Audi4Man

Hey guys been a while since i posted but i had a question about the hoses in the pics i uploaded. Sorry about the images couldn't use flash cause my phone battery was low. I was wondering if the hose that's torn up coming from the cam cover ventilation outlet tube, is a hose that could give me problems with boost? Also the 3 headed hose that connects to the fuel pressure regulator intake manifold and moisture trap has cracks(one you can see in the photo). Tried searching the part through genuine audi parts but came up empty. Anyone know our options with this hose. Could this hose also be a source of boost issues? I don't have the resources to do a compression test, might try the soapy water tomorrow.

Thanks in advance for your replies

Audi4Man

Nevermind i did find the the 3 headed hose for $279!!!

GoHeels

For the 3-headed hose, I cut about a 1/2 inch off and used a new clamp, which removed the aged end. Check the other ends for similar fixes, and vacuum hoses on the front of the engine heading towards the blow-off/by-pass valve.

For the back of the cam cover, here's a 90 degree hose you can try from ebay, if you don't mind waiting a few weeks to get it. Its cheap, should work, and I believe if you ask for a "black" version they might do that. Your pic looks like the next hose is the one with an issue. Don't have my Audi to look at but perhaps there's enough slack to just cut off a bit and reattach?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261092836895...84.m1423.l2649

eta - if you look through this guys other auctions you might find a similar straight piece of silicone hose thats cheap and would work for you.

Audi4Man

Thanks for the tips! i'll do just that and cut a little off the 3 headed vacuum lines. The other hose is chewed up and torn half way down so dont know if i can cut any off. i will look into finding a similar hose like you suggested.

Thanks

Audi4Man

On another note went to start my car this morning and my battery was drained and after-run pump was still running from the night before. So i disconnected it for now. After Searching through the forum it seems that my Relay could be the cause. Anyone have an extra one they might want to sell me?

UrS4boy

Unless your AAN engine was overheating, there is no reason why the after-run pump and fan control module should have triggered by the live 2 pin switch on the water manifold under the intake manifold. That switch triggers the 324 control module in the passenger side kick panel. The 324 in turn powers the after-run pump and a "214" rad fan relay in the lunch box under the hood. This post explains it all:

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...t=run+pump+324

Not sure where you are but at this time of year in NAMerica, the need for the after-run pump and fan is next to zero.

Good luck.

Audi4Man

I live in the bay area and commute daily to work 30 miles round trip. My after run pump comes on every time i come back home. Should it not be? It is chilly this time of year but i would still like my pump to work properly. This morning after i realized my battery was drained, I disconnected 1 of the 2 temp sensor wires and the pump was still running so i thought the relay would be the issue right?

UrS4boy

Make sure that you tape those 2 pin temp switch leads up. They are live 24/7 and a short could be nasty.

If you read the info in the link I gave, it should say that the after-run pump should only come on when the coolant temp after running, with the engine off, goes to 110 C (remember running temp is 90 C). Typically this ONLY happens in the summer after some hard driving. If it is happening to you now, I suspect a water pump or radiator issue and this is just the tip of the iceberg.

Short term solution = disconnect the after-run pump and remove the specific 214 relay in the lunch box under the hood.

Long-term = replace the 324 control module.

Audi4Man

is it okay if i disconnected the connecter straight on the aux pump? You might be right about the waterpump. i have coolant leaking from the front of the engine.from the waterpump area. its on the list of emergency work i need to do. however my coolant gauge does stay on the 90c neddle.

Audi4Man

Well Made my own 3 way hose for $30 and changed pcv valve/surrounding hoses, no more miss/cut off under WOT. But I'm in a pickle. Back when i was trying to find out why i wasn't passing smog, one of the mechanics in my buddies shop told me i had a bad MAF. He said my lambda readings and engine shaking around 1100 suggested this. I do notice that if i quickly push the gas pedal down in neutral at idle it bogs/stutters until it climbs above 1200 rpm. If i take off normally it doesn't do this. Searching the forum suggest spark plugs/coils but plugs are new and coils are updated 2.0T with built in POS from 034. I had issues with my stock coils before so i know the symptoms of a bad POS/coil doesn't feel like that. Is there anything else i should look at? I'm about to pick up my $285 MAF today so need input before I cough that money up.