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AUDI A4 | B5 | 8D 1996 - 2001 FAQ Frequently Asked Questions and Common Problems Thread Collection
07-17-2006, 10:12 PM
#462
Understanding Window Tint (wiki)
Why would you want to tint your car windows? Because tint can accomplish a number of things:
1) Protect your skin from UV (ultraviolet) rays of the sun. That same protection will also protect your upholstery and other interior components from fading. Almost all quality tints reflect (don't allow in) 99+% of UV radiation. If you've ever gone on a long trip and gotten a bad sunburn on your arm closest to the window, you'll know why this is important.
2) Reduce heat inside the vehicle in the summer sun. Heat mostly comes from the infrared portion of the light spectrum. The number you'd really want to see is the IR rejection percentage. Many tint manufacturers don't provide that information, using instead some measure like "total solar energy rejection," which is not the same thing. Tint can be optimized to reject more of the IR portion of the spectrum, but in the absence of specific IR data, it's better to have higher total rejection numbers.
3) Reduce glare. Glare comes from the visible portion of the light spectrum. Visual light transmittance is the measure of this -- in other words, how much light is allowed to pass through the tint. 100% would mean that all light passes through. 0% means that no light passes through. Tint manufacturers often label their products with this number, but look at the spec sheets carefully. Llumar 50 lets 55% of the light through. Huper Optik 30 lets 34% of the light through. Sometimes the product numbers are exact, sometimes they're just rough approximations. The lower the transmittance number, the less glare. However, lower transmittance makes it harder for older people to see out, especially at night. That's why most state codes don't permit any tinting of the front windshield except for a strip along the top.
4) Provide daytime privacy. The darker the tint, or the more mirror-like it is (mirror type tint has a high reflectance of light), the less other people can see into your vehicle. The problem is that not being able to see into the vehicle is a safety issue for police making traffic stops. State codes require certain transmittance numbers and regulate reflectance for just that reason. It's often the case that states have different allowable levels of tint for front driver's and passenger's side windows than the rear and back side windows. You can see the laws for each state in several places on the net:
<a href="http://iwfa.com/iwfa/Consumer_Info/auto_statelaws.html">International Window Film Association</a>
<a href="http://www.tintdude.com/laws.html">TintDude.com (with passages from the various state codes)</a>
Having tint in excess of state code provisions can result in a failure on state inspection and/or a police citation/ticket. For example, Rhode Island allows only tint with a transmittance of 70% or more. If you had 50% or 35% applied, you would have to remove it to pass state inspection. It's worth reading your state code carefully to see what documentation is required either to be carried with you or posted on the windows in some set location.
5) Provide greater resistance to shattering. While any tint film will have that effect to some degree, there are also special tints made for this purpose.
6) Some people just think tint looks cool. You can think that, but you probably should use one of the reasons above to justify having it done.
Other considerations for tint:
Tint film is dyed (i.e. colored), metallic, or ceramic, with the latter two being of the highest quality. Some metallic tints may interfere with radio antennas in the windows or the reception of fixed or portable electronic devices inside the vehicle. Ask the manufacturer for advice or check your device in another vehicle in which the installer has installed that type of tint.
Tint should come with a lifetime warranty against fading and color change. Inexpensive dyed tints may only come with a three-year warranty and may turn purple over time. Your tint warranty should also cover you against bubbling, cracking, crazing, delaminating, and adhesive failure.
There are many tint film manufacturers. Llumar, Huper Optik, and 3M are some of the better tint films, but you should always research the specs on the brand and "model" of the tint you're considering.
A good installer is key to a good tint job. Check references! Large chains, such as LA Tint, may or may not be better than small individual operations. Tint is not hugely difficult to install, but there are enough tricks to the trade that you're better off not trying to do it yourself, particularly if you're using an expensive metallic or ceramic film.
Generally, an A4 B5 can be tinted for $200-250. The better the quality of the film you use, the more likely you are to go over those amounts.
Follow your installer's instructions carefully for care of the tint for the first week after installation and for cleaning. Generally, you can't use ammonia-based cleaners on tint film.
1) Protect your skin from UV (ultraviolet) rays of the sun. That same protection will also protect your upholstery and other interior components from fading. Almost all quality tints reflect (don't allow in) 99+% of UV radiation. If you've ever gone on a long trip and gotten a bad sunburn on your arm closest to the window, you'll know why this is important.
2) Reduce heat inside the vehicle in the summer sun. Heat mostly comes from the infrared portion of the light spectrum. The number you'd really want to see is the IR rejection percentage. Many tint manufacturers don't provide that information, using instead some measure like "total solar energy rejection," which is not the same thing. Tint can be optimized to reject more of the IR portion of the spectrum, but in the absence of specific IR data, it's better to have higher total rejection numbers.
3) Reduce glare. Glare comes from the visible portion of the light spectrum. Visual light transmittance is the measure of this -- in other words, how much light is allowed to pass through the tint. 100% would mean that all light passes through. 0% means that no light passes through. Tint manufacturers often label their products with this number, but look at the spec sheets carefully. Llumar 50 lets 55% of the light through. Huper Optik 30 lets 34% of the light through. Sometimes the product numbers are exact, sometimes they're just rough approximations. The lower the transmittance number, the less glare. However, lower transmittance makes it harder for older people to see out, especially at night. That's why most state codes don't permit any tinting of the front windshield except for a strip along the top.
4) Provide daytime privacy. The darker the tint, or the more mirror-like it is (mirror type tint has a high reflectance of light), the less other people can see into your vehicle. The problem is that not being able to see into the vehicle is a safety issue for police making traffic stops. State codes require certain transmittance numbers and regulate reflectance for just that reason. It's often the case that states have different allowable levels of tint for front driver's and passenger's side windows than the rear and back side windows. You can see the laws for each state in several places on the net:
<a href="http://iwfa.com/iwfa/Consumer_Info/auto_statelaws.html">International Window Film Association</a>
<a href="http://www.tintdude.com/laws.html">TintDude.com (with passages from the various state codes)</a>
Having tint in excess of state code provisions can result in a failure on state inspection and/or a police citation/ticket. For example, Rhode Island allows only tint with a transmittance of 70% or more. If you had 50% or 35% applied, you would have to remove it to pass state inspection. It's worth reading your state code carefully to see what documentation is required either to be carried with you or posted on the windows in some set location.
5) Provide greater resistance to shattering. While any tint film will have that effect to some degree, there are also special tints made for this purpose.
6) Some people just think tint looks cool. You can think that, but you probably should use one of the reasons above to justify having it done.
Other considerations for tint:
Tint film is dyed (i.e. colored), metallic, or ceramic, with the latter two being of the highest quality. Some metallic tints may interfere with radio antennas in the windows or the reception of fixed or portable electronic devices inside the vehicle. Ask the manufacturer for advice or check your device in another vehicle in which the installer has installed that type of tint.
Tint should come with a lifetime warranty against fading and color change. Inexpensive dyed tints may only come with a three-year warranty and may turn purple over time. Your tint warranty should also cover you against bubbling, cracking, crazing, delaminating, and adhesive failure.
There are many tint film manufacturers. Llumar, Huper Optik, and 3M are some of the better tint films, but you should always research the specs on the brand and "model" of the tint you're considering.
A good installer is key to a good tint job. Check references! Large chains, such as LA Tint, may or may not be better than small individual operations. Tint is not hugely difficult to install, but there are enough tricks to the trade that you're better off not trying to do it yourself, particularly if you're using an expensive metallic or ceramic film.
Generally, an A4 B5 can be tinted for $200-250. The better the quality of the film you use, the more likely you are to go over those amounts.
Follow your installer's instructions carefully for care of the tint for the first week after installation and for cleaning. Generally, you can't use ammonia-based cleaners on tint film.
Last edited by Kris Hansen; 04-29-2009 at 09:10 AM. Reason: added to wiki
07-30-2006, 01:14 AM
#465
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Throttle Body Adaptation (TBA) (wiki)
by turning the key to the ON positionfor 2 minutes works great under normal conditions.
Although if the battery was disconnected make sure you leave the key in ON position prior to starting the car.
If you try starting the car immediately after connecting the battery without doing a TBA, in some cases (like mine) the car may throw a CEL and show the following codes.
Example:
(Throttle Valve Contoller-Malfunction)
(Throttle Position Sensor-Intermittent)
I could not get the car to hold an idle nor would the 2 minute manual TBA work. Also during the 2 minute interval the T-Body didnt go through its normal motions (humming motor noise then the click).
This was my experience and the only fix to my problem was through a Registered Version of RossTech or VWTOOL with a OBD2 Connector.
Use block 060 for DBW or 098 for N-DBW and this will not work using Shareware.
Hope this helps....
Although if the battery was disconnected make sure you leave the key in ON position prior to starting the car.
If you try starting the car immediately after connecting the battery without doing a TBA, in some cases (like mine) the car may throw a CEL and show the following codes.
Example:
(Throttle Valve Contoller-Malfunction)
(Throttle Position Sensor-Intermittent)
I could not get the car to hold an idle nor would the 2 minute manual TBA work. Also during the 2 minute interval the T-Body didnt go through its normal motions (humming motor noise then the click).
This was my experience and the only fix to my problem was through a Registered Version of RossTech or VWTOOL with a OBD2 Connector.
Use block 060 for DBW or 098 for N-DBW and this will not work using Shareware.
Hope this helps....
08-01-2006, 10:48 AM
#466
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No Horn, Steering Wheel Tip Controls or Airbag light on???
Well Folks,
After checking all of the usual suspects, fuses, airbag connectors, horn contacts, Tiptronic contacts & associated wiring I was stumped. Come to find it was the Self-Canceling Ring (SC-RING)
If your B5 A4 (this may include other platforms also) has problems with the steering wheel Tip Controls, horn or your airbag light is on its a simple problem with a fairly expensive replacement part. These problems may start individually or all at once depending on how the SC-Ring breaks.
The Self Canceling Ring sits behind your steering wheel. An example of this device is similar to the old BMX handlebar GYRO allowing one to spin the handle bars 360 without tangling the brake lines. The SC-Ring is a bit more high tech but similar in theory
The problem with this device is the fragile plastic components inside that guide the spiral sprung ribbon cable. If the plastic guide breaks the constant spinning of your wheel causes the ribbon cable to kink and when that happens it only a matter if time before the ribbon cable breaks and the items listed above stop working.
Each car is different, my A4 happens to have the Tip controls on the steering wheel. Most likely all controls on the steering wheel will be affected because its one ribbon cable for all devices. The AIRBAG light comes on when the connection to it is broken.
Remember please disconnect the battery prior to the work and upon completion turn the key to the ON position without starting the car and don't touch the accelerator, let the car do a TBA for about 2 minutes then crank away.
You will need the following to repair the problem:
-Phillips Head (Long shank & medium tip magnetic if possible to remove the top plastic cover)
-M12(mm) Torx Bit- (steering wheel bolt removal)
-T-30 Torx Bit to remove the airbag (2 bolts behind steering wheel)
-4 or 5mm Allen Key (forgot) to remove the bottom plastic cover surrounding the ign. key housing.
NOTE: on some cars this may not be an Allen Key but a T-25 Torx bit.
Make sure you score steering wheel and column spline in the same place before removing it. This way it will be exactly where you left it when its reinstalled.
Please follow this link for detailed pictorial instructions, great info from BOSTON DRIVER.
https://forums.audiworld.com/a6/msgs/547564.phtml
If you have an A4 or A6 B5 with steering wheel Tip Controls the updated part # for this replacement part is 1J0 959 654 M. The part # on my defective SC-Ring was different 1J0 959 654 C but the dealer said "C" was discontinued.
If you're in the States the price is about $215 and if moved to Europe like I did the price is $320 with the VAT depending where you are in Europe of coarse. Nothing worse than paying this stupid 22% VAT.
I would like to thank BOSTON DRIVER for posting his Sport Wheel Paddle Shifter upgrade, this post allowed the insight to solve my problem and hopefully help you hornless people out there.
After checking all of the usual suspects, fuses, airbag connectors, horn contacts, Tiptronic contacts & associated wiring I was stumped. Come to find it was the Self-Canceling Ring (SC-RING)
If your B5 A4 (this may include other platforms also) has problems with the steering wheel Tip Controls, horn or your airbag light is on its a simple problem with a fairly expensive replacement part. These problems may start individually or all at once depending on how the SC-Ring breaks.
The Self Canceling Ring sits behind your steering wheel. An example of this device is similar to the old BMX handlebar GYRO allowing one to spin the handle bars 360 without tangling the brake lines. The SC-Ring is a bit more high tech but similar in theory
The problem with this device is the fragile plastic components inside that guide the spiral sprung ribbon cable. If the plastic guide breaks the constant spinning of your wheel causes the ribbon cable to kink and when that happens it only a matter if time before the ribbon cable breaks and the items listed above stop working.
Each car is different, my A4 happens to have the Tip controls on the steering wheel. Most likely all controls on the steering wheel will be affected because its one ribbon cable for all devices. The AIRBAG light comes on when the connection to it is broken.
Remember please disconnect the battery prior to the work and upon completion turn the key to the ON position without starting the car and don't touch the accelerator, let the car do a TBA for about 2 minutes then crank away.
You will need the following to repair the problem:
-Phillips Head (Long shank & medium tip magnetic if possible to remove the top plastic cover)
-M12(mm) Torx Bit- (steering wheel bolt removal)
-T-30 Torx Bit to remove the airbag (2 bolts behind steering wheel)
-4 or 5mm Allen Key (forgot) to remove the bottom plastic cover surrounding the ign. key housing.
NOTE: on some cars this may not be an Allen Key but a T-25 Torx bit.
Make sure you score steering wheel and column spline in the same place before removing it. This way it will be exactly where you left it when its reinstalled.
Please follow this link for detailed pictorial instructions, great info from BOSTON DRIVER.
https://forums.audiworld.com/a6/msgs/547564.phtml
If you have an A4 or A6 B5 with steering wheel Tip Controls the updated part # for this replacement part is 1J0 959 654 M. The part # on my defective SC-Ring was different 1J0 959 654 C but the dealer said "C" was discontinued.
If you're in the States the price is about $215 and if moved to Europe like I did the price is $320 with the VAT depending where you are in Europe of coarse. Nothing worse than paying this stupid 22% VAT.
I would like to thank BOSTON DRIVER for posting his Sport Wheel Paddle Shifter upgrade, this post allowed the insight to solve my problem and hopefully help you hornless people out there.
08-02-2006, 06:37 PM
#467
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SJM Autotechnik
Based in Portland, Oregon, Scott Mockry runs his own parts business, with access to WorldPac and dealer parts. Scott is an enthusiast who has a ton of good info on his website, mostly about 5-cylinder cars, and is very knowledgeable and friendly.
His prices are competitive, and ships very quickly to anywhere.
I have no financial stake in his business, just a very satisfied customer.<ul><li><a href="http://sjmauto.com/">http://sjmauto.com/</a></li></ul>
His prices are competitive, and ships very quickly to anywhere.
I have no financial stake in his business, just a very satisfied customer.<ul><li><a href="http://sjmauto.com/">http://sjmauto.com/</a></li></ul>
08-05-2006, 04:50 PM
#468
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Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 7,219
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How to paint a stock bumper...
After painting my car a lot of people have been asking me how hard it is to paint, what tools you need to do it, how long it will take, what type of paint to use, and if they would be able to paint themselves. Since a writeup has been requested many times I decided I will do one. I still need to paint my bumpers so I will do a step by step walkthrough with pictures. Everything here is my own opinion and there are other ways to do things. Feel free to add input.
Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for any damage done to your car or yourself.
Safety First:
A respirator is always recommended when sanding, painting, or mixing paints. Also wearing gloves is recommended for painting, mixing paints, and stages of sanding. I prefer to use an air system when painting. Better safe then sorry.
Paint:
I prefer to use PPG products. In this and all my writeups I will go by their specifications. I am using their Deltron paint line throughout.
Here is how to repaint a stock front bumper in good condition. I did no filler repairs to this bumper because it is only going to be a winter one.
Step 1 Cleaning:
Before beginning to sand anything wash the surface thoroughly with water and a dish washing soap. I have found the simplest soaps to be the best. One's with foaming actions or degreasing action tend to leave a residue. Once dry wipe down the surface with a prep spray or diluted rubbing alcohol. This is done to remove dirt, grease, and wax from the surface. If not done you risk sanding the containments into the paint and getting fisheyes as well as other problems with your paint.
Step 2 Sanding:
Now you can begin sanding. What you plan to do will determine what grit to use. I am going to scuff this bumper and then spray over the existing paint. To scuff the bumper I used 320 grit sandpaper. I used a da sander to get as much as I can reach. I then sanded the rest of the bumper by hand with 320. I am not going to be priming this bumper. The sealer I am going to be using is PPG K36. You can use from 320-400 girt dry sandpaper, or 600 grit wet. After sanding with 320 I cleaned the bumper with a prep spray and then sanded it with 400. This allowed me to see any spots I missed. When on the final stage of sanding it is recommended you wear gloves to reduce the risk of causing fisheyes in the paint. I also used a nylon pad to get any spots that were hard to reach.
Paint will not stick to shiny spots.
Step 3 Sealer:
Thoroughly clean the bumper with a prep spray or diluted rubbing alcohol. Your bumper may need filler from rock chips. This work must be done before sealer but I am not going to explain it now. Once the bumper is thoroughly clean, open a tack rag. Fully open the rag and set it down on a clean surface. The rag needs a few minutes to air out so we will mix the sealer while we wait. Since I am painting a bumper I need to add flex additive.
Never mix into your paint gun cup. Always mix and then filter the paint into your gun. This is true for anything you want to spray.
Your paint manufacture will have tech sheets on how to mix the paint and times to wait. Do not deviate from these.
Also it is best to use the same paint manufacture throughout.
Now you can tack your parts. Ball the tack rag up and lightly wipe the parts. Do not press on the parts because the rag may leave a residue. You can now spray the parts. I am using PPG K36 sealer. This sealer is applied with one wet coat. After this is done you must clean the gun. The sealer needs at least 2 hours before using the basecoat I have chosen.
Step 4 Basecoat:
Once the sealer has had the proper cure time you can get ready to spray the base. You can open a new tack rag at this point or use the one you already have open. Mix your paint, tack, and then shoot. I used PPG DBU Basecoat. No flex additive is needed with this basecoat. I shoot 3 medium-wet coats of base. Once again clean your gun and wait the proper time before shooting clear.
Step 5 Clearcoat:
Clear goes down the same way as the others. I used PPG Concept2021. You need to add flexadittive to the clear. Mix, tack, shoot. I shoot 2 coats wet. I do not plan to wetsand the bumper and will just buff it. If I was shooting the body I would do 3 or 4 so I would be able to wetsand.
Now your done. Step back and admire your work. It's been earned.
Tools and Equipment Used So Far:
Air compressor, DA Sander, Rubbing Alcohol, Dish Washing Soap, 320 Grit Sandpaper, 400 Grit Sandpaper, Nylon Pad, Paint Gun with Proper Fluid Tip, Air Respirator, Air Machine, Mixing Cups, Filters, Gun Filter, Stir Sticks, 3m Cup and Bag
Bumper Holders:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/bb0c99cd.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Cleaned Before Sanding:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/edc9513f.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/f970896c.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Bumper sanded with 320:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/8233eaa9.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Bumper After Sealer:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/e99a5ad1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/fd4bc389.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Bumper After Base:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/d0e1d72c.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Bumper After Clear:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/89e5bc0c.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/f41bcaa2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/14ad8452.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/7f4be5d6.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/97b42727.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Tools:
DA Sander
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/54cd9692.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Air Machine:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/5d478c96.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/e957a7d8.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Air Filter:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/273b774d.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
I also run a disposable one at the gun.
Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for any damage done to your car or yourself.
Safety First:
A respirator is always recommended when sanding, painting, or mixing paints. Also wearing gloves is recommended for painting, mixing paints, and stages of sanding. I prefer to use an air system when painting. Better safe then sorry.
Paint:
I prefer to use PPG products. In this and all my writeups I will go by their specifications. I am using their Deltron paint line throughout.
Here is how to repaint a stock front bumper in good condition. I did no filler repairs to this bumper because it is only going to be a winter one.
Step 1 Cleaning:
Before beginning to sand anything wash the surface thoroughly with water and a dish washing soap. I have found the simplest soaps to be the best. One's with foaming actions or degreasing action tend to leave a residue. Once dry wipe down the surface with a prep spray or diluted rubbing alcohol. This is done to remove dirt, grease, and wax from the surface. If not done you risk sanding the containments into the paint and getting fisheyes as well as other problems with your paint.
Step 2 Sanding:
Now you can begin sanding. What you plan to do will determine what grit to use. I am going to scuff this bumper and then spray over the existing paint. To scuff the bumper I used 320 grit sandpaper. I used a da sander to get as much as I can reach. I then sanded the rest of the bumper by hand with 320. I am not going to be priming this bumper. The sealer I am going to be using is PPG K36. You can use from 320-400 girt dry sandpaper, or 600 grit wet. After sanding with 320 I cleaned the bumper with a prep spray and then sanded it with 400. This allowed me to see any spots I missed. When on the final stage of sanding it is recommended you wear gloves to reduce the risk of causing fisheyes in the paint. I also used a nylon pad to get any spots that were hard to reach.
Paint will not stick to shiny spots.
Step 3 Sealer:
Thoroughly clean the bumper with a prep spray or diluted rubbing alcohol. Your bumper may need filler from rock chips. This work must be done before sealer but I am not going to explain it now. Once the bumper is thoroughly clean, open a tack rag. Fully open the rag and set it down on a clean surface. The rag needs a few minutes to air out so we will mix the sealer while we wait. Since I am painting a bumper I need to add flex additive.
Never mix into your paint gun cup. Always mix and then filter the paint into your gun. This is true for anything you want to spray.
Your paint manufacture will have tech sheets on how to mix the paint and times to wait. Do not deviate from these.
Also it is best to use the same paint manufacture throughout.
Now you can tack your parts. Ball the tack rag up and lightly wipe the parts. Do not press on the parts because the rag may leave a residue. You can now spray the parts. I am using PPG K36 sealer. This sealer is applied with one wet coat. After this is done you must clean the gun. The sealer needs at least 2 hours before using the basecoat I have chosen.
Step 4 Basecoat:
Once the sealer has had the proper cure time you can get ready to spray the base. You can open a new tack rag at this point or use the one you already have open. Mix your paint, tack, and then shoot. I used PPG DBU Basecoat. No flex additive is needed with this basecoat. I shoot 3 medium-wet coats of base. Once again clean your gun and wait the proper time before shooting clear.
Step 5 Clearcoat:
Clear goes down the same way as the others. I used PPG Concept2021. You need to add flexadittive to the clear. Mix, tack, shoot. I shoot 2 coats wet. I do not plan to wetsand the bumper and will just buff it. If I was shooting the body I would do 3 or 4 so I would be able to wetsand.
Now your done. Step back and admire your work. It's been earned.
Tools and Equipment Used So Far:
Air compressor, DA Sander, Rubbing Alcohol, Dish Washing Soap, 320 Grit Sandpaper, 400 Grit Sandpaper, Nylon Pad, Paint Gun with Proper Fluid Tip, Air Respirator, Air Machine, Mixing Cups, Filters, Gun Filter, Stir Sticks, 3m Cup and Bag
Bumper Holders:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/hampp2/bb0c99cd.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Cleaned Before Sanding:
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Bumper sanded with 320:
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Bumper After Sealer:
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Bumper After Base:
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Bumper After Clear:
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Tools:
DA Sander
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Air Machine:
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Air Filter:
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I also run a disposable one at the gun.
08-07-2006, 11:27 AM
#469
Keeper of the Cash
Heated seat repair
<center><img src="http://passat-b5.ru/remont/sid/image006.jpg"></center><p><ul><li><a href="http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl_pagecontent?lp=ru_en&trurl=http%3a%2f%2f passat-b5.ru%2findex.php%3foption%3dcom_content%26task%3d view%26id%3d65%26Itemid%3d57">Heated seat repair (Russian, translated)</a></li></ul>
08-09-2006, 08:11 AM
#470
AudiWorld Super User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,799
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Some other charge system troubleshooting tips.
Your dash volt meter should be a little over 14 when the car is started.
You alternator should be giving your battery around 13.8-14.4 volts you can test that with the car started with one end on the large terminal of the alternator and the other to a ground. If that is at around 13.8-14.4 you alternator is fine. If not its dead.
You can also do a voltage drop test on the cable going from the battery + to the alternator by putting the positive multimeter lead on the larger alternator terminal and the negative multimeter lead the positive battery terminal. The voltage listed will be the amount of voltage you are loosing from one end of the cable to the other. you want to see 0 ideally but less then .4 is acceptable. More then that means your cable is bad.
You also want to check the voltage regulator which is the smaller cable on the alternator, with the car started put a volt meter on it and you should be seeing 14.4, if the voltage regulator isnt getting power the alternator cant regulate the power.
You can also check the positive and negative wires for their resistance. You should see less then one ohm resistance on both, .5ohm is acceptable. This can be done buy setting the multimeter to ohms and putting the positive lead on one end of the cable and the negative on the other.
To test the battery you need a full charge, the easiest way to do that is take it to your local autoparts store. To check the rest of the charge system use the steps above. The tests the autoparts stores do on your alternator are insufficient.
--dillon
You alternator should be giving your battery around 13.8-14.4 volts you can test that with the car started with one end on the large terminal of the alternator and the other to a ground. If that is at around 13.8-14.4 you alternator is fine. If not its dead.
You can also do a voltage drop test on the cable going from the battery + to the alternator by putting the positive multimeter lead on the larger alternator terminal and the negative multimeter lead the positive battery terminal. The voltage listed will be the amount of voltage you are loosing from one end of the cable to the other. you want to see 0 ideally but less then .4 is acceptable. More then that means your cable is bad.
You also want to check the voltage regulator which is the smaller cable on the alternator, with the car started put a volt meter on it and you should be seeing 14.4, if the voltage regulator isnt getting power the alternator cant regulate the power.
You can also check the positive and negative wires for their resistance. You should see less then one ohm resistance on both, .5ohm is acceptable. This can be done buy setting the multimeter to ohms and putting the positive lead on one end of the cable and the negative on the other.
To test the battery you need a full charge, the easiest way to do that is take it to your local autoparts store. To check the rest of the charge system use the steps above. The tests the autoparts stores do on your alternator are insufficient.
--dillon
