blinking oil light
#1
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blinking oil light
so I went a little over the recommended 3,000 miles for my oil change, and now whenever I start my car I get a blinking OIL light on my tripometer. Is there some special way to reset it?
#2
Ignore it until you get your hands on a VAG-COM... when you do, check Ross-Tech's how-to...
You have to run adaptation on the cluster module to reset it. I reset all of those In1/2 and OIL reminders to ridiculously high values because they're a PITA more than anything at this point.
#4
3000 mi? With a V6, you can go 5k-6k easy on plain oil or 2x that on synth.Are you using 40 weight?
10w-40 Hi-miles oil is the special sauce. MaxLife or GTX HM. If you have a turbo, you should read up and act soon.
#5
Yeah, I think I'm wasting money too. I'm changing out my Syntec 5w40 every 3500mi or so...
What oil would you recommend? I thought Syntec was fine on my high-mileage 30v and I'm of the "better safe than sorry" mentality. Why risk a poor oil quality with a higher interval?
#6
There's no such thing as poor quality oil.API SM spec basicly makes dino oil as good as synth....
$2 SM dino is as good as synth of just a few years ago. Synth oil adds better cold properties and allows longer change intervals. At normal intervals of 5000-6000 miles, dino actually produces lower wear. Look at Mobils line of 5000, 7500 miles oils. 10w-40 dino is good to about zero f and runs out to 6000 miles. 10w-40 blend or Hi-Mi is even better and is basicly perfect for Audi V6. fwiw, many cars have a olm, oil life monitor that calcultes the important things like cold starts, short trips and rpms etc. My Honda olm goes 8000 miles on dino,. I have seen good lab reports out to 10k on dino in Hondas, which are easy on oil. Honestly, 10w-40 HM, but not at miles intervals, but TIMED intervals of 3-4-6 months. Always have fresh oil in for winter and you are good. 5w-40 synth is fine for winters, but Syntec is kind of crap...the only 5w-40 that I don't like. Gotta go, but let me know if you have any questions.
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#8
btw- here's pic of inside Audi V6 after 122k of 10k intervals...
Syntec 5w-50, a pretty good formula, but heavy and puts drag on the engine. All changes were 10k Syntec up to 122k.
<a href="http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/bitog/?action=view¤t=122k_miles.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/bitog/122k_miles.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/bitog/?action=view¤t=122k_miles.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/bitog/122k_miles.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
#9
Hmm, that looks clean to me :) So what's ideal. I just changed my oil and thought...
5w40 Syntec was fine...
What would you recommend for a high mileage 30V? I'm open to suggestions. I also don't mind changing oil more often if it means less chance for sludge and excess wear (usually do it myself.)
Just wanna pick out an oil and stick with it. There are plenty choices in Toronto. A local indie shop filled me up with Motul 8100 last time (5w40).. the only difference I personally notice is the chain tensioner rattles much more often on startup with this oil.
What would you recommend for a high mileage 30V? I'm open to suggestions. I also don't mind changing oil more often if it means less chance for sludge and excess wear (usually do it myself.)
Just wanna pick out an oil and stick with it. There are plenty choices in Toronto. A local indie shop filled me up with Motul 8100 last time (5w40).. the only difference I personally notice is the chain tensioner rattles much more often on startup with this oil.
#10
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Re: Ignore it until you get your hands on a VAG-COM... when you do, check Ross-Tech's how-to...
what do you think the dealer would charge to reset it?