headlight re wire

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Old 01-21-2014, 05:29 PM
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Default headlight re wire

so i am ready to re-wire my headlights. i have some h4 boschs.

i am relaying all my lights.

my question is, to get a signal, i use the yellow and white wires?

i am using the human speakers wiring diagram. this said the wires were on the left, but yellow and white wires were on the right on my vehicle. the 2 colors to the left headlight we yellow/black and white/black.

where do you splice in for A signal?

and where do i splice in for other light signals?

thank you very much
Old 01-22-2014, 10:24 AM
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Here's a picture of the headlight wiring so we know we're talking about the same thing:



You can either go pre-connector or post. I used the signal after the connector, just in case I ever needed to remove the relay harness.

If you use the wires before the connector, you would use the yellow for the low beam signal and white for the high beams. You can use either side, they're the same color. Typically the headlight wiring runs along the left side of the car, crossing the front behind the bumper.

I used the left side wires after the connector, which would be red for low and yellow (may have been white originally) for the high. Other other side it's red for low and green for high.

Your ground can be anywhere. Leave all the other wires as they are unless you're going to also relay the parking lights (which is certainly a good idea).

-Rog
Old 01-22-2014, 10:57 AM
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thanks roger. ya the reason i asked is i dont have that connector you show. the wires come out of a harness and there are the 4. I figure just use the yellow and white that wnet to the passenger side to get a signal.

Now do you think im going too light by using 20 amp fuses?

also the lights are bosch h4's with a city light. Can i wire the city lights to the parking lights without frying stuff?
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:22 AM
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In that case I would just go to the headlight itself and use whatever wires plug in to it. If the colors aren't stock then it's easy to verify with a multimeter or test light.

I guess wiring the city lights and parking lights together would probably be the easiest. Especially if you want it all to operate off the stock switch.

20A fuses are fine. Since you're going through a relay then there's little danger of anything getting fried, and if the load is too much then the fuse will blow. Unlike the stock wiring, which will often sacrifice itself in order to preserve the precious fuse.

-Rog
Old 01-24-2014, 12:47 PM
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wired everything up but i think i may have a problem, i plugged in the battery and the lights came on...no key.

hmmmm
Old 01-24-2014, 02:59 PM
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does anyone know why the lights would come on when the battery is connected?
-power for relays comes from the alternator.
-used solid yellow lo-beam signal wire to low beam relay.
-used solid white hi-beam wire to hi-beam relay.
-used black/gray marker light wire to marker light relay.

Each light has its own ground wire and ground.
Each relay has its own ground wire and ground.

each wire is in its correct pin on relay.

as soon as the battery is connected the headlights come on, very dimly.

when car is running, high beams worked fine.
low beams seemed ok also.

Im using bosch H4 lights.

a little new to automotive wiring so I feel I over looked something.
Old 01-24-2014, 09:12 PM
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I read your PM, but I'll respond here for posterity.

First I would definitely get all new bulbs, or at least for the ones that are dim. Some of the lights being dimmer is probably the condition of the bulbs. It COULD be grounding, but since you just put in the grounds, as long as they were to bare metal on the body or chassis I wouldn't suspect that.

The fact that the lights come on by themselves is weird. There's really only a few things it could be. Of course if the lights were wired through pin 87a, that circuit is "on" all the time, until the current is switched to go through 87. But you say the lights are on when the switch is on as well? And are you saying they're brighter when the switch is on? In that case it should be wired correctly.

It's possible that the relays are bad, even if they're new.

I would start at the relay myself. Verify which pins are hot with just the battery connected and what the voltage is, and then do the same with the headlight switch on. Also see if your trigger wire(s) have voltage with the switch off. Then you can go back from there as well as verify your wiring. Also try swapping the relays around to different sockets and see if the problems are different.

There isn't a whole lot else, since a relay is just a switch that's either on or off, and you have control over which state it's in. That should at least make is easy to figure out.

-Rog
Old 01-24-2014, 11:32 PM
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thanks roger,

I simplified it a little and went to one relay for low beams and the passenger low beam seems normal now that I did that.

still had the issue of the lights staying on. I did some researching and found that I might have current flowing through the headlight switch. this would be the relay. i think my relay is normally closed from what im gather from it.

I am going to try some new relays. I have a feeling this should be it.

-new bulbs all around ( tried to get away with parts bin stuff)
-new relays all around.

I checked my grounds and they seem okay. wires seem good, crimps good.
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