allroad'n

i dont have much knowledge about your issue. but i did do my timing belt/vc gasket 4-5 months ago. is it possible that you forgot to connect something in the turbo/exhaust side of things. it seems to me like it could be a leak somewhere? just by the sound

acarney

That's what I'm trying my hardest to think about. I totally am thinking it's an issue now with a leak of some sort.

Here's what's been going on...

Buttoned everything up, drove it around today for about 20 min. HORRIBLE like lawn mower sounding everytime I got on the gas even a little. (Like residential speeds away from a stop sign). Oil is up to temp and at idle I'm pretty much solid at 700rpm with basically no bouncy around (maybe +\- 10rpm or something).

NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. That has me confused, if it was bad timing, or a spark plug/coil that went out while I was reinstalling the stuff, shouldn't that produce a check engine light by now?

When in the garage it for sure sounds like it's coming from the rear passenger part of the engine, but you know how sounds are...

I'm trying to think of what parts were removed or loosened when doing this job that might have caused this issue.

Would intake manifold cause a sound like this? I put new gaskets in when I bolted it back down but maybe the gasket didn't seal well. Wouldn't I get a check engine light?

I reattached the top Y pipe to the air box and made sure both pipes that ran down each side of the front of the engine when in to their respective connections. There wasn't any hose clamps or anything on those. Should I have created some kind of seal with grease or something before putting those on? I don't recall getting under the car on the passenger side to disconnect any pipes, the drivers side turbo pipe was connected again to the intercooler.

I connected the vent hose up exactly how I took the old one out and fought forever with it until each plastic hose mount "clicked". I took off the plastic pipe that runs to each combi valve and the secondary air pump but connected that all back in all three places making sure it clicked. I listened the passenger side combi valve A LOT to get the valve cover off, but I loosened the three hex bolts on its "arm" that connect to the back lower part of the valve cover, there isn't any plumbing or gaskets there, are there?

I just can't think of any other piping that I would have removed.

Like I said I did drop a hex key and a hex socket down somewhere into what I think is the exhaust manifold/down pipes? Way way behind the engine and a good 8 inchs or more down. Those pipes wouldn't have been brittle enough for a little socket bit to punch a hole in then, would they? (And if so, we're talking $1,000+ to repair anything in that area, right? Wouldn't engine need to come out?)

This is so incredibly frustrating. I want to be happy and proud that I actually completed the valve cover and timing belt job. Fixed all my oil leaks and coolant leaks. But man, with this new issue I'm just super depressed. Plus the car still isn't drivable. (No way am I taking my wonderful Audi out sounding like a lawn mower!)

acarney

Could it be the combi valve?! I thought the only place air/gas of some sort could get in was the vent hose and the little rubber hose that kinda spins from the top part of the valve to the bottom side, that like 2 inch long hose.

If there is a gasket or channel down along the arm that bolts to the back bottom of the valve cover then that could TOTALLY be it. For one I didn't torque the crap out of them because I think it was just a mount and I had such a hell of a time getting it lose to "push" enough out of the way to get the valve cover off. Second, while I didn't remove the arm completely I DID remove the first bolt (if you're standing at the passenger side of the car leaning into the engine bay the bolt CLOSEST to you) and loosened the other two 3/4 of the way maybe...

Does that area have a gasket? Is there a part number for it? Maybe just MAYBE my dealer actually would have that in stock instead of a 3 day wait...

acarney

So I torqued a little more on the three combi valve 5mm hex bolts and it seemed to quiet the sound some. I probably could drive now without being embarrassed BUT, it for sure sounds like a diesel still or some Chevy truck "modified" to sound louder. Not pretty, doesn't hum, etc.

I'm worried about torquing them any more because the only ratchet I could get down there is like a 3 inch one... So of course I can't apply much force with that little guy...

The only other new but of info is that I know why I didn't notice it in the garage as much. In park and neutral the sound is almost totally gone, still there if you have the good open though. BUT, as soon as you shift to R or Drive BANG, gurgling/farting sound even at idle and only worse when on the throttle AT ALL.

I'm hesitant to take the combi valve off all the way and see if there used to be a gasket just because it's a HUGE pain to get to those bolts let along try to align them into their respective holes. Anyone thing it could be anything else? Anyone have suggestions? Part numbers for the gasket? And for the bolts so I can order a couple extra since I know if I have to remove that thing I'll be dropping at least a few bolts.

No check engine light yet either and it's been started at least a dozen times and driven for 20 minutes or so and probably combined an hour of idle.

Almost feel like calling the game and taking it to the dealer, but I don't want to admit that I failed and couldn't get back to how it was before without their help. Plus I don't feel like forking over money if it IS that I just need a $6 gasket or something. What should I do guys?

jseklund

This was my first guess listening to the video. Did you get the gasket in correctly? Make sure it is tightened down well. If you pull that off and run the engine, exhaust gas puffs out of the hole in a rhythmic pattern. You may have to take it off and make sure the gasket is on correctly.

Those valves are a PITA. They are so annoying.

jseklund

You should spend the $10 and get the tool I mentioned, it makes things much much easier on the combi valve. You don't need to torque the hell out of it, but it does need to be tight. There is a gasket that is near impossible to get on there in between the head and the arm. If you left two screws in and only removed one, then the gasket can't move, but if you removed 2 and loosened 1, the gasket could have swung down out of the way and not be in position anymore.

It makes a puffing, exhaust type noise. You can maybe get a rubber hose, put one end in your ear, and the other end down near the valve around where it mounts to the head and see if it is louder...

Airbag

1. Thats an exhaust leak sound
2. Never start an egine until you have recoverd all tools and fasteners.


If you had the combi loose for any reason I am betting that its not on square with the gasket. Bite the bullet . Take it off and redo it with the recommended tool .

you think the combi is bad ? change the alternator .. going back to the combi valve will seem like a piece of cake

acarney

I can't seem to find that tool anywhere local. Do you happen to know of a part number or anything for a tool like that from Home Depot or Loews or a big national store like that?

I did get the same TYPE of tool but it's only about 3 to 4 inch long, so not much torque transfer and a little tricky to hold since I still have to stuff my hand down there instead of having a longer arm that allows me to just thread the head of the tool down. Still about 1,000 times easier but man I would love to find one local with like a 8 inch long handle or something. Like standard ratchet sized, not "micro ratchet."

acarney

I didn't even know that part had a gasket, lol. I didn't take the combi off completely but did remove at least one bolt fully and really loosened the others a lot (May have removed two though, can't remember).

It's in such a horrible position that I couldn't even visually look back to see if it was seated properly just did it by feel. Fixing this issue today if I can get a gasket from my dealer. Do you happen to have a part number for the passenger side gasket that connects the arm to the engine? I can only find the little oval looking gasket that goes on the top of the arm between the bell part of the combi valve and mounting arm.

I finally had a check engine light come on today. Would this exhaust leak from the combi cause that, or might I still have an additional problem with timing or something?

Airbag

this is one of those times where you sacrifice tools to make a one use tool you need . have something welded to the end to make it longer if you need.
I just dont think it is on square.