be covered by the dealer since they weren't too flexible negotiating even tho I was a cash buyer.
On Monday I'll have my mechanic perform a tune up and change the fluids.
I broke 75k miles on my way down. Which means I'm due the 75k mile service, interesting.
Overall, I'm happy with the buy. Just missing a few key elements due to my ignorance I thought came with the car like Bluetooth and an Aux port.
I will post some pix later on in the day.
Before I closed the deal I had a Porsche/Audi mechanic scan the car for any error codes.
There was one code P1866 which I can't find a definitive explanation to, anybody knows what it is or means?
The car came with a 60 day warranty and I agreed with the dealer to have my own mechanic check for any defects on the covered parts. Any issues would be covered by the dealer since they weren't too flexible negotiating even tho I was a cash buyer.
On Monday I'll have my mechanic perform a tune up and change the fluids.
I broke 75k miles on my way down. Which means I'm due the 75k mile service, interesting.
Overall, I'm happy with the buy. Just missing a few key elements due to my ignorance I thought came with the car like Bluetooth and an Aux port.
I will post some pix later on in the day.
#26
congrats on the car...post pics
So it sounds like you don't have Nav installed either, since no BT. you can check the area where your spare tire is to get a full listing of all the options your new car has.
get the necessary maintenance done and get yourself a VCDS and you'll be ok.
as for the P1866 code, that does not seem to be in the Ross-tech DB, so it appears that this code was pulled via a NON-VCDS device.
The standard codes for this fault seem to indicate a clutch or TC fault of some kind http://www.aboutautomobile.com/DTC/P1866
you may want to ensure you actually change out the fluid on the transfer case and diff...I did a write-up on it awhile back, so leverage the search function and you'll find it.
So it sounds like you don't have Nav installed either, since no BT. you can check the area where your spare tire is to get a full listing of all the options your new car has.
get the necessary maintenance done and get yourself a VCDS and you'll be ok.
as for the P1866 code, that does not seem to be in the Ross-tech DB, so it appears that this code was pulled via a NON-VCDS device.
The standard codes for this fault seem to indicate a clutch or TC fault of some kind http://www.aboutautomobile.com/DTC/P1866
you may want to ensure you actually change out the fluid on the transfer case and diff...I did a write-up on it awhile back, so leverage the search function and you'll find it.
#27
A8L 4.0T | Brooklyn
Thread Starter
thanks you. i haven't been active on the forum again, i tend to do a lot of reading instead of posting.
the weather in NYC is now getting nice, so pictures are yet to come.
finally got the car registered and inspected after some back and forth with the title.
my indy put the car on his VAGCOM machine and cleared the codes, i drove some miles and went back to him a few days later. there are currently no error codes.
as far as mods; - i will not do too much. from reading through the forums, what i will like to do are -
- install LED interior lights (wont do the trunk just yet, because it seems to not work for others that have tried it)
- upgrade to 19" wheels with spacers (going to do some research on how far i can go, maybe 20mm?)
- 15% tints all around
please feel free to chime in with your thoughts
the weather in NYC is now getting nice, so pictures are yet to come.
finally got the car registered and inspected after some back and forth with the title.
my indy put the car on his VAGCOM machine and cleared the codes, i drove some miles and went back to him a few days later. there are currently no error codes.
as far as mods; - i will not do too much. from reading through the forums, what i will like to do are -
- install LED interior lights (wont do the trunk just yet, because it seems to not work for others that have tried it)
- upgrade to 19" wheels with spacers (going to do some research on how far i can go, maybe 20mm?)
- 15% tints all around
please feel free to chime in with your thoughts
#29
Nice looking, somewhat like mine when I got it. But since then I've made a lot of mods
As for wheels, you can get away with 29mm offset with a 8.5 wheel. That's about the limit without rubbing. Your stock 17" setup is a 40 something offset on a 7.5 wheel
As for wheels, you can get away with 29mm offset with a 8.5 wheel. That's about the limit without rubbing. Your stock 17" setup is a 40 something offset on a 7.5 wheel
#30
A8L 4.0T | Brooklyn
Thread Starter
I am considering 19 X 8.5 wheels. Without dropping the car I want the wheels to stick out past the fender, is that possible by just adding spacers? I wonder how it will look.
Does anyone have pix of such a setup or is dropping the car the only thing to do to get that look