1974gt4

Greetings keeper of Audi Knowledge.

I just picked up a 1994 Cab with 93k showing on the clock. Good paint a couple of dings but a very presentable 10 footer.

Needs a few things and drives ok... The v6 is a dream of an engine.
This car has a 5 speed trans mission which is why I decided to buy it.

Off to the Independent Audi fella here in Virginia with my list of observations and prioritization.

Anyone know the cause of a leaky roof hydraulic motor/reservoir? Does the oring fail? It's oily in the spare tire space.

Thanks

Rusty Spokes

8G0 898 101. This should comprise of the following two part numbers
8G0 898 102
8G0 871 791 E

which are

oil container x 1
round seal x 1
screw x 4
washer x 4

About $70

Be prepared to remove the rear bumper and move the pump to install the repair kit

1974gt4

thanks Rusty Spokes !

Huge help
thank you

1974gt4

Do Audi Radio's have a theft code and if so can they be gotten from AUDI, if so at what cost?

I would kine to replace the non-factory unit with a used factory radio…but am leery of having a place holder that doesn't make tunes….

1974gt4

wow, Quote from Hampton Va Audi

8G0 898 102---$2999.99

8G0871 791 E -$2200.00

InnocentGuns

seems like it might be off a decimal place?

hubturn

No error in cost. Audi wants $2400 for a pump motor assembly. If you have oil in the trunk, smell it. It is a mineral oil, identical to what you put in the power steering. After removing the spare tire and all the trunk trim, look through the holes in the framing to see if the fluid level is low. You might need a mirror. There is a fill plug on the side (impossible to use) and one on the top, under the metal shield. Fill it up. The top motor self bleeds the air out. Then operate the top and see if it leaks. There have been cases of a cracked reservoir that leaks, or the o-ring leaking. I believe the plastic reservoir& O-ring is still available at Audi. You will have to pull the assembly to replace that. You do not need to remove the bumper. There are three nuts at the front of the pump assembly attached to a frame piece. It's a B$%^&, but they will come off. At the rear of the pump is one nut. You will think you can remove it from where you can see it, but that will not work, unless you have a very thin walled ratcheting box wrench. In the body directly aft of that nut is a rubber plug. Push it out. You will be able to insert a deep socket through the hole and use a rachet between the bumper and the body. All of these nuts are the squeezed locknut variety. They will not spin off when loose. You have to turn them all the way with the wrench. Additionally, there is wiring that has to be removed. You may have to slide a thin tool into the connector to free up one of the wires to get this apart. The hydraulic lines pull out after removing the attach screws. Now the real story. The prior owner spilled the fluid in the trunk trying to fill it. The problem is not a leak, which you will discover when you check the fill lines on the reservoir. The problem with the top is the trunk wiring, which is usually the problem 95% of the time. I'm the only poster I know that had a electric motor problem, and there have only been one or two reservoir failures. Everybody else - wiring problem. Search the forum and that is what you will find. Let us know. These pictures are of my backup motor.