Frequently Asked Questions and Common Problems Thread Collection
04-07-2007, 04:45 PM
#265
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Join Date: Mar 2005
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If you install them with anti seize then it will dramatically reduce all noise...
put it on the back of the pads. Also lube up the clinders with anti seize while you are at it.
04-20-2007, 01:13 PM
#266
TT buyers guide..>>
From the Vortex. Pretty good actually..:-)<ul><li><a href="http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2929038">http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2929038</a</li></ul>
04-22-2007, 11:29 AM
#267
TTULL (TT Ultimate Link Listing)
Check it out, if you ever need a link, you just may find it here:
http://www.straightfocus.com/uneekttlinks.htm<ul><li><a href="http://www.straightfocus.com/uneekttlinks.htm">All TT Links here!</a></li></ul>
http://www.straightfocus.com/uneekttlinks.htm<ul><li><a href="http://www.straightfocus.com/uneekttlinks.htm">All TT Links here!</a></li></ul>
04-23-2007, 04:17 AM
#269
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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Vehicles that share the 5x100 pattern
This list was compiled using a simple google search, it has not been verified, nor does it take in to account certain models may have several bolt patterns. Do your research first, but if you are wheel shopping, you can use this as a starting reference:
5x100:
1. VW Models (Beetle, Jetta, Golf)
2. Audi TT
3. Subaru WRX
4. Subaru WRX STi (pre 2005)
5. Subaru Legacy
6. Chrysler PT Cruiser
7. Chrysler Sebring Convertible
8. Dodge Dayton
9. Dodge Neon / SRT-4
10. Dodge Shadow
11. Dodge Stratus
12. Chevy Cavalier
13. Pontiac Sunfire
14. Toyota Matrix
15. Toyota Celica
16. Scion tC
17. Saab 9-2x
5x100:
1. VW Models (Beetle, Jetta, Golf)
2. Audi TT
3. Subaru WRX
4. Subaru WRX STi (pre 2005)
5. Subaru Legacy
6. Chrysler PT Cruiser
7. Chrysler Sebring Convertible
8. Dodge Dayton
9. Dodge Neon / SRT-4
10. Dodge Shadow
11. Dodge Stratus
12. Chevy Cavalier
13. Pontiac Sunfire
14. Toyota Matrix
15. Toyota Celica
16. Scion tC
17. Saab 9-2x
05-01-2007, 08:10 PM
#270
Transmission linkage adjustment
I'm going from memory but I think this is right, and as you go thru it you'll see how it all works.
The transmission and shifter assembly both have home positions so you can calibrate the two separate pieces back to known positions. You do this with the cables detached and then when you lock the cables back in place the shifter and transmission should both be in their known locations.
To start out get some stuff out of the way, the shifter trim ring needs to be removed and it will be easier with the TTDA out of the way too. When you get the trim ring off just move the boot out of the way and it will expose the holes for the special calibration tool. Don't insert it just yet tho.
<img src="http://lz7w.com/albums/dieselgeek/IMG_3203.jpg">
Ok, back under the hood you need to release the cable ends. Pull the knurled part back against the spring and it'll twist into place to lock in the open position with the cables free.
<img src="http://lz7w.com/albums/dieselgeek/IMG_3186.jpg">
Ok, with the cables released you can now put the shifter and transmission into their home locations. Insert the special tool so that it goes into both holes in the shifter mechanism. This isn't quite into neutral, it's a little bit off. Make sure the nail --- err special tool isn't bound up and that everything is nice and happy.
Once that's done you can put the transmission into it's home position. There's a small pin that needs to be pressed into the housing that locks the transmission into the home position. This pin will only slide into place when the transmission is in the right position, to make that all happen you need to push down on the shift mechanism slightly while pushing in on the pin. When it's all lined up you'll feel it slide into place and the shift mechanism will stay locked down a bit.
Here's a pic of where the pin is located. The left side of this picture is the battery box, the top is where the coolant temp sensor is located. The red arrow at the bottom is pointing to the pin.
<img src="http://lz7w.com/albums/dieselgeek/IMG_3201.jpg">
Now that the shifter and transmission are locked into their known locations you can lock the shift cables back into place. I usually smack mine a couple times just to make sure they're not bound up anywhere and then just release the lock mechanisms by twising the knurled ***** and letting the springs do their thing, watch your fingers.
With both cables locked back into place you can release the pin on the side of the transmission by sliding it back out. A small screwdriver might help with this but I can usually get it with a finger nail. Then remove the special tool from the shifter assembly. Check to make sure all the gears are where they're supposed to be, including reverse.
It may take a couple of tries to get it all just right, I think alot of the feel is how the cable ends lock onto the cables and if there's any slack there.
The transmission and shifter assembly both have home positions so you can calibrate the two separate pieces back to known positions. You do this with the cables detached and then when you lock the cables back in place the shifter and transmission should both be in their known locations.
To start out get some stuff out of the way, the shifter trim ring needs to be removed and it will be easier with the TTDA out of the way too. When you get the trim ring off just move the boot out of the way and it will expose the holes for the special calibration tool. Don't insert it just yet tho.
<img src="http://lz7w.com/albums/dieselgeek/IMG_3203.jpg">
Ok, back under the hood you need to release the cable ends. Pull the knurled part back against the spring and it'll twist into place to lock in the open position with the cables free.
<img src="http://lz7w.com/albums/dieselgeek/IMG_3186.jpg">
Ok, with the cables released you can now put the shifter and transmission into their home locations. Insert the special tool so that it goes into both holes in the shifter mechanism. This isn't quite into neutral, it's a little bit off. Make sure the nail --- err special tool isn't bound up and that everything is nice and happy.
Once that's done you can put the transmission into it's home position. There's a small pin that needs to be pressed into the housing that locks the transmission into the home position. This pin will only slide into place when the transmission is in the right position, to make that all happen you need to push down on the shift mechanism slightly while pushing in on the pin. When it's all lined up you'll feel it slide into place and the shift mechanism will stay locked down a bit.
Here's a pic of where the pin is located. The left side of this picture is the battery box, the top is where the coolant temp sensor is located. The red arrow at the bottom is pointing to the pin.
<img src="http://lz7w.com/albums/dieselgeek/IMG_3201.jpg">
Now that the shifter and transmission are locked into their known locations you can lock the shift cables back into place. I usually smack mine a couple times just to make sure they're not bound up anywhere and then just release the lock mechanisms by twising the knurled ***** and letting the springs do their thing, watch your fingers.
With both cables locked back into place you can release the pin on the side of the transmission by sliding it back out. A small screwdriver might help with this but I can usually get it with a finger nail. Then remove the special tool from the shifter assembly. Check to make sure all the gears are where they're supposed to be, including reverse.
It may take a couple of tries to get it all just right, I think alot of the feel is how the cable ends lock onto the cables and if there's any slack there.