Trunk lock cylinder rehab or swap.
01-14-2009, 08:37 PM
#1
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Trunk lock cylinder rehab or swap.
I replaced my trunk lock because the aluminum arm that gets depressed when you push the chrome button had broken. You can just swap in a used or new lock if you don't care about ever using your key in there. But I wanted to be able to use mine. The only parts that are unique to your key are the pins inside lock cylinder, which is removable from the lock itself.
This is a small write up to rehab a seized up lock or swap the cylinder into a replacement lock. For a swap you just need the old and new locks and some Lithium Grease. For a rehab you need Lithium Grease, a steel or brass brush (Dremel works well) and possibly some BP Blaster.
-First remove the lock from the trunk lid: With the trunk open, remove the trunk lid liner. 5 or 7 stainless screws and then pull the bottom out first to release the tabs at the top (if you still have them). Then disconnect the two metal arms that are connected to the lock by releasing the white clips on each of them. They turn to release. One has a convenient tab to help, the other does not. Next disconnect the wire for the lock sensors. Lastly there are 2 8mm nuts holding the lock down, remove them and pull the lock out.
-Next, remove the lock cylinder from the lock: Remove the "Jesus Clip", it sits in a recess so you may have to slide a knife or very small flat head screw driver under it as you pry it off.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3095/3197647419_2ac8bf3f44_b.jpg">
Then pull the black plastic cap up and off.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3102/3197647789_cd9f80f36c_b.jpg">
Then push the lock cylinder out by pushing on the shaft that the "Jesus Clip" was on. If you are rehabbing a lock you my have to beat on this. The spring and small metal piece should stay where they are. If not, just set them aside.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3095/3198494000_5a11e46678_b.jpg">
Now you have the lock cylinder out.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3090/3197648443_55fc1e93d4_b.jpg">
At this point if you are JUST swapping the cylinder from your lock into a new lock, you can carefully (without removing any of the pins) clean the old grease off and apply some new Lithium Grease and reassemble (some steps below on that). If it is really gummy or corroded continue on below for the rehab.
With the cylinder out, clean off all the old grease carefully with out removing any pins.
When removing the pins, they MUST go EXACTLY where they come out of. Other wise your lock will not work and it will take a LOT of time or a locksmith to get it back in key.
Each pin can only be removed from one side or the other, not both. On this cylinder 5 get removed from one side and 2 from the other.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3108/3197730785_8889e7e0b5_b.jpg">
They are removed on the side they protrude from and are removed by pulling them out.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3312/3198495612_5c511096bb_b.jpg">
If they are seized in, you can try soaking them in PB Blaster and you can also push them out from the opposite side with a small flat head screw driver.
I would recommend doing them one at a time so you do not mix them up. If you realize the actual cylinder is corroded badly, you can swap the pins in to a new or used cylinder BUT they MUST go in the the same positions they are removed from.
Once you get a pin out you can either lube it up with Lithium Grease and put it back in, if it looks and moves well. OR if it has corrosion on it you can hold it with some pliers and take a metal brush or Dremel to it, being careful not to bend the pins. Then grease it and put it back in.
When you are satisfied that they are all moving freely and well greased, you can put the cylinder back in the lock. It would also be a good idea to either coat the whole cylinder in grease or apply some to the inside of the lock...or both. They grease keeps out the water which prevets freezing. There is no heater on this lock.
The lock has two channels for the pins to travel in.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3087/3197650081_a739168227_b.jpg">
The cylinder has a groove in one side of it and that should be somewhat inline with the hinge when inserting the cylinder.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3532/3198657728_34422dd4ac_b.jpg">
Once inserted, if the spring and little metal piece came out earlier, put them back in first, then put the black cap back on so that the tab is under the hinged arm.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3453/3197650551_044046ecb8_b.jpg">
Install the Jesus Clip and try your key. If all is good, reinstall in the trunk in reverse from removal.
NOTE: Key operation has four positions. 1 is with the key in at an unlocked state with the trunk NOT in valet mode. 2 is a momentary turn counter clockwise, this will unlock the trunk and all other doors. 3 is a momentary turn clockwise, this will lock the trunk and all other doors. 4 is a full 90 degree turn clock wise, this will lock the trunk and all other doors and leave the trunk in valet mode so that it can not be unlocked with the valet key or the power locks.
This is a small write up to rehab a seized up lock or swap the cylinder into a replacement lock. For a swap you just need the old and new locks and some Lithium Grease. For a rehab you need Lithium Grease, a steel or brass brush (Dremel works well) and possibly some BP Blaster.
-First remove the lock from the trunk lid: With the trunk open, remove the trunk lid liner. 5 or 7 stainless screws and then pull the bottom out first to release the tabs at the top (if you still have them). Then disconnect the two metal arms that are connected to the lock by releasing the white clips on each of them. They turn to release. One has a convenient tab to help, the other does not. Next disconnect the wire for the lock sensors. Lastly there are 2 8mm nuts holding the lock down, remove them and pull the lock out.
-Next, remove the lock cylinder from the lock: Remove the "Jesus Clip", it sits in a recess so you may have to slide a knife or very small flat head screw driver under it as you pry it off.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3095/3197647419_2ac8bf3f44_b.jpg">
Then pull the black plastic cap up and off.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3102/3197647789_cd9f80f36c_b.jpg">
Then push the lock cylinder out by pushing on the shaft that the "Jesus Clip" was on. If you are rehabbing a lock you my have to beat on this. The spring and small metal piece should stay where they are. If not, just set them aside.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3095/3198494000_5a11e46678_b.jpg">
Now you have the lock cylinder out.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3090/3197648443_55fc1e93d4_b.jpg">
At this point if you are JUST swapping the cylinder from your lock into a new lock, you can carefully (without removing any of the pins) clean the old grease off and apply some new Lithium Grease and reassemble (some steps below on that). If it is really gummy or corroded continue on below for the rehab.
With the cylinder out, clean off all the old grease carefully with out removing any pins.
When removing the pins, they MUST go EXACTLY where they come out of. Other wise your lock will not work and it will take a LOT of time or a locksmith to get it back in key.
Each pin can only be removed from one side or the other, not both. On this cylinder 5 get removed from one side and 2 from the other.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3108/3197730785_8889e7e0b5_b.jpg">
They are removed on the side they protrude from and are removed by pulling them out.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3312/3198495612_5c511096bb_b.jpg">
If they are seized in, you can try soaking them in PB Blaster and you can also push them out from the opposite side with a small flat head screw driver.
I would recommend doing them one at a time so you do not mix them up. If you realize the actual cylinder is corroded badly, you can swap the pins in to a new or used cylinder BUT they MUST go in the the same positions they are removed from.
Once you get a pin out you can either lube it up with Lithium Grease and put it back in, if it looks and moves well. OR if it has corrosion on it you can hold it with some pliers and take a metal brush or Dremel to it, being careful not to bend the pins. Then grease it and put it back in.
When you are satisfied that they are all moving freely and well greased, you can put the cylinder back in the lock. It would also be a good idea to either coat the whole cylinder in grease or apply some to the inside of the lock...or both. They grease keeps out the water which prevets freezing. There is no heater on this lock.
The lock has two channels for the pins to travel in.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3087/3197650081_a739168227_b.jpg">
The cylinder has a groove in one side of it and that should be somewhat inline with the hinge when inserting the cylinder.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3532/3198657728_34422dd4ac_b.jpg">
Once inserted, if the spring and little metal piece came out earlier, put them back in first, then put the black cap back on so that the tab is under the hinged arm.
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3453/3197650551_044046ecb8_b.jpg">
Install the Jesus Clip and try your key. If all is good, reinstall in the trunk in reverse from removal.
NOTE: Key operation has four positions. 1 is with the key in at an unlocked state with the trunk NOT in valet mode. 2 is a momentary turn counter clockwise, this will unlock the trunk and all other doors. 3 is a momentary turn clockwise, this will lock the trunk and all other doors. 4 is a full 90 degree turn clock wise, this will lock the trunk and all other doors and leave the trunk in valet mode so that it can not be unlocked with the valet key or the power locks.
01-15-2009, 04:13 AM
#4
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Now that I think of it, I have never used that button once...
It's so simple to open the trunk when you're standing there by pressing the lock cylinder. The button in the glove box is not only less than convenient, it is borderline superfluous.
Now this Chevy Crapalier I drove once... no interior trunk release...no button... I had to take the key out of the ignition, which meant turning off a running car, and open the trunk with the key... what a piece of crap.
Now this Chevy Crapalier I drove once... no interior trunk release...no button... I had to take the key out of the ignition, which meant turning off a running car, and open the trunk with the key... what a piece of crap.
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01-15-2009, 06:55 AM
#10
Re: Trunk lock cylinder rehab or swap.
Just to add my experiences, do NEVER heat the cylinder lock parts or be advised you will have to file the parts for a long time. Mine was REALLY stuck (key could not enter the lock nor turn it) and I had to heat the inner lock but since it is Chrome coated, it expanded at the point that I needed to file both in and out of the part. Took more than an hour to get the inner lock to fit back in this "now not chromed" part.